Doorgunner's '68 Convertible Project
#2681
This has got to be a "first" for something like this.
Great work!
Great work!
#2682
Nam Labrat
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AMAZING progress Tony! When you get going, you REALLY move! and the work is tremendous! Man! Keep it up! I see a light at the end of the tunnel, and it ain't a freight train! Those sweet shiny bumpers will be on there in no time! Summer and cruising are coming! Now does that two week trip with the wife include a stop in Iowa? If so bring some boudin and crawfish! I can make a decent gumbo! And some gator tail while we are at it, especially since you got all that extra room in there!! Make it a good' un!
#2683
Pictures.. keep the pictures coming!
#2686
Le Mans Master
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2023 Restomod of the Year finalist
2020 C3 of the Year Winner - Modified
I like it-
Here's another idea- a trunk from a C5-
Here's another idea- a trunk from a C5-
#2687
Drifting
That trunk looks like a great idea, think you just blew DG's mind.
Post 2685 you should know Gunner would never transport weed.
It was specifically designed fo twenty kilos of baby powder.
Post 2685 you should know Gunner would never transport weed.
It was specifically designed fo twenty kilos of baby powder.
#2688
Nam Labrat
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That reminds me......I need to pick up some more film.
Gotta' wait 'til next year on the King Cake
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......so you're a Viet Nam Vet TOO! A military dufflebag stuffed full of Cambodian Red cost upwards of $10.00 back then------that's $10...NOT $100.00.............(makes one wonder what the War was really FOR!)....but I digress.
The C-5 trunk opens the wrong way.....even rookies know that
Besides....I'm trying to keep my basketcase resto-mod looking externally original (in case I ever drive past the NCRS Judging Booth).
Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd......the FDA has determined that baby powder causes lung cancer (seriously).
I need to pick up more fiberglassing supplies since it's time to fill in the exterior seam/joint today......will be back in a few hours
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh......so you're a Viet Nam Vet TOO! A military dufflebag stuffed full of Cambodian Red cost upwards of $10.00 back then------that's $10...NOT $100.00.............(makes one wonder what the War was really FOR!)....but I digress.
Besides....I'm trying to keep my basketcase resto-mod looking externally original (in case I ever drive past the NCRS Judging Booth).
Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnd......the FDA has determined that baby powder causes lung cancer (seriously).
I need to pick up more fiberglassing supplies since it's time to fill in the exterior seam/joint today......will be back in a few hours
Last edited by doorgunner; 02-13-2016 at 04:44 PM.
#2689
Instructor
Doorgunner,
Thanks for the awesome thread! Just finished reading from start (took me a couple weeks ) Will be following along from here on out. I hope I can do half as well as you on my '68 and I was fortunate to get mine with the correct front and rear in place. I can see I have lots to learn but hopefully with a little luck and hints/help from the forum she will be back together some day.
Keep up the great work. You
Thanks again,
Tod
Thanks for the awesome thread! Just finished reading from start (took me a couple weeks ) Will be following along from here on out. I hope I can do half as well as you on my '68 and I was fortunate to get mine with the correct front and rear in place. I can see I have lots to learn but hopefully with a little luck and hints/help from the forum she will be back together some day.
Keep up the great work. You
Thanks again,
Tod
#2690
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I should focus only on one section of the car at a time, but it doesn't happen that way
As for the fiberglass bonding work I am doing don't use my methods!
I have a couple pics of bonding the deck to the tail light clip.....I'm trying to be a little neater, if nothing else..........
The "mess" from the last few months...................
Painter's tape to prevent me from getting resin everywhere.........
Three layers of cloth for now....I will take a short straightedge and hold it perpendicular across the "gap" to see how much more I need to build up the groove that I ground into the two mating surfaces.......
Tomorrow I will even out the repair with 60 grit sandingdiscs then see how much more I need to build up the groove (I'll leave 1/16" for filling with the VPA Filler)
Last edited by doorgunner; 02-13-2016 at 04:40 PM.
#2691
Melting Slicks
#2692
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Andy Tuttle (02-14-2016)
#2693
Race Director
NOT meaning to throw a stick in the 'works'...due to not getting to your thread yesterday.
My MAIN FEAR when using CLOTH and laminating something that is on the exterior is the possible fabric texture and surface. Often times this is due to laminating in cloth seems to be easy..but the cloth can sometimes seem to take the resin when it actually is not FULLY saturated....unless you vacuum bag it...or use the special roller for cloth laminating.
