TWINRAY

I decided to order a new radiator shrould instead of replacing the bubba cut out (which I did years back) on my original one and since it is on back order, I had some free time to work on other stuff. Figured now would be a good time to check out (and probably replace) the still functioning but original, heater core. I bought the seal kit and have to pull the dash anyway to install the vacumn hose kit, fix the non-functioning oil pressure gauge (been running an accessory Auto meter), & install the Autometer 5" tach in the original tach's spot. I must be missing a bolt holding this MF because I still can't get it out. I will attempt some more today. On another note, it appears from other posts that I have to drop the steering column to get the drivers side dash out - more cool fun.
Regards, Fred

Easy Mike

AC? If so, there are some studs under the hood which you have to piddle with.

TWINRAY

Thanks Mike,
Yes, it does have AC (lol). All I saw on the firewall side was one nut to come off. Maybe at lunch today, I'll pour me a couple of stiff screwdrivers (lite on the OJ) and try to find the right page on my Assembly manual and attempt it again. Of course, today won't be as much fun outside as yesterday (50 degrees) - temp is under 30.
Fred

Paul L

Did you get this nut?

TWINRAY

On my car there is the some sort of an AC box cover in that spot - maybe that has to come off to make other nuts visable?
Thanks for the hint, Fred

It might show up in this photo

Paul L

Here is another view. That stud should be outside the evaporator box.

On my 1974 I don't have that canister in that spot (for wiper door on a 1969?). I think if you peek below that canister you will find the stud.

Forget that silver switch. It is for the seatbelt interlock system and you won't have it. But if you look carefully you can see the stud just below. But a 1969 might be a different animal.

TWINRAY

Paul,
Oh, that other photo clears it up - I thought the stud was more to the left. I did only take one bolt off on the firewall side. I'm going out to tackle it now.
Hopefully my next report will contain a photo of the heater core
Regards, Fred

luisv

On my 77 there was also a nut that had to come off on the outside (passenger side) of the blower motor. If memory serves.

70BBvert

Look at the bright side, at least you don't have fenders in the way

Jim

Paul L

Any luck in getting the core out?

TWINRAY

Funny you should ask.

I just got in from it busting my *****. After managing to get all the other ductwork out, I'm (definately) left with this rivet (with a clip) holding it on.. There is nothing on the opposite (firewall) side - like a nut or something. I tried prying upward on the "clip" attached to the "rivet" but it didn't budge. What goes??

Fred



This is the "rivet" I am talking about



It is the top left on the heater box. The top right (which was nut/bolt) and the bottoms came off - and one on the firewall side for good measure.

I even Yesterday (at 27 degree weather outside and at 40 degrees in my outside shop heated by a Haylogen light and portable heater) got my DS dash out. I thought is was so cool they way they wrapped the odometer cable around the wiring harness. Do you think that was a major reason it didn't pull out. I had the rag joint allready disconnected so I just took the 2 bolts on the inside firewall and the 2 bolts under the steering column off and dropped it to the seat.

Paul L

Are you lifting UP first and then out?

TWINRAY

It's off. The "mystery" nut was holding a clamp which was holding 3 wires. I poked a wire thru the bottom nut location and measured (from inside) the distance upward - found the wire coming thru the firewall and measured the distance upward - and still couldn't believe it when I pryed the clip apart and moved the 3 wires. It's still invisable in my photo below. I have to see why the wiring created all that black gunk.



When you do get the heater box off, the the heater core is located inside. For those that have not done this task, you have to then remove the heater core from the box - not too big a deal (certainly if you've gotten this far) but you have to remove these 3 screws from the bracket to free the core. I thought mine wasn't coming apart because of adhesive/sealer but after prying and getting nowhere, started looking elsewhere and found out they had to come off too.



I'm going to buy a new core since this is 40+ years old, starting to discolor and weighs alot due to probably being plugged up.



It fought me all the way .



I sooner pull and replace a motor than do this job again

TWINRAY

Once I got the nut off, it pulled out without much sweat.

corvetteload

I had to pull my 427 to get the firewall box off. It had studs from the inside poking out and also one bolt from the engine side going into the interior.

Paul L

Congrats! It does feel good to get these nasty jobs done!

I don't know what those wires are. I don't have them on my 1974. That black substance may be the adhesive Goop. I use it from time-to-time and it works very well to hold things in place. It's not really a Bubba.

AdamMeh

I don't want to hijack this thread but I have a question about why there are two of the pull down vacuum switches? If someone could PM me with the answer so we don't jack this thread I would appreciate it.

Sorry to the OP for butting in here

Thanks,
Adam

corvetteload

Adam,
headlamps and wiper door, pull to open door to wipers, turn wipers on at the switch and when they are perpendicular to the car you stop them with the switch in between the vacuum pull downs, This allows changing of the blades.

AdamMeh

Thank you! No wonder I only have one on my '77

SD71VETTE

I feel your pain! I just finished pulling my heater core and evaporator box on my Big Block.

And yes it does make it easier to drop the column to get the driver side dash pad out.