427 435 Engine
#2
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If the pad has a VIN, you could list it in the "ORPHAN VIN-stamped parts" thread in the Sticky section at the top of the main page. If you could reunite the engine with the car, it could be a big deal.
#4
Team Owner
That engine, without the intake parts, would be worth MUCH less than the intake and carbs. Without that intake assembly, that engine is just a 'run-of-the-mill' 427...UNLESS you can find the owner with the car it originally came from--and providing that said owner actually wants it back.
#5
That engine, without the intake parts, would be worth MUCH less than the intake and carbs. Without that intake assembly, ]that engine is just a 'run-of-the-mill' 427[/I]..[/B].UNLESS you can find the owner with the car it originally came from--and providing that said owner actually wants it back.
#6
Melting Slicks
any 427 has good value, but I agree with 71vette its worth less than the value of the intake and carbs. I would say 2000-2500, maybe more if someone needs that casting date.
#7
Melting Slicks
I see high prices for L88 blocks but not sure anyone pays that much. It's only good for a person making a L88 and usually they restamp it anyway so any marking on the pad are getting wiped.
And then there are people paying a premium for a specific dated block. Then of course if the car it came out of still exists.....
#8
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Okay so you guys are saying that for example a 68 427 hipo block, with heads, an old built engine, aftermarket intake carb, unknown internal condition is worth about 2-2500?
#9
Slight derail, when I had my engine built at a local machine shop, my builder sold me a set of what he called "GM Bow Tie Aluminum heads" he had lying around his shop very cheap. I recently pulled the valve cover off for some mod work and discovered the number 3946074 on them. Putting that number on ebay and you come up with prices from 3-5K just for the heads. I paid nowhere near that much for them. Your engine is worth whatever you can get someone to pay for it. Good luck with the sale.
#10
Melting Slicks
I know you cruise craigslist, so do I, look at what they are asking. You look hard enough you find a deal but buying a motor is scary unless you really know what you are looking at. Its different when you cant hear it.
lobzilla has it right with his secong to last line. Whatever someone will pay.
#11
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I never bought an old 427, but it seems prices just for good original bore 427 blocks are in the asking price range of 2k or better. Thats just a good block, no cracks, no damage if you even know what to look for which I admit I would not know unless it was obvious damage.
I know you cruise craigslist, so do I, look at what they are asking. You look hard enough you find a deal but buying a motor is scary unless you really know what you are looking at. Its different when you cant hear it.
lobzilla has it right with his secong to last line. Whatever someone will pay.
I know you cruise craigslist, so do I, look at what they are asking. You look hard enough you find a deal but buying a motor is scary unless you really know what you are looking at. Its different when you cant hear it.
lobzilla has it right with his secong to last line. Whatever someone will pay.
I do crawl the net daily but see very few 427's
I was laughing hard at an ad the other day 502 that according to the ad had zero miles on a fresh build with better parts than the crate version of it had came, which was basically aluminum heads and a different came it had no carb, the seller went on to say, it can't be test ran and should be rebuilt due to sitting a few years, first 6K firm takes it,
That's a heck of a gamble,
In my way of thinking even if it was an L-88 if the engine is sitting on a stand and the buyer cannot check it out other than looking the buyer might pay tall toad pelts for a boat anchor,
I only posted in this thread curious what people thought an unknown condition 427 would fetch....
#12
Safety Car
"Whatever a buyer is willing to pay" is accurate. Those buyers in order of money willing to pay would be...
1) The owner of the car it came out of... big bucks.
2) Someone looking for that casting date...medium bucks
3) Someone looking for a big block...not so big bucks
There were a lot of big blocks made in hi po and truck applications plus over the parts counter. For someone looking for an original set up, not having the factory intake/carb is a huge minus. Also by the time you get to numbers 2 and 3 there are other and some may argue better choices. A built LS motor comes to mind as an example of better hp, drivability, less weight and similar money. So the question is, how badly do you want to see it go away? At number 3 money it could be gone by spring. At number one money you could be looking at it for years. My .02.
1) The owner of the car it came out of... big bucks.
