SB64

Okay I wanted a separate post for this. I need the Forum help on this one. Where to start. I need to put the body back on the chassis in order to install the front clip. I need to see or read some of the ways of doing that. I DO NOT have any shims from the body off step. Most were half gone, totally gone etc.
So 1. Where do I start
2. Am I leveling the frame front to back and sideways
3. Am I measuring from the floor to the rear fender well.
There has to be somebody out there that started with nothing as far as shims go. What did you do. Tell me or show is even better. Come on Forum.

THANKS
r

13611

I'm right with ya... subscribed!!!

Easy Mike

FWIW: I would order a body mount and shim kit and have it ready to go. It would be out of the ordinary for the body not to need shims -- but stranger things have happened.

Alan 71

Hi r,
Unless you have a surface plate to measure to, measuring is going to be difficult to trust. Measuring to the floor isn't going to tell you much. I'd think you can measure from certain places on the body to points on the frame to get an idea how you're doing.
If you have no reason to think the frame is twisted or the mounts have been butcher I'd put 2 shims on each mount. Then lower the body in place.
Check to see if the body is rocking in anyway; if it is add a shim at that location. Obviously 4 of the mounts will be easy to check while the other careful investigation.
While installing the front clip you can continue to add or subtract shims to get the gaps you want on the doors and hood. Remember original cars often had 1 shim at a location, 2 at another, and 3 & 4 at others.
Also remember that putting the clip on successfully is going to take a good bit of thoughtful work.
The frame was measured and the shim count marked on the frame long before the frame ever met the body.
The shims had nothing to do with the body, they were to bring the mounts to within certain specifications.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

spot99

R, did you notice any chalk marks on the frame when you took the glass off? In most cases the chalk marks=# of shims. Chalk anywhere else means stuff entirely different. In case the chalk was gone, I'd measure from the center of the axle to the highest point on the wheel well. This procedure worked for me but was a royal PITA. Then again, that's half the fun of restoring a Corvette.

*edit*

"In most cases the chalk marks=# of shims."

I stand corrected. I'll believe Alan before I'll believe me.

SB64

Now see that's what I am talking about. Than Alan All of that info is good stuff. I know it will take time and patience but luckily I have both. I needed to have a staring point. Now I have one. I will wait to see if anymore come in. Thank you
r

SB64

Hi Easy Mike, already have the shim kit and bolts. As far as the frame goes I have no reason to think anything was bent or warped. Hopefully that stays true.
r

SB64

Didn't notice any marks Spot99 but I will check on the pictures I took. Thanks
r

SB64

Hey 13611 I think we are doing pretty much the same thing. Hopefully I get some good feedback. So far, so good. Good luck and hope this helps.
r

jomor

Bringing up the rear, will be going down this path in the near future!! Subscribed. I had a twisted frame that was straightened and am in the same boat with no recorded starting point.

Mick71

I used two at each mount like Alan71 said and it was really close. If I remember correctly, it didn't take much adding and subtracting shims to get it so the doors were opening and closing easily with good gaps all around. I had a couple friends wiggling the body while I crawled around looking for movement, shim as needed, then I'd snug them down evenly, frequently checking the gaps and for ease of operation. It took most of an afternoon, but since I supplied beer, it probably took longer than it should have.

Good luck, getting the body back on is a huge step closer to completion.

My car had the clip installed btw and don't forget the alignment holes on the door sill.

Postal123

I installed a '68 Convertible onto an aftermarket frame so in essence, started with nothing. My first Corvette so I read about the two shims per mounting location technique here on CF. My experience:

1) Two shims per mount is a good starting point because it provides some wiggle room. All body mount locations were basically tunable by the shims, but the extreme front end (forward of the #1 mounts) were dependent upon front bracketry. The extreme rear was not like the front...the rear #4 mounts required additional shims to set the aft door gaps, but the rear of the body did not sag like the front.

2) As far as determining how to shim and/or measure, I think you'll find that the gaps on fwd and aft door lines will provide the best clues. Secondary I'd recommend measuring wheels to fender openings and body points to ground.

3) It's fairly easy to add or remove shims once you're underway...this is your saving grace. I'd recommend you do lot's of measurements before tightening mounts. I did, but still had to add shims to both #4 mounts.

4) YMMV

I hope this helps. Feel free to PM if there is some I've missed altogether that you're still questioning.

v/r,
Rob

SB64

Hi Postal123, thanks for the tips. I am writing down all these tips as you are helping more then just me so it seems.
r

SB64

Thanks Mick71 for your tip. This post has been getting great response and helping me and others. Thanks
r

Postal123

I should have also mentioned:

1) You will also want to measure your wheel fitments both fore/aft and laterally in their respective wheel wells. As the body rests on its mounts you'll be able to get a very slight amount of movement fore/aft/left/right before tightening any down. A few plumb-bobs work well.

2) If your car is sitting on it's wheels, try to un-bind the suspension as much as possible so it will sit normally. This usually happens if you come down from jackstands...two greased plates per wheel works well for this or you can roll back and forth a bunch of times.

3) As with all the above tips, make sure your alignment is good...a little camber can affect your measurements quite a bit. You can use the plumb-bob for this also...or a level on the wheel face.

doorgunner

I'm waiting until this thread ends.................................... ..

then I'm sending the whole thing to my wireless printer!

Thanks R........and all the members with the answers!

Ibanez540r

I'm at the same point. I read as many threads as I could and a few weeks ago hoisted the body and dropped it on by myself with no shims just to see where I was at. With the body sitting in place, I could tell passenger side #1 had a decent gap and needs shimmed. There was at least 1 other that I need to shim. I have yet to go back out in the freezing cold to lift it up and shim to try again. BTW, the #2 and #3 are a PAIN if you don't get it right the first time. No room to adjust or mess with once the body is down. (I had one of the body mount washers fall out of place.)

...I guess we can all use this thread to bounce notes off of

SB64

Hi Ibanez540r, some good points. yesterday I put my plan into action and moved the body and frame into place. The lift went fine and I was able to set the body back on the frame. I had 2 shims at each location. Now I will start to try and fine tune it.
Thanks for the feedback
r








On ward folks.

doorgunner

That was a good way to check for fit by not using shims initially. You reminded me about setting my fiberglass aftermarket truck cab on the frame without shims---the was a small gap on two of the six body mounts. And with a string stretched close to the horizontal body lines, the cowl (hood-grill) assembly appeared to "point slightly upwards" compared to the cab assembly and the bed assembly.

The other "thing" was.......the manufacturer's instructions stated that the CAB MUST START with 1/2" shims at ALL mounts so the front clip would sit at the right height when set in place. I placed the front clip on the frame without shimming the cab per the instructions and it did not sit level with the cab. I placed the correct thickness shims in the initial gaps to eliminate them....then added 1/2" shims to all cab mounts which made the cowl and bed line up nicely.

Being a rookie I could see how the front section of a Corvette would be similar to my truck.

SB64

Sunday I was going to mount the doors back on. Since there is no front clip how am I adjusting the rear door seam. The AIM shows the spacing on the seam I think. I will also test tighten the body mount bolts with the doors so maybe I can come up with an acceptable spacing. Would still like to know the door question thou.
Thanks
r