upnorth

Should be getting my car back next week from the deer hit .
Have been working all on the drive train and suspension for two years so that's pretty much done .
The last thing I was going to do is the paint I have a problem with it bubbling on the hood and paint lifting along the sides in the back . Well now the front of the car from the doors forward has been stripped and repainted to look like new . But I don't have the funds to do the back at this time. Do you know of any quick fix that would get me by for about a year until I can get it done right ? Looks like two cars stuck together now .

DUB

NOPE...the only thing you might try is to buff it out and see if you can get the shine to match....that is about it.

DUB

upnorth

Buffing wont work . The car was painted about 15 years ago and the person that did it did something wrong . The newer paint is lifting the original paint . In the valley where it goes from the fender behind door glass to the top the paint is lifted and cracked, about 1/2 inch from the window back ( over a foot long ). Looked bad before but now it looks real bad because someone pushed on it and split it open .

USAFVeteran

To qualify myself, I started painting in the USAF in 1975 where I was trained, and painted aircraft for 20 years. I continued my education in the automotive field while I was still active duty. I'm nowhere near the best, or a star painter, but I've been around it for a while.


There is no quick fix for this. Without being there to see the car, I'm gonna guess that the original paint was not sanded/prepped properly. I wouldn't take a guess at how, but improper prep is why, I'm pretty sure.


And, being active duty many years ago, with a 65 convertible, I understand "get me by for a while". There actually is nothing you can do but to repaint. And, not only repaint, but strip it to bare fiberglass would be my suggestion. Otherwise, you're just setting yourself up for more heartache. Bite the bullet, and do the rest of the car right.


Don't shoot the messenger.........please

upnorth

Thanks
Kind of what I figured . Just not in the budget at this time plus in another month it will get stored . Don't want to paint it then not use it for 6 or 7 months .

USAFVeteran

Use the winter months to do the paint removal. If you can get your storage area warm enough to work in.


Be very cautious if you use a chemical stripper, aircraft stripper, etc. It can get embedded in the fiberglass and cause the new paint to mess up also. It takes a lot longer, but I'd start with some 40-60 grit paper to get it started, then go to 240 and 320 as the paint got close to bare fiberglass. It will make a mess and a half. I'm trying to make/build the air box on my L88 hood with fiberglass. It's a mess all over my 3 car garage


What ever you do, hang in there, it'll get there. I know we all want it done right now, but.....

upnorth

Heres the lifted paint on top of back fender. Plus some of the other work being done .

Mpls Funk

Great pictures! Can I ask how you are removing the paint? What product/process you are using?

upnorth

I am not doing its being done through insurance .Was done with a dustless sandblaster at different place, from what the shop says took the guy two hours and was 500 dollars .With the time it saved the repair shop I had to pay a extra 125 . He's still fitting things but the finish is really smooth .

DUB

Your paint is obviously delaminating for some unknown cause. No quick fix unfortunately on this.

DO NOT BE FOOLED!!!!! I can honestly 'say' that using this type of media blasting. The person running the gun BETTER know what they are doing because they can destroy the body really fast. And...the photo only shows the paint being off the car and NOT how the actual panel 'feels' when you run your hand on it.

Using this type of paint removal can cause you to have to use a really high build catalyzed primer due to the body feels like a washboard to a trained hand feeling it. Like I wrote above...so much depends on how is operating the blaster.

Metal and fiberglass/SMC are two totally different beasts. What can work on metal may not work so easily on fiberglass/SMC. But I can tell you this that using chemical on your car will not hurt the fiberglass/SMC if you are WATCHFUL on what you are doing.

DUB

upnorth

I was over there today . Don't claim to be a expert but I ran my hand on multiple parts of the body and hood and it doesn't seem like there's a nick or dimple anywhere . I didn't meet the person that did it . But the shop guy told me that the guy has done vets before . Before I had it done I told him about the problems I heard on here about getting it done that way , and even told the guy that if he destroys it , he's fixing it with his money . He wasn't concerned at all . From what I saw I will not have a problem with him doing the rest of the car when I get the funds. Maybe its not the way you would go but from what I have seen it looks better without paint then it did with it .

DUB

Getting that bad paint off is what was needed....but the KEY thing here is the guy doing the blasting had done Corvettes and KNEW what he was doing. The other member who asked MAY NOT be so blessed.

And this is because I have had guys come by and blast small parts so I can see IF they know what they are doing and completely destroy them.

And I have two guys I know that DO know what they are doing and do not ruin the parts.

I WAS NOT implying what you did was wrong...I was simply commenting on how it can go TERRIBLY BAD...FAST if the person doing it does not know what they are doing.

I am truly glad this worked for you.

DUB

upnorth

Funny part of this is back about 12 years or so when I had the car painted I checked around and found a guy that was suppose to know about vetts . Again this was deer related but insurance painted the whole car the guy had it for almost a year. The person doing the work now says they previous painter used the wrong type of paint and that's what caused the paint to lift over the years . If you pop the lifted paint it has the original attached to it and also some of the fibers of glass . At least that's what I was told .

DUB

Stop and think about it....The paint that your previous painter used STUCK to the original paint....for a long time and not knowing what the car is being put through as for covering it with a car cover or how it is stored, etc.

SO...there is NO WAY that paint applied on factory paint will cause for factory paint to lift off and take it with it...all the way down to the factory SMC.. Whoever made that statement I put in bold print above... is incorrect....because it just does not make sense or work that way. There is NO automotive paint on the market that when PROPERLY applied to factory paint has so much penetrating power to actually penetrate the factory paint and primer and cause it to delaminate.

Your previous painter is in the clear on this because what he applied ....stuck to the factory paint. The factory paint is coming off....it is NOT like the paint he applied is coming off the factory paint.

DUB

upnorth

Like I said that's what I was told right or wrong I really don't care was painted over 12 years ago and started lifting bout 3 years ago. Car is kept in a garage spent 10 years in Tenn. and 20 in Wisc. just covered with a bed sheet during the winter . Don't think its been in the rain more then a few times and never out of the garage from mid Sept through April . Don't know about the previous owner but I don't think its ever seen salt . I was in there the other day and the guy was fitting the front bumper to the car . he even fix one of my fenders where the middle of it was 1/4 inch higher then the hood .

Vette-in-the-Veins

You may want to consider the Plasti-Dip route.

This way you can spray the entire car including the new paint on the front end.

It will all match, albeit a flat color and texture.

When you are ready to finish the back side, just peel it off.

Then when you are ready to paint the rear, peel it off of the front for you or your painter to color match.

The Plasti-Dip will come right off with no damage to either your fresh paint or your old paint.

By going this route you buy some time and have a finish and color that is consistent from front to back.

midigike

Or you can have the car wrapped too

upnorth

I plasti-diped almost all the chrome on my f150 3 months ago and it still looks good . Was thinking of doing the car that way before I hit the deer . But now I will probably just have the back 1/2 blasted and painted next year . Just hope the guy that blasted the front is still there next year .

DUB

I responded about this issue of the blistering/flaking paint for other members who may read this.

So if other forum members have the same issue they do not feel it was actually the paint that was applied a decade ago.

I thought it was important to you due to you commenting about it and relaying what you were told.

Sorry for commenting, and it seems it did not please you that I did.

DUB

upnorth

I have no problem with your answer your more then likely correct. I don't know enough or anything about painting a car . All I did was say what I was told ,didn't say I agreed with it .