2) Someone looking for that casting date...medium bucks
3) Someone looking for a big block...not so big bucks
There were a lot of big blocks made in hi po and truck applications plus over the parts counter. For someone looking for an original set up, not having the factory intake/carb is a huge minus. Also by the time you get to numbers 2 and 3 there are other and some may argue better choices. A built LS motor comes to mind as an example of better hp, drivability, less weight and similar money. So the question is, how badly do you want to see it go away? At number 3 money it could be gone by spring. At number one money you could be looking at it for years. My .02.
#13
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"Whatever a buyer is willing to pay" is accurate. Those buyers in order of money willing to pay would be...
1) The owner of the car it came out of... big bucks.
2) Someone looking for that casting date...medium bucks
3) Someone looking for a big block...not so big bucks
There were a lot of big blocks made in hi po and truck applications plus over the parts counter. For someone looking for an original set up, not having the factory intake/carb is a huge minus. Also by the time you get to numbers 2 and 3 there are other and some may argue better choices. A built LS motor comes to mind as an example of better hp, drivability, less weight and similar money. So the question is, how badly do you want to see it go away? At number 3 money it could be gone by spring. At number one money you could be looking at it for years. My .02.
1) The owner of the car it came out of... big bucks.
2) Someone looking for that casting date...medium bucks
3) Someone looking for a big block...not so big bucks
There were a lot of big blocks made in hi po and truck applications plus over the parts counter. For someone looking for an original set up, not having the factory intake/carb is a huge minus. Also by the time you get to numbers 2 and 3 there are other and some may argue better choices. A built LS motor comes to mind as an example of better hp, drivability, less weight and similar money. So the question is, how badly do you want to see it go away? At number 3 money it could be gone by spring. At number one money you could be looking at it for years. My .02.
To a large degree, but this thread was about a hipo 427 not a truck smogger 454 and Nobody is addressing the extra variables like I was talking about relating to condition,
So if I have the very exact engine that came out of hard core purists car and he will pay me big bucks for it does that happen even if the engine is of unknown condition and can not be inspected? in other words a big gamble, it could be a big pile of junk iron.
Do people really pay top dollar for an engine that is unknown?
I agree short of the purist needing a certain engine to make his car worth more there are many modern options that are at the risk of speaking for others are better options than an old school 427 / 454 hipo engine, ( small blocks for me )
The problem for me is while I love the neo classic spare little or no expense builds that many seem to run the uber populat LS engines I do not get the tingle when they raise their hoods that I do when I see a cool period correct-ish big block or to a lesser degree a hot old school small block.
Since the neighbors stock Lexus can spank my bb 69 all this is a bit dreamy and moot.
#14
Safety Car
To clarify a bit further, whether 2 bolt truck or 4 bolt hi po motor if it's been sitting around for awhile the prudent thing would be to open it up for a freshen if not a complete rebuild. The aftermarket makes every type of internal/external go fast piece imaginable including aluminum heads. Unless you're going for Bloomington or NCRS adoration, when you pop the hood at the local cruise night or car show you can tell folks it's anything from a 396 to a 502 (or bigger if you'd like). As long as it sounds good and will light the tires in the first 3 gears, everyone will believe whatever you tell them and the number of bolts holding the crank in place and cam spec. are irrelevant. Hence the motor only holds a large value to a select few.
Last edited by parkerracing; 02-17-2015 at 05:19 PM.
#15
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To clarify a bit further, whether 2 bolt truck or 4 bolt hi po motor if it's been sitting around for awhile the prudent thing would be to open it up for a freshen if not a complete rebuild.
You missed my point,
If an engine has been sitting around it should be gone through, however, many times a seller will not let a buyer do anything more than look and the buyer has to go at the sellers word ranging from it's a wonderful engine ready to go to they don't know it's condition either,
Perhaps some guys can afford to pay top dollar for unknown condition, I never would, I would only pay a fair amount for unknown.
But a quick glance at the block and head numbers would give or take to what I would offer, but would mean too much with unknown.
