Cavu2u

I have a line on a 454 engine, but it's from a '92 Saburban. Just wondering how much it differs from the early '70s version block. No intake manifold on it.
Thanks for any thoughts.

Steve

The13Bats

Stock It puts out like 230 hp and like 385 torque, low compression and likely peanut port heads which some builders turn into nice torquey street heads, write up in car craft.
I think, not sure that's the newer one piece seal block,
The engine isn't a high end power house stock but if you dig cruising and low end fun, cam, headers carb etc wake them up into nice street engines.
My 69 has an older version of this, slightly higher compression a small cam, headers carb...it would if I didn't let off melt the wide rear tires off the rims, it will not rev up like a cammed up rpm small block, but I not into that I dig the low end rumble is what I wanted, and it's a bb...
I see that type engine used running condition for 200- up 500-700 common.

badrad

It should be a Gen V block with following differences.

1 piece rear main seal (good)
no fuel pump boss
no roller cam provisions like Gen VI
priority main oiling (good)
redesigned coolant passages that can cause MK IV heads to leak if used

There are more and this can be a pain in the butt.

Cavu2u

Well, I bought it. A hundred fifty bucks. #10114182 (Made H14 0). Head #10114156 (Date M01 4). Seller told me of one bad rod bearing. Came with no intake manifold, plus one exhaust manifold and one valve cover missing. Noticed that missing mechanical fuel pump "hole" and the 1-piece rear crank seal. Different.

Was told these engines were made for low RPM torque, like for towing & motor homes. Low compression = low octane requirements.

This was what I was looking for, as far as learning a bit about BBCs. Will start the teardown tonight. What I eventually do with it depends on what other damage I find.

Thanks for the responses.
Steve

Cavu2u

One word comes to mind on teardown of a BBC: Hernia!





The exhaust manifold was bad enough. The cast iron head is much worse. Can only imagine what the cast iron intake manifold weighs.

Steve

badrad

They're about 80lbs.

Cavu2u

Am I overreacting badrad?




Steve

KYC4

That's a smart buy at $150. Gets you into the BB world and a decent place to start. Congrats and keep us posted.

BTW what is this going into?

Later,

Lee

gungatim

there are a couple good books out there on big blocks you should consider. the Chevy Big Block parts interchange manual


and how to build big block chevy engines.

https://www.opgi.com/chevelle/SEHP75...FZSCaQodNS8A4w


I have both and they are chock full of good info on heads, intakes, what works together, what doesn't, etc. lots of info on the Gen V blocks for you as well...maybe your local library has them to save a buck!

Cavu2u

I don't know yet Lee. If the crank & pistons are salvageable, I'll sell it as a truck/motorhome engine: Lotza torque at low RPM. If they're too far gone, I may get a stroker kit, aluminum heads & intake manifold, and a hotter cam.

Steve

Cavu2u

Thanks gungatim,

My understanding is a lot of variances exist with intake manifolds & heads. I'm sure there's more. Book is exactly what I need.

Steve

Cavu2u

Nice heavy duty block. Note the reman tag.


Pistons look alright. Appear to be 060" over.


The worst of the crank's rod journals.






Interesting thing; when I removed the pan (previous owner had it off), there was the oil pump, but without the pickup tube/oil screen attached. It was nowhere to be found.
Hummm.
Possible it fell out, ran engine dry, damaged crank, made noise, owner shut down too late.

Just a theory.
Steve

gungatim

yeah lots of variation, square port, round port, tall deck, etc. that interchange book explains it all....

that motor should be salvageable, turn the crank, bore it over, the usual. no need to stroke it, tons of torque as-is, it's all about good breathing heads with those. My stock-ish 427 is in the high 400 range in torque, from idle to 6300 rpm, nice and flat, with 540hp, and it's not even a wild build. 10:1 compression and good aluminum heads, stock exhaust, stock type roller mechanical cam....so go with a roller cam whatever you do...too many flat tappet cams getting wiped out there, regardless of the pros/cons of ZDDP...

badrad

Those are great blocks but the deck can be thin on the later models. They tend to pull threads torquing heads down.

There's a 1-piece rear Callies stroker crank on Racing junk now for a steal if you go that route.

mirage2991

looks like a tall deck block….from the angles of the pictures….if it is….remember that when you buy an intake and good luck fitting headers without going custom or Lemon (or a hammer!)

4 bolts main is sweet…060 over not so sweet, you're pretty much maxed out unless the bores are perfectly centered, so hope it doesn't require a re-bore…from the black marks on the cylinder walls where the head bolts pull, looks like they didn't use a torque plate for honing/boring…booo on them!

buy a stroker crank, some 6.385 rods and SRP/JE pistons (10:1) and with a good set of heads you got 650+hp without sweating it!

by the way the flat tops are probably right at 9:1 cr. my 496 stroker's domes where 18cc and that yield 10.2 with 119 cc heads (I was also decked to 0)

I'd also use ARP head studs, that way no chance to pull threads! worth every penny!

Cavu2u

Just got back from the machinists.

He didn't like the darkening of the Main Bearing Caps. There was a little blackening on part of their sides, and his concern was heat may have changed the dimensions for the new bearings. Yes, the crank is ungrindable to any satisfactory size*. And that too raised question of con rod condition*. Heads looked good. Cylinder walls looked very nice as well.

This engine did not have many miles on the rebuild, according to piston, cylinder wall, and cam/cam bearing condition. Timing gear/chain set looked new as well. We surmised the oil pickup screen/tube fell out of the oil pump and the driver ignored the Red Light of Death (oil pressure warning) until the noise, smell, etc. was too much to deny. Why, why, why?

*A Stroke Kit may be the way to go. But of course that's only if the block is alright. All depends on what the Man finds in measurements. Sure would be a shame, all that Heavy Duty 4-Bolt Bearing Cap setup unusable. We did talk about Line-Boring.

Will keep ya posted.
Steve

Cavu2u

Greatest fear confirmed at the Machinist's shop yesterday:

The "burnt" main bearing caps are out of tolerances and Line Boring is needed.

200-300 bucks.


Steve

ajrothm

Whats the casting number on the rear of the block? It may be before the Gen V blocks came out (1 pc seal and roller lifters) however it could be a #445 block and those are pretty good 4 bolt blocks. Make sure you magnaflux the block since its already been bored .060 to make sure there is still meat in the cylinders.

The cyls look pretty good in the pics.. I'd be willing to bet you have a pretty good builder. Get a cheap Scat 4.25" rotating assembly (cast), hone the cyls with a torque plate, line bore it and build a 496 for fairly cheap. Get rid of the peanut port heads for scrap and find some early 70s 049s or 781s...you can often find them already rebuilt for pretty cheap and you can make decent power with them, even completely stock..

Lots of potential here, all depends on what you want to spend. Good machine work and assembly will go a long way.

Cavu2u

Thanks for the reply!
It's a 10114182, Gen V. Any good?
10114156 Heads. Perhaps the machinist will trade me up to the older heads (he's got tons of heads wrapped up in plastic on his floor).

Steve