rgwebb

Shouldn't the green battery quick disconnect **** be attached to the positive side of the battery? The 63 SW that I won has it attached to the black negative cable.

Second question - Does anyone know why a Sears Die Hard Battery Charger (75 Amp Start, 12 Amp fast charge, 2 Amp slow charge) will not even recognize the battery let alone charge it. I bought the battery at "BatteriesPlus +" and the sales slip says it is a "SLI 24-7". It also describes it as "12v 24 Auto X Taut Auto 07 SLI". It is brand new because I replaced the battery that was in the car when the above charger would not charge it. Now it won't charge this one either. I also in between batteries exchanged the charger at Sears in case it was a bad one. Still no luck.

RoadVettes

Green **** on negative battery post is correct.

Chuck Gongloff

Are you connecting the "green wheel" when you're hooking up the charger?

Also, the green wheel technically belongs on the NEG cable, BUT many, including myself put it on the POS cable side. You have to ream out the connection to make it fit. It's easier to reach that way.

I got rid of my green wheels...too many problems. Replaced them with "knife switch" style WIRTH CO disconnects. Chuck

Hitch

As Chuck said, It's easier to get to on the positive side and electronically it does not matter as an open is and open.... Chuck I thought it was just me but I had one of those green disconnects go bad on me.. I just replaced it but now you have me rethinking it.... Dave..

tuxedo

Those green **** are okay but the **** tends to loosen with vibration and the threads strip and wear out also. I've got a knife switch like Chuck on my car and boat and have no problems. The Knife,throw or Frankenstein switch is a solid simple old fashioned design that works great. Any side of the battery terminal will be fine for the **** or knife.

Chuck Gongloff

I've melted the plastic insulation on 2 green wheels, one on my 54, the other on my 63. If you have a "hard starting" car, you'll generate a lot of heat. NO PROBLEMS with the knife. Chuck

wjbritt

Anybody got a source on the knife switch? I just bought a "green ****" and was going to put it in when I do my battery swap

Chuck Gongloff

The J C Whitney catalog has them. There's a fellow who advertises in the NCRS Driveline who sells them too. Chuck

JWD01

I've been using the "Green Wheel" disconnects on my 2 collector cars for over 15 years and have never had a single problem. The nice thing about them is that you can take the **** completely out and that serves as an anti-theft feature.

rgwebb

I accept what you say, but I can't follow it technically. If the current from the positive side is seeking ground and gets to the negative terminal which is disconnected, everything is great. But if somewhere enroute there is a short, it doesn't have to get back to the battery negative terminal, it would just drain out at the short along the way. Where am I missing something?

rgwebb

Yes, I connect the battery by turning the green wheel clockwise before trying to charge it. I thought that was the procedure.

Cruzmeisters

Just went down to the garage to retrieve the knife switch - in it's package - that I bought 6 years ago to replace the "green-knobber" that's in the "Pink/Linc" (since 1992 & still working) when it wears out it's a #20138 TM-8 Top Mount Safety Switch manufactured by WirthCo Engineering, Inc. Minneapolis, Mn 55439.
Side terminal # is 20128 ST-9
Cruz

JohnZ

The reason for placing it on the negative terminal is to completely eliminate the ground potential (path back to the battery) from any part in the car; if you've ever dropped a wrench and had it touch both the positive battery terminal and an exhaust manifold, you'll know what I mean. If the ground path back to the battery is interrupted, you can touch the positive battery terminal (or that side of the switch) to anything on the car and it won't spark or create a short. If the switch is on the positive battery terminal, it stops current flow through the harness to all the loads, but you can still create a spark/dead short from the battery side of the switch to anything that's grounded, since the ground circuit is still complete.

Stick

If you want to use J.C. Whitney, from the internet, the top mount is under ZX733444R for $23.99.

Hitch

John I'm having a hard time following your explaination. Could you elaborate on this. If the either side of the battery is disconnected it should not be an issue. I don't understand... Dave..

Sky65

I had the "green ****" deal but I removed it. I was having intermitent starting problems caused by a poor connection at the ****. I just drive the car and the battery stays charged!

GaryS

I bought my knife blade off of the NCRS web site but now I see them in Advance Auto.

Back to the original post, you put them on the negative side. That way you can NEVER short to ground causing a short or a fire. It is a tight fit but the best way to go, imho.
Gary

JohnZ

With a switch installed, only the CABLE side of the circuit is disconnected; the battery terminal posts themselves (and the battery terminal side of the switch) are still connected to the battery. If the switch is on the positive cable, you can still dead-short from the positive battery terminal to ground, as the negative cable (which grounds everything in the car) is still in place. If the switch is placed on the negative battery terminal and disconnected, there is no ground potential anywhere in the car to create a short, and the only way to create a spark or a short is to short directly across the battery, from one terminal post to the other, which is unlikely (hard to do inadvertently).

Paul Borowski

I've had these "Green Wheels" on each of my C3s for over 10yrs and not a single problem. Maybe the "older ones" were better???

Paul L

The service life has been good for me. No problems.