RoudyRick

The clutch disk will stay aligned with the pressure plate but you will need to align the input shaft with the disk

TJefferson2020

Which means getting the angle just right. So half the battle....

RoudyRick

It's really not that difficult, you just raise and lower the trans while applying pressure forward. The process hasn't changed since the 55 chevy

tbarb

When you install the clutch and linkage adjust BEFORE you install the transmission to make sure all the parts are correct and the linkage geometry is correct. You will not be the first person to have to remove again after all the hard work replacing the clutch. I had one that the pressure plate was not shimmed correctly and with free play it would not disengage properly. When no free play, the pedal travel was enough to drive the car so be careful.

If for some reason you have a problem aligning the transmission input shaft with the clutch splines have someone push the clutch pedal in and the disc will move to allow slight misalignment to correct.

ILBMF

Another thing is remove the shifter mounting plate that is bolted to the transmission. That will make going back in a lot easier.

Nowhere Man

Depends if he has a early or late 66

RoudyRick

That is misleading, you can't "shim" a pressure plate only adjust the throwout arm pivot ball.


Bad idea having someone push in the clutch to get the trans aligned with the disc. That's why you use an alignment tool before you tighten the pressure plate. pulling a shift arm is safer.

tbarb

This was a reconditioned pressure late, the shims I am talking about must have been used to effect height after turning the plate (inside the assembly) . The clutch was sent out again, rebuilt and came back fine and is in the car to this day.

You can depress the clutch to align the splines in the disc with the input shaft even after using a alignment tool it can make a stubborn assembly easier.

DansYellow66

I've had a lift for about 15 years and I recently used it to pull a transmission out of my GTX, but I always pulled the one out of the Corvette while parked on jack stands. It always seemed less likely I might lose control of it nosing it out of the bell housing register and have it fall on my foot. But one concession I've made is a little wooden skid that I lower the transmission on to during removal


I can lower the front on to the tall upright end of the skid - leaving the back hooked over the cross member - grab the tail and shove it forward and lower the tail on to the rear upright. Then just drag the whole thing out from under the car.

To replace I slide it under the car - lift the rear up and hook it over the cross member, lift the front up and slide it the rest of the way back and maneuver the input into the bell housing - pull it forward and hook it on the dowels in the top transmission mount holes and take a breather. This way I only have to lift one end or the other of the transmission at a time so basically I'm only lifting half it's weight.

RoudyRick

Very cleaver! I hope I don't need to pull my trans again for a LONG time. My days of doing that much work are fast slipping by

LT1driver

been there, done that and doing now at 66 due to leaking freeze plug behind flywheel...grrrr taking quite a bit longer this time