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I know there is a lot of information here but I am just trying to find out from fellow C2 owners on the best recommended option. I'm in the process of getting my 66 big block nom back on the road (bearing seized on last short trip) and I need to replace one hub and plan on replacing both front rotors. This is a driver car and it has the riveted hubs and thin enough rotors that they cannot be turned. Hub and rotor already assembled are 300+ shipping for one at Bairs and I still need to do the other side. I am reading that they do not need to be riveted so I am thinking it is best just to buy some rotors, shims off of summit racing in case there is runout and drill out the rivets on the hub that is still good and go from there. I have already sourced, purchased and installed the spindle for a 66 so jumping to a C3 setup would not be financially a good direction. Thoughts?? Any one recommend a brand of rotors that they love? Going to purchase a dial indicator now. Thanks in advance!
I have used the rotors that the local auto parts houses sell and not had a problem with them. Unless the customer wants 'vented/slotted' rotors I do not pay to have them shipped in. So I am NOT 'married' to a specific brand that I would jump up and down about and praise that you MUST buy them.
I know I would still stay with organic pads myself....for a street car. Buying these 'designer' brake pads are all well and good....and I do use them when the car is being put through much harsher driving. So...depending on how you drive or if you live in a flat area of the country or the mountains...the choice of brake pads can make a difference.
I am glad that you are going to use a dial indicator to index your rotors and get them as true as you can....or at least to specs.
Being of the old school and also old, I believe in matching the application to the driving habits. Organic is just the ticket for the normal street cruiser that is not abused.
Metallic will eat the rotors and flywheel in a clutch application, more than doubling the costs at the next maintenance interval, although organic may have a little less life, But cost less, you save money. If you are racing it, go metallic.
It is hard to find an honest man today. I think you may be one.
I have used the rotors that the local auto parts houses sell and not had a problem with them. Unless the customer wants 'vented/slotted' rotors I do not pay to have them shipped in. So I am NOT 'married' to a specific brand that I would jump up and down about and praise that you MUST buy them.
I know I would still stay with organic pads myself....for a street car. Buying these 'designer' brake pads are all well and good....and I do use them when the car is being put through much harsher driving. So...depending on how you drive or if you live in a flat area of the country or the mountains...the choice off brake pad can make a difference.
I am glad that you are going to use a dial indicator to index your rotors and get them as true as you can....or at least to specs.
DUB
Thanks for the response. That is what I was looking for. I have read that some taper the rotor and tap the hub for a bolt which would mean I would have to get that rotor setup. A local parts store rotor will have a 5 lug setup without the rivet holes but if other C2 drivers are running the setup without issues it sounds good to me. Also thanks for the organic pads. This will be a street car.
This is how I mounted my rotors after indexing them to get rotor run-out in limits. While this effort isn't necessary, it eliminates any chance of the rotor being re-positioned inadvertently... that and it just looks cool!
Thanks for the response. That is what I was looking for. I have read that some taper the rotor and tap the hub for a bolt which would mean I would have to get that rotor setup. A local parts store rotor will have a 5 lug setup without the rivet holes but if other C2 drivers are running the setup without issues it sounds good to me. Also thanks for the organic pads. This will be a street car.
By no means am I making 'fun' of what people choose to do. It is their car, their time and their money....BUT
A rotor that does NOT have the holes for the rivets will work just fine.....because...the rivets are NOT mandatory.
And if the discussion is raised that there rivets are needed.....the ONLY time I would see that be true is IF the wheel were to come loose and thus allow the rotor would NOT have play in it.....BUT....IF no screws or rivets were used...and if the wheel were to come loose...the driver should know what is going on and pull over and stop the car.
And if the driver is oblivious to what is going on and a wheel does come off....then either the rear leaf spring will dig into the pavement or the front rotor will contact the ground if the front wheel came off and the car would stop....because.... by this time the driver has sucked up about half of the seat bottom cushion in their backside and has laid on the brakes.
Being of the old school and also old, I believe in matching the application to the driving habits. Organic is just the ticket for the normal street cruiser that is not abused.
Metallic will eat the rotors and flywheel in a clutch application, more than doubling the costs at the next maintenance interval, although organic may have a little less life, But cost less, you save money. If you are racing it, go metallic.
It is hard to find an honest man today. I think you may be one.
Thanks...I may be often times misunderstood...but I do run my business with code of ethics I feel has worked well for me. "Honesty is the BEST policy"....is just one of many philosophies I follow.
02-22-2017, 02:33 PM
66 Brakes (yes another)
Dennis
Being of the old school and also old, I believe in matching the application to the driving habits. Organic is just the ticket for the normal street cruiser that is not abused. 