I know you are planning on grinding it back and filling over it with VPA which should work out well. The VPA should stop any imprint from the cloth from surfacing.
But IF I applied a layer of cloth on the exterior..I would them cover it with a few layers of the mat...then grind it back and fill it with VPA.
I am be overly paranoid here....but I have seen what can happen.
Because this is the top surface...making sure you get the air out is SO IMPORTANT when laminating the outside now....unlike the underside.
DUB
My MAIN FEAR when using CLOTH and laminating something that is on the exterior is the possible fabric texture and surface. Often times this is due to laminating in cloth seems to be easy..but the cloth can sometimes seem to take the resin when it actually is not FULLY saturated....unless you vacuum bag it...or use the special roller for cloth laminating.
I know you are planning on grinding it back and filling over it with VPA which should work out well. The VPA should stop any imprint from the cloth from surfacing.
But IF I applied a layer of cloth on the exterior..I would them cover it with a few layers of the mat...then grind it back and fill it with VPA.
I am be overly paranoid here....but I have seen what can happen.
Because this is the top surface...making sure you get the air out is SO IMPORTANT when laminating the outside now....unlike the underside.
DUB
#2694
Nam Labrat
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NOT meaning to throw a stick in the 'works'...due to not getting to your thread yesterday.
My MAIN FEAR when using CLOTH and laminating something that is on the exterior is the possible fabric texture and surface. Often times this is due to laminating in cloth seems to be easy..but the cloth can sometimes seem to take the resin when it actually is not FULLY saturated....unless you vacuum bag it...or use the special roller for cloth laminating.
I know you are planning on grinding it back and filling over it with VPA which should work out well. The VPA should stop any imprint from the cloth from surfacing.
But IF I applied a layer of cloth on the exterior..I would them cover it with a few layers of the mat...then grind it back and fill it with VPA.
I am be overly paranoid here....but I have seen what can happen.
Because this is the top surface...making sure you get the air out is SO IMPORTANT when laminating the outside now....unlike the underside.
DUB
My MAIN FEAR when using CLOTH and laminating something that is on the exterior is the possible fabric texture and surface. Often times this is due to laminating in cloth seems to be easy..but the cloth can sometimes seem to take the resin when it actually is not FULLY saturated....unless you vacuum bag it...or use the special roller for cloth laminating.
I know you are planning on grinding it back and filling over it with VPA which should work out well. The VPA should stop any imprint from the cloth from surfacing.
But IF I applied a layer of cloth on the exterior..I would them cover it with a few layers of the mat...then grind it back and fill it with VPA.
I am be overly paranoid here....but I have seen what can happen.
Because this is the top surface...making sure you get the air out is SO IMPORTANT when laminating the outside now....unlike the underside.
DUB
I'll definite do as you say....right now there is a 1/8" "valley"....would it be a good thing to start laying the mat now?
#2695
Race Director
DUB
#2696
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YES. Grind and prep what you have applied and add some mat and resin....AND make sure that ANY resin you are applying is going on prepped body and NOT going on top of PAINT.....UNLESS you know that is is on paint and you plan on grinding it off the paint. MAIN THING...applying resin on paint and primer is a BAD THING.
DUB
DUB
Now I need to do as you said and stay bubble-free.
#2697
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DG
When is your project going to be put on the New Orleans tourist bus stop! You could also open up a King Cake stand in the driveway for gas money!
Tom
When is your project going to be put on the New Orleans tourist bus stop! You could also open up a King Cake stand in the driveway for gas money!
Tom
Last edited by Tom69; 02-14-2016 at 08:38 AM.
#2698
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I'm going into the garage and lay a few layers of mat over the woven cloth (per DUB) to make sure there is no cross-hatch design showing on the exterior surface later on......will be back in a couple hours.
#2699
Melting Slicks
#2700
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NOW I understand what DUB means by "mashing the air out" of the wet fiberglass! I added 4 layers of mat to hide the woven cloth and to fill in the 1/8" deep valley....it's absolutely ugly but the air is gone..........
The putty knife is held perpendicular (camera angle distorts pic) to the fiberglass and shows that the area is built up flush with the two mating surfaces....this will leave me material to re-grind slightly below the deck surface so VPA filler can be applied...........................
The putty knife is held perpendicular (camera angle distorts pic) to the fiberglass and shows that the area is built up flush with the two mating surfaces....this will leave me material to re-grind slightly below the deck surface so VPA filler can be applied...........................
Last edited by doorgunner; 02-14-2016 at 02:38 PM.