Wuttin

Folks,

As a temp fix until I get a complete repaint, I used some rattle can laquer to paint the tops of my headlight assemblies. Looks pretty good but doesn't have the same lustre as the rest of the finish. I don't want to add any more paint (ie clearcoat), I just want to bring up the shine and smooth out the finish. Can this be done with just basic polishes and waxes? I have one of the little electric orbital poilshers if useful.

Thoughts?

Thanks, Steve

noonie

Scuff sand with 2000 grit wet until it is all dull and coumpound by hand, with a medium grit compound and then a glaze compound and then wax.

Save your orbital for swirl marks and waxing.

Alan 71

Hi Steve,
N's information is right on.
You can find polishing compounds in various coarseness. I use McGuire's, but there are many others. The McGuires has a little chart of products so you know which to buy and in what sequence they should be used .
Tape up the very edge of the doors because you'll polish through the paint there in a heartbeat!!!
Regards,
Alan

Wuttin

Excellent...thanks guys. It's on the short list

Wuttin

Hi Team,

Follow-up to my original post from last year.

So, the spray can black lacquer went on my headlight covers just fine and I was generally pleased. I let it dry uncovered for more than 72 hours...the weather was nice and dry with low humidity. Looked good.

Rain was forecast so I finally put my cover back on the car (Wolf, 4 layer...car is exiled to the driveway since I have no garage on my house).

Long story short, the pattern from the Wolf cover was transferred into the fresh-ish lacquer on the headlight covers. It's subtle, but noticeable and unacceptable. It's not just superficial like a decal, it actually made an impression in the paint and is a permanent texture a few microns deep. I was stunned/annoyed since the recommended dry/cure time was 24 hrs and I let it go a full 72 before even touching it. I just shook my head and decided to stop working and start driving.

New season, time to fix. I don't want to paint it again but will do so if it's my only out. I would like to try to cut and buff but have virtually no experience. Any suggestions? Will the 2000 grit wet sand and compounding method mentioned above do the trick?

If I repaint I will be using the Rustoleum foam brush method (aka the Low-Buck Special) just to put on a decent coat until total re-paint time.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Steve

mydejavooo

That's the problem that I have found with most rattle-can paints....they just don't get hard enough as there is no catalyst in there. They have to sit uncovered for a long, long time before they are unaffected by things like car covers. Sorry to hear about the hard work fouled by the cover!

Deja

jimvette999

If you have enough rattle-can paint on there that will work. Use a firm foam backer on your wetsanding, criss cross pattern and go slow. Check your progress with a squeegee. Soak your sand paper in water a half hour before you start, remember, the new paper will cut quicker when new.