Fiberglass repairs.....
04-30-2016, 07:02 PM
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
Fiberglass repairs.....
Maybe some of you know that on Feb 20th/Saturday a Dodge jacked up mudder pickup backed up in the Credit Union parking lot....and ran over the nose of my vette, smashed holes in the right fender, up top, and ran over the nose and busted hell outta the custom hood that been on there for some years.....so the question is.....
It has been worked on by some incompetent shops, including Gordon Chevy who was recommended by a car club friend....first mistake.....second off, they wanted to replace the hood, but I don't trust the sources of any new parts for our cars....I betting on China at best......so all the sources were out, far as I concerned.....
Second guy ****ed up the job SO bad, he basically took my money down payment and did **** work on the hood......the Stealership did crap work on the front/right fender....kept the car for 8 work daze and got about nothing done for 6 of them......
SO off to see the wizard, a damn nice guy whose family owns a car lot...seems to know design and fiberglass FAR better than anyone else around....Don't forget that in the nearly 20 years I been in the Jax Florida region, most of the Vette shops have closed and modern body shops dunno **** about actual fiberglass much have any flare for fixing something RIGHT by hand.....
BUT this last fellow has the artist flare, and it's looking GOOD, hood, body, etc....
but here is the issue, and that it is involving cracks appearing in the primer now, where there was none before, seems to be in the nose around the headlights, and where I made the openings smaller some 7? years ago, and never had much issue....but there is the spider web size cracks....
basic question is, how long to drive and sun heat/cool the car before bothering to put on a final coat of paint??? how long for the stress cracks to show up from the original problem???
BTW, it was a jacked up Dodge pickup, and so, cleared the '72's front bumper entirely.....at least their insurance is covering most of the cost, so I have to battle for to keep the paint the same color all over the car....the ****ing company will NOT PAY for a total repaint....well the paint has to match, *******s....but it's Florida and they get away with that ****.....
__________________
"Hell, there are no rules here ... we're trying to accomplish something." Thomas Edison
I have a little list, let ALL of them be MIST......
I love how Progressives want to have Darwinism taught in schools but denied as a reality in life.
All products should say "Do not use if your stupid."
http://mrvette.shutterfly.com/vette2011
It has been worked on by some incompetent shops, including Gordon Chevy who was recommended by a car club friend....first mistake.....second off, they wanted to replace the hood, but I don't trust the sources of any new parts for our cars....I betting on China at best......so all the sources were out, far as I concerned.....
Second guy ****ed up the job SO bad, he basically took my money down payment and did **** work on the hood......the Stealership did crap work on the front/right fender....kept the car for 8 work daze and got about nothing done for 6 of them......
SO off to see the wizard, a damn nice guy whose family owns a car lot...seems to know design and fiberglass FAR better than anyone else around....Don't forget that in the nearly 20 years I been in the Jax Florida region, most of the Vette shops have closed and modern body shops dunno **** about actual fiberglass much have any flare for fixing something RIGHT by hand.....
BUT this last fellow has the artist flare, and it's looking GOOD, hood, body, etc....
but here is the issue, and that it is involving cracks appearing in the primer now, where there was none before, seems to be in the nose around the headlights, and where I made the openings smaller some 7? years ago, and never had much issue....but there is the spider web size cracks....
basic question is, how long to drive and sun heat/cool the car before bothering to put on a final coat of paint??? how long for the stress cracks to show up from the original problem???
BTW, it was a jacked up Dodge pickup, and so, cleared the '72's front bumper entirely.....at least their insurance is covering most of the cost, so I have to battle for to keep the paint the same color all over the car....the ****ing company will NOT PAY for a total repaint....well the paint has to match, *******s....but it's Florida and they get away with that ****.....
__________________
"Hell, there are no rules here ... we're trying to accomplish something." Thomas Edison
I have a little list, let ALL of them be MIST......
I love how Progressives want to have Darwinism taught in schools but denied as a reality in life.
All products should say "Do not use if your stupid."
http://mrvette.shutterfly.com/vette2011
04-30-2016, 10:29 PM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
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you might have read in my build thread the bad luck I had with my ex buddy mike and the damage he did to my car, the point of bringing him up is example,
the guy had worlds of fiberglass talent, it seemed to wax and wane, when the desire struck him he was a master of fiberglass but artists have their eccentricities, mike would do thinks like slap mud ( bondo type filler ) right over lightly sanded paint or whatever if no care how long it would stick...but the car would go win shows for a spell.
my 69 was in a garage in ohio over 25 years when I got it it hadn't been out in the sun or weather in that time, when it got delivered to Orlando it actually looked like a 8 out of 10 show car, with in months it cracked and crazed and this was due to the very different climates and changes it went through,
Many top fiberglass workers will tell us that fiberglass is never 100% cured and I agree with that, we can even tweak it with a heat gun or in the 80's we would make the fiberglass hoods fit Camaros better by parking the car in the car in the sun with bricks on rags on the hood where it was warped and not fitting right.
