SLine78

I pick up a tach drive distributor that I was going to rebuild for my 71. After removng the pin and gear and the small wavey clip, I can't get the shaft to come completely out of the housing. It appears that there are some deposits that formed on the shaft just above the lower bushing and they won't allow the shaft to be withdrawn through the upper bushing. Any suggestion on how to remove these deposits so the shaft can be removed? Should I soak the lower part of the distributor housing and shaft in vinegar?

Thanks,

Mike

RMS73

The build up may be dried grease from the top bushing. I believe there is a small hole in the distributor casting on the side. Spray some degreaser into the distributor to soften the dried grease and let it sit for a couple hours then retry the removal. Are you certain that the shaft does not have a burr on it in the area of the drive gear that might be causing the hang-up?
Roger

pws69

You did remove the Tach drive gear and stuff, didn't you??

GTR1999

The lower end of the shaft is probably scored and has raised metal ctaching the lower bushing. You should expect to replace the bushings and maybe the shaft and cross gear. Look in the well after removing the cross gear to see if it has a plastic bushing or just plain iron bore. The cross gear digs into the well a lot of times requiring some machining and plug to bring it back to dimension.
If you need the main shaft and cross gear I recommend going directly to High Tech Innovations in FL. They make them and have about the best out there unless you can find NOS GM parts. I've used the common main shafts and cross gears see everywhere and had a lot of problems with them, unfortunately I ended up with more bad ones then good. I did several distributors last year maybe the quality got better since then??? Doubt it.
I see a lot of used distributors at swap meets and just about all of them are overpriced and in bad shape. I believe new tach drive are still available and the cost compares to buying a junk one and rebuilding it.

Good luck,

Gary

Tom454

The shaft will have a "raised" area like posted above... particularly at the spot where the roll pin goes through.... the little hole. You have to file that down carefully.... removing only the burr or raised area.... not cutting into the rest of the shaft. Then pour lacquer thinner inside & swish it around to loosen up the burnt oil & grease on the shaft. While the lacquer thinner is still flowing & wet, rotate the shaft back & forth and work it up & down at the same time. It will eventually come out. If you feel any sort of resistance, go back to step one to make sure you deburred it good. If you force the shaft through the bushings with a burr, you will really mess them up big time.

lars

You have to pull out the crossgear before the shaft will pull out.

SLine78

The cross gerar was pulled. I can see the build-up that formed above the lower bushing on the shaft. When I pull the shaft up, it will slide out until this build-up/corosion hits the bottom of the upper bushing. You can see when the obstruction hits through the cross gear connection hole. This is before I can even try to get the drive pin section through the upper bushing.

mcbruce

I had to rebuild a Suburban distributor with the same problem. I just sprayed in liberal amounts of gunk degreaser and kept working the parts until they came loose. It didn't take more than 5 minutes, so if it takes longer maybe you have a burr and might consider taking it to a mechanic.

GTR1999

Try carb cleaner if it's just varnish type of build up. Check the side play in the bushings when you get it out.
Gary

SLine78

Used some PB Blaster on it, let it sit for about 10 minutes and was able to easily remove the shaft.

Thanks all.