jcnst1

As soon as I find the right one I plan to buy one from these two years. While continuing to look, I'd love to talk with anyone locally who owns a Vette from these years just to hear what really comes with owning one (good / bad), how thy drive and any other pearls of wisdom you'd be willing to share.

ChattanoogaJSB

Sorry I used to love in south Durham. But I will give you some advice after owning a few and then hope someone will give you a drive in your are.

They are iconic (but you knew that).

Easy to work on, basic non-restoration parts are found for most common wear items at your local parts store. If you have any mechanical inclination you can do a lot of maintenance yourself.

Correct appearing restoration parts are available everwhere as well online.

They generally squeak, rattle, leak and ride rough- all based on how much you spend on a well sorted or restored example. This is "part of it." Some are worse than others based on the life they've lived and what's been addressed.

The pre-73 cars are going up in price, don't buy one for investment purposes but it's nice not to lose money hand over fist

the chrome bumper c3's resonate with lots of folks. Be prepared for chatty admirers at any given stop

check for frame and birdcage rust. This forum is your friend.

For a driver, don't worry about a numbers marching original engine.

Four speeds generally bring a bit more than automatics and convertibles demand a much bigger premium over coupes in the same shape.

ChattanoogaJSB

I would add-

for a driver paint and body costs more than basic mechanical improvement. Buy good cosmetics.

Why not consider 71, 72? If I was in the market for a '70 I would easily buy either of these. (Also, I like a lot of 68 features!)

Alan 71

Hi jcnst1,
I'll add that either you or someone with experience you can trust should do a very thorough and informed inspection of the car looking for rust.
You'll often read that "all 68-72 cars have rust", but that's not so!
Be very diligent before buying the car so you don't have the work and expense that a rusty car brings with it.
I agree with Chatt that even if you're now thinking 69-70, a really nice 71 or 72 isn't that much different and perhaps you should widen you parameters to include those.
Good Luck!
Regards,
Alan

ChattanoogaJSB

I will add- when in doubt, take some photos and post them here. Many knowledgeable folks will weigh in. Alan's advice on topics is as a good as gold in my book.

Benton

jcnst1

Thanks, did you own a convertible, T-top or both? Based on your experience, which did you prefer?

David in NC

I have a 69 350/350 convertible in Chapel Hill.
Happy to discuss, have you come take a look and if nice day we can take a drive.
You can PM me if you like.
David

jcnst1

Thanks! One of the reasons I want to find someone who owns one is to actually feel the power / torque. My understanding is the 71 / 72 took a hit in HP, and while I'm not looking to drag race I also wouldn't want a great looking car with neutered power. Am I mis-informed or overthinking this?

jcnst1

Thanks! I'll pose the same question I did to ChatanoogaJB.....Thanks! One of the reasons I want to find someone who owns one is to actually feel the power / torque. My understanding is the 71 / 72 took a hit in HP, and while I'm not looking to drag race I also wouldn't want a great looking car with neutered power. Am I mis-informed or overthinking this?

jcnst1

Thanks so much, I really appreciate it! I'll PM you and see if we can work out a date and time that is best for you.

David in NC

I chose a 4-sp SB over a BB because it was my impression (right or wrong) that the SB was bit more livable, ran cooler and smoother (both in the engine and passenger compartments), not as loud, etc. LT-1s command a strong price premium, so I chose an L-46 350/350 as the best bang for the buck. While looking at cars I did drive a 72 base 350 (I think rated at 225hp) in Raleigh and it felt great, so not sure how much you will feel the difference for general pleasure cruising despite the >100hp rating variations on paper (though I am sure other horsepower junkies will disagree).

ChattanoogaJSB

I have owned two 69 coupes, one I did a significant remodel on and the current one I bought in good shape. I've also steered a friend into a nice 71 convertible and my earliest experiences were woth several early c3's (I also have a 64).

I prefer a convertible c3, and a coupe c2. That said, the t tops are convenient.

Likewise I prefer four speeds but both mine (c3) have been too good to pass up and automatics. (The 64 is a four speed which was a must) I bought my latest 69 through a friend settling an estate. Thought I might sell, now I can't keep my wife out of it so it gets to stay!

i am confident having driven both that you would enjoy a 350/270 as much as a 350/300. Both will "feel fast" in good tune. I will also say however fast your car is, there is a tendency to grow accustomed and want "a little more."


I don't have a handy photo of my first 69...

Faster Rat

Do not go for a ride in a well sorted out 427. If you do and like it...you will be hooked on pure 60s muscle. Maybe it is better not to know...easier on your wallet for sure.

jcnst1

Great looking cars and thanks for the info. Are your two C3's 350/300?

ChattanoogaJSB

Yes, both 300's. Plenty of torque. Great on the street! My 327 is also a 300. I bought an 09 new, 436hp... after a few months a little part of you wants more.

My 64 weighs around 3,100 lb, I assume my 69 is at least comparable. At that weight a 350/300 or 350/350 feels good.

I agree with the post that says not to drive a 427 and get hooked unless you want to spend the money!!!

Alan 71

Hi jcnst1,
There is CERTAINLY something to be said for higher horsepower and more torque!!!
That's basically why higher horsepower/torque engined cars have higher prices.
But, for some of the same reasons that base motor and lower horsepower cars were sold when new, people buy them now.
Perhaps the lower horsepower sb and bb engines are a bit easier to 'live with' over the long run.
For some folks it's the appearance of the car and the experience of taking care of it that gives them pleasure in owning it.
For some folks it belonging to just the right 'group' of enthusiasts.
For some folks it's having just the right garage to store the car in and just the right equipment and tools to use when tending to it.
For some folks it's having a car that lends itself to some or lots of modifications.
For some folks it's owning a car that's as much as possible like it was when new and continuing to work at getting it closer to that point.
What are YOU looking for in considering an older Corvette?
Regards,
Alan

They can look like and act like a Corvette even without horsepower or cubic inches.

David in NC

and don't forget, prior to 72, hp ratings were gross or "brake" hp
in 72, they changed to net hp, so a 72 225 net hp base 350 may be be close to a 300 gross hp 69, 70 or 71

jcnst1

Thanks for the multitude of advice. In regards to the non-matching motor.....everyone seems to make a big deal about this. For a driver, you say don't worry about it - I assume because this is mainly important if you're trying to restore for resale?

For the 68, what are the features you most like? I know the steering wheel is one inch larger than the '69 on....does this make it more challenging to sit in, steer and drive?

ChattanoogaJSB

Non numbers engines are fine. Both mine have them matching but I could not care less. For a driven car, pay a little less for a non matching engine on the front end, and sell for a little less on the back end. Don't think twice. Remember- you can always resale any car. They all have value.

On a 68, I like the wood "grain" steering wheel, door panels, push button door handle, and door panels. Somehow what I like best is the key in the dash. Only that year.

jcnst1

Thanks David, sent you a PM