Need advice: Repairing the holes left from removal of rear spoiler
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Need advice: Repairing the holes left from removal of rear spoiler
I recently removed my factory installed spoiler and plan on repairing/filling the holes, and then repainting. Just a few questions / advice needed on getting rid of the factory holes left by the spoiler: I plan on cleaning underneath the rear deck really well, roughing it up with sandpaper, and then using either fiberglass mat or cloth with gel resin on the underside of the deck, and then filling the holes with Vette panel/adhesive filler from Evercoat. So good so far? Any opinions or suggestions on different methods?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,248 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
#3
Le Mans Master
How big are the holes? Just bolt holes, right?
Get some milled fiberglass. Go to a boat store that sells fiberglass. 10 mil and 20 mil is good. Some automotive paint shops will have it or know where to get it. It will look like powder.
DO NOT BREATHE THIS STUFF!
Do NOT get it in your eyes!
Grind a little around the underside.
Chamfer the top of the hole slightly.
Apply the fiberglass matte patch to the underside and support with wax paper with masking tape to hold it (or a small board or cardboard or ??). Do not use a lot of resin.
In the resin that squeezes in the hole on top, pour in some milled fiberglass and mix well with a toothpick. It should look thick almost like paste.
Squeeze this flat with more wax paper.
After it cures, remove the wax paper, and block sand both sides.
Let it sit under heat/UV lamps or put it in the sun for several days. You want it to shrink BEFORE you paint it.
Most repairs have far too much resin in them. This makes an obvious "smooth" spot and it also shrinks worse than high fiberglass content.
Also, most rush, and since it is hard and can be sanded in less than an hour, they think they are ready to paint. Then weeks later, they notice distortions in the surface where the repair is.
Get some milled fiberglass. Go to a boat store that sells fiberglass. 10 mil and 20 mil is good. Some automotive paint shops will have it or know where to get it. It will look like powder.
DO NOT BREATHE THIS STUFF!
Do NOT get it in your eyes!
Grind a little around the underside.
Chamfer the top of the hole slightly.
Apply the fiberglass matte patch to the underside and support with wax paper with masking tape to hold it (or a small board or cardboard or ??). Do not use a lot of resin.
In the resin that squeezes in the hole on top, pour in some milled fiberglass and mix well with a toothpick. It should look thick almost like paste.
Squeeze this flat with more wax paper.
After it cures, remove the wax paper, and block sand both sides.
Let it sit under heat/UV lamps or put it in the sun for several days. You want it to shrink BEFORE you paint it.
Most repairs have far too much resin in them. This makes an obvious "smooth" spot and it also shrinks worse than high fiberglass content.
Also, most rush, and since it is hard and can be sanded in less than an hour, they think they are ready to paint. Then weeks later, they notice distortions in the surface where the repair is.
#4
Melting Slicks
I am assuming this is a 79? If so I would use epoxy resin and not the standard polyester resin. I have had problems with polyester resin and SMC, which is what your panel is made of, not bonding together well.
#7
Race Director
#8
Race Director
I will CLOSE that 'can of worms' by writing that if 'people' think that the body material of a 1974 is the same...through ALL the years and up to what is used today...GUESS AGAIN....and knowing WHEN to use the correct resin...well.....I 'guess' those 'people' will find out.
DUB
DUB
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
Received 772 Likes
on
645 Posts
You can try to close that can o' worms all you want but it will always pop open again for many reasons,
I have seen more fiberglass repairs Vettes, kit cars, boats, etc than I can remember work out just fine with no consideration to resin type.
While no one into the "know" will argue that materials changed during the run of "corvettes" and the right as in compatable product is best people, mostly hobbyists but even some self proclaimed less savvy professionals have used whatever products they had or got a hold of and the end results ranged from hack job to passable but then many other times the repairs came out super nice and lasted so when a cat chimes in that he/she used the "wrong" product but their repair is just fine, other things to consider are prep and the persons inherent skills, but I am not going to damn the cat for trying.
#10
I will CLOSE that 'can of worms' by writing that if 'people' think that the body material of a 1974 is the same...through ALL the years and up to what is used today...GUESS AGAIN....and knowing WHEN to use the correct resin...well.....I 'guess' those 'people' will find out.
DUB
DUB
Before
After
Last edited by Condo_454C3; 06-17-2015 at 01:30 PM.
#11
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Southbound
Posts: 38,928
Likes: 0
Received 1,469 Likes
on
1,248 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran
#13
Race Director
I never wrote that what you used was wrong...it is/was your choice. I am not here to judge you.
While no one into the "know" will argue that materials changed during the run of "corvettes" and the right as in compatable product is best people, mostly hobbyists but even some self proclaimed less savvy professionals have used whatever products they had or got a hold of and the end results ranged from hack job to passable but then many other times the repairs came out super nice and lasted so when a cat chimes in that he/she used the "wrong" product but their repair is just fine, other things to consider are prep and the persons inherent skills, but I am not going to damn the cat for trying.