The aftermarket makes every type of internal/external go fast piece imaginable including aluminum heads. Unless you're going for Bloomington or NCRS adoration, when you pop the hood at the local cruise night or car show you can tell folks it's anything from a 396 to a 502 (or bigger if you'd like). As long as it sounds good and will light the tires in the first 3 gears, everyone will believe whatever you tell them and the number of bolts holding the crank in place and cam spec. are irrelevant. Hence the motor only holds a large value to a select few.
While I guess some people are okay with being posers I know many savvy gear heads will laugh hard and call a person out who is trying to pass off something that it isn't, I see it happen at cruises a fair amount.
Not me, my head is too scrambled but I have gear head friends who know block and head numbers in their head, in some cases due to other differences can even tell what cid the engine started at, I have no doubt there are members on this forum that can do that.
Sure you can conceal how many bolts your main has but even my wife knows when an engine is cammed,
I would bet that most fellows on this forum would know the difference in sound and looks of a 427 tri power and a 454 truck smogger engine.....
I guess you then derailed and we do agree that some weird engine only holds value to the fellow who has the car it came out of, but would that fellow pay tall dollars for an engine of unknown condition?
#16
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I have a 427 435 engine date code 1-17-68 the numbers on the front pad TI2I9JE 7107146 any one looking for this let me know. Block casting 3904351 and the heads are 3919840 I am missing the intake and carbs.
Everything about this engine says 1967 EXCEPT the date code on the block.
3904351 block casting is 1967.
JE engine code is 1967.
Block casting date is 1-17-68 (January 17th, 1968) is 1968.
Are you sure about the date code?
A 1967 427 block is worth quite a bit more than a 1968 427 block.
Can you post pictures of the engine pad, date code, and block casting numbers?
Thanks.
#17
The casting date on the head says 1 17 8 and the number on the block by the starter is 1288 or i cant really tell it might be 1266. Thanks for your reply
To some of the negative feed back above the engine can be tore apart and inspected and even taken to a local speed shop to be inspected i wouldnt want anyone to get a scrap piece of iron.
Thanks
To some of the negative feed back above the engine can be tore apart and inspected and even taken to a local speed shop to be inspected i wouldnt want anyone to get a scrap piece of iron.
Thanks
#18
The casting date on the head says 1 17 8 and the number on the block by the starter is 1288 or i cant really tell it might be 1266. Thanks for your reply
To some of the negative feed back above the engine can be tore apart and inspected and even taken to a local speed shop to be inspected i wouldnt want anyone to get a scrap piece of iron.
Thanks
To some of the negative feed back above the engine can be tore apart and inspected and even taken to a local speed shop to be inspected i wouldnt want anyone to get a scrap piece of iron.
Thanks
The numbers your giving us for the casting dates don't line up. The 3904351 casting was used for the 1967 model year. It was no longer being cast in 1968. I think if you look closely the last number is a 6.
Typically letters and not numbers were used on castings to represent the month. What your reading as the number 1 is most likely the letter I. This would represent a Sept. casting date.
If my assumptions above are true, your block was cast on Sept. 28th 1966. This would work well with the engine stamp pad assembly date of Dec. 19 and the car VIN of 07146. The Corvette birthday calculator I used gives that cars approximate production date as Jan 2, 1967.
A 3904351 block in good condition is worth a lot of money. These can sell for $5,000 or more. Look carefully to see what you have.
John
#20
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I have a 427 435 engine date code 1-17-68 the numbers on the front pad TI2I9JE 7107146 any one looking for this let me know. Block casting 3904351 and the heads are 3919840 I am missing the intake and carbs .
This car 194377S107146 still exists. It is listed in the NMVTIS database.
It would be worth quite a bit to the this owner of this car.
Paying the $4.95 fee to add123.com will tell you what state the car is registered in. Then you can search for Corvette clubs in that state. Somebody will know this car. Good luck.
This car 194377S107146 still exists. It is listed in the NMVTIS database.
It would be worth quite a bit to the this owner of this car.
Paying the $4.95 fee to add123.com will tell you what state the car is registered in. Then you can search for Corvette clubs in that state. Somebody will know this car. Good luck.