I do not believe that correctly done local repair should be cracking afterwards, if it's just the primer start over with it,
but I would think the repair should be cured for paint in a day or two of our heat,
something isn't happy there,
sending the batlight out for dubs opinions on this.....
the guy had worlds of fiberglass talent, it seemed to wax and wane, when the desire struck him he was a master of fiberglass but artists have their eccentricities, mike would do thinks like slap mud ( bondo type filler ) right over lightly sanded paint or whatever if no care how long it would stick...but the car would go win shows for a spell.
my 69 was in a garage in ohio over 25 years when I got it it hadn't been out in the sun or weather in that time, when it got delivered to Orlando it actually looked like a 8 out of 10 show car, with in months it cracked and crazed and this was due to the very different climates and changes it went through,
Many top fiberglass workers will tell us that fiberglass is never 100% cured and I agree with that, we can even tweak it with a heat gun or in the 80's we would make the fiberglass hoods fit Camaros better by parking the car in the car in the sun with bricks on rags on the hood where it was warped and not fitting right.
I do not believe that correctly done local repair should be cracking afterwards, if it's just the primer start over with it,
but I would think the repair should be cured for paint in a day or two of our heat,
something isn't happy there,
sending the batlight out for dubs opinions on this.....
05-02-2016, 02:58 PM
#3
Team Owner
Thread Starter
you might have read in my build thread the bad luck I had with my ex buddy mike and the damage he did to my car, the point of bringing him up is example,
the guy had worlds of fiberglass talent, it seemed to wax and wane, when the desire struck him he was a master of fiberglass but artists have their eccentricities, mike would do thinks like slap mud ( bondo type filler ) right over lightly sanded paint or whatever if no care how long it would stick...but the car would go win shows for a spell.
my 69 was in a garage in ohio over 25 years when I got it it hadn't been out in the sun or weather in that time, when it got delivered to Orlando it actually looked like a 8 out of 10 show car, with in months it cracked and crazed and this was due to the very different climates and changes it went through,
Many top fiberglass workers will tell us that fiberglass is never 100% cured and I agree with that, we can even tweak it with a heat gun or in the 80's we would make the fiberglass hoods fit Camaros better by parking the car in the car in the sun with bricks on rags on the hood where it was warped and not fitting right.
I do not believe that correctly done local repair should be cracking afterwards, if it's just the primer start over with it,
but I would think the repair should be cured for paint in a day or two of our heat,
something isn't happy there,
sending the batlight out for dubs opinions on this.....
the guy had worlds of fiberglass talent, it seemed to wax and wane, when the desire struck him he was a master of fiberglass but artists have their eccentricities, mike would do thinks like slap mud ( bondo type filler ) right over lightly sanded paint or whatever if no care how long it would stick...but the car would go win shows for a spell.
my 69 was in a garage in ohio over 25 years when I got it it hadn't been out in the sun or weather in that time, when it got delivered to Orlando it actually looked like a 8 out of 10 show car, with in months it cracked and crazed and this was due to the very different climates and changes it went through,
Many top fiberglass workers will tell us that fiberglass is never 100% cured and I agree with that, we can even tweak it with a heat gun or in the 80's we would make the fiberglass hoods fit Camaros better by parking the car in the car in the sun with bricks on rags on the hood where it was warped and not fitting right.
I do not believe that correctly done local repair should be cracking afterwards, if it's just the primer start over with it,
but I would think the repair should be cured for paint in a day or two of our heat,
something isn't happy there,
sending the batlight out for dubs opinions on this.....
05-03-2016, 07:26 PM
#4
Race Director
I can 'say' that appling resin to 'toughen up' some points that took lots of stress' and you wrote is kinda pointless...because it is the combination of the RESIN and the fiber that gives it strength. Resin by itself has a limitations and I do not want you to have a false sense of 'security'...so-to-speak.
I hope he used his better judgement in using a filler alone on those areas where he went through the body....and a lot of that kinda depends WHERE on the body he went through.
I know that repairs can be done numerous ways....and I am NOT writing that what the guy did was not correct....but if he did all this work and had it primed in the same day...I have concerns that not enough time was given to allow the products he used to really cure out. it is hard to tell by if he did by how you wrote it...it is open to interpretation/speculation.
DUB
I hope he used his better judgement in using a filler alone on those areas where he went through the body....and a lot of that kinda depends WHERE on the body he went through.
I know that repairs can be done numerous ways....and I am NOT writing that what the guy did was not correct....but if he did all this work and had it primed in the same day...I have concerns that not enough time was given to allow the products he used to really cure out. it is hard to tell by if he did by how you wrote it...it is open to interpretation/speculation.
DUB