DUB
#14
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
Posts: 11,608
Received 772 Likes
on
645 Posts
Not sure how it matters...I also have 30 plus years doing 'glass, I have a 69 front clip ready to pop out of a mold tomorrow, I can also do lead and metal, the cool part for me is I never did it for a living when meant didn't have to "worry" so much and I have never gotten to the point I feel my way is the only way or I don't have room to learn.
I too have seen things ranging from chicken wire to road signs used or repairs, and did you know people like Barris and Starbird loved to use Plaster for one off bucks for fiberglass molds?
That is pretty bad when a company tech reps mucks it up and can't get their product to work I bet that cat lost his job quickly and you sure didn't buy materials from that company or was he just wasting a lot of time/money showing that it wouldn't work
I unlike some here I do not try to sell my way of doing it in this thread I just made the comment that I have seen all kinds of mismatched mucked up body work turn out just fine and last, I have also seen it fail, when you made your comment about knowing when to use correct resin and those who do not will find out was pretty much cutting it in stone and slamming a door. and writing people as "people" sure did look like you were trying to belittle any group who didn't follow your every word to a tee.
Please do not get the idea that I am saying using matching materials isn't the "best" way I am just pointing out lots of people do not do it "best" and have still good results.
I too have seen things ranging from chicken wire to road signs used or repairs, and did you know people like Barris and Starbird loved to use Plaster for one off bucks for fiberglass molds?
That is pretty bad when a company tech reps mucks it up and can't get their product to work I bet that cat lost his job quickly and you sure didn't buy materials from that company or was he just wasting a lot of time/money showing that it wouldn't work
I unlike some here I do not try to sell my way of doing it in this thread I just made the comment that I have seen all kinds of mismatched mucked up body work turn out just fine and last, I have also seen it fail, when you made your comment about knowing when to use correct resin and those who do not will find out was pretty much cutting it in stone and slamming a door. and writing people as "people" sure did look like you were trying to belittle any group who didn't follow your every word to a tee.
Please do not get the idea that I am saying using matching materials isn't the "best" way I am just pointing out lots of people do not do it "best" and have still good results.
#15
Dub I did not consider it an attack. I was hoping that since you seemed firm on your point you would know enough to give me a quick briefing instead of me having to sift through the crap to find the good posts.
EDIT: Bats, those molds look very nice. Good job
EDIT: Bats, those molds look very nice. Good job
#16
Race Director
Not sure how it matters...I also have 30 plus years doing 'glass, I have a 69 front clip ready to pop out of a mold tomorrow, I can also do lead and metal, the cool part for me is I never did it for a living when meant didn't have to "worry" so much and I have never gotten to the point I feel my way is the only way or I don't have room to learn.
It seems to be an ongoing thing with you. OBVIOUSLY you can NOT READ what I write...or have written in the past. WHERE did I write that it is MY way or NO way???? WHERE....UHHH----NO WHERE!!!! WELL...GO AHEAD...do it for a living ...all the time.....fail and try many different ways of doing 'something' so ti will not fail....then when you find a procedure that WORKS ...GO AHEAD and change that procedure. See what happens. So do not EVEN begin to think that I do not try different things....but when I have a process that has 0% failure rate...why would I want to change it a process that open up the door for failure. BECAUSE ...TRUST ME...I HAVE TRIED more ways of doing things that you can imagine. Jump out there in the automotive collision repair industry and put your backside on the line and then come back to me and tell me all about it. Once again...you do not know anything about me....that is evident...once again. OH...by the way...you do know ethylene glycol coolant IS also flammable. I KEEP AN OPEN MIND...DO YOU? The difference is... I know when to not entertain an idea.
I unlike some here I do not try to sell my way of doing it in this thread I just made the comment that I have seen all kinds of mismatched mucked up body work turn out just fine and last, I have also seen it fail, when you made your comment about knowing when to use correct resin and those who do not will find out was pretty much cutting it in stone and slamming a door.
DUB
#17
Pro
Thread Starter
You know what guys? I asked a simple question and was hoping for a few informed simple answers. This is fiberglass, not rocket science or brain surgery. For those that gave me informed, to-the-point answers, let me say thank you once again. To the rest of you that want to get into a pissing contest regarding who knows more about this subject or other subjects, do me a favor and pm each other, but leave it out of my thread. If some of the people on this forum would check their egos and their holier-than-thou big heads at the door, it would be a much more enjoyable forum. I get a lot of useful I formation here, but lately there seems to be a trend toward the kind of behavior above. Perhaps it is time for me to move on to another Corvette forum and leave this drama and childish behavior behind...
So, if anyone else has something constructive to add, I would love to hear your input. Thanks again.
So, if anyone else has something constructive to add, I would love to hear your input. Thanks again.