Jay M

I need a better cooling system for my '68 BB. It just doesn't keep up in 85+ degree weather.

What is the best way to keep the car cool? Is an aluminum radiator worth the expense?

Would an electric fan work better than a clutch driven?

I called BeCool, and they're about $1000 for the radiator, dual SPAL fans, brackets, and wireing harness.

Then Griffin radiator is about $750 for just the radiator.

If I were to get a better brass and copper radiator, would that keep up with the 90-100 degree summer days?

I'm leaning towards the BeCool system because they seem to have a kit designed for '68 Corvettes, and I like the idea of using aluminum to reduce the weight a little. Is this difficult to install myself?

Thanks,
~Jay

Jay M

Oh! also:

What about the water pump? Do I need a better one?

And also. Should I use an expansion tank or overflow tank?

~Jay

zwede

I have the system you are talking about. Becool rad, spal fans. Yes, they are pricey but they do work. I have a 454 in my '71 with AC. The highest it will go to in stop-n-go traffic on a 100F+ day is 210F. Normally it will run around 190F even in 100+ weather. I also have a Edelbrock aluminum water pump and running coolant that is 50% tap water and 50% dex-cool. I could run more water and it would cool even better, but I don't see the need.

Maxd_out

I'm running with the BeCool/Spal setup and even here in Phoenix with the temps around 110-115 I never get above 215 (with AC on). With ambient temperatures around 100 (using AC) I run at 200.

It's a pricey setup but well worth the money especially in these hot climates. :cheers:

GDaina

I'm running the Spal twin fans, stock copper rad that was recored, stock water pump.

Check the condition of your radiator. If any cooling fins have seperated from the core, time for a recore. water temp is around 180. Have yet to reach 210.

MassVette

Be Cool rad., twin SPALS, runs between 185-210 max on my 1979 with ZZ/502-- A VERY nice cooling package, IMHO;

Steve Grodin

Check out Dewitts Radiator. http://www.dewitts.com/pages/index.asp They list a Griffin radiator for your car at $540 for man. trans., $550 for auto. They also carry Spal fans. I bought a Griffin radiator for my '74 from Tom DeWitt. Radiator fit was perfect and Tom is a super nice guy to do business with.


[Modified by Steve Grodin, 4:18 PM 8/10/2001]

Jay M

Thanks for the input!

I'll give Tom a call and see what he can do.

I'll also look closer at the radiator that's in my car now, if it's a simple fix then I may keep it for a while, but I just hate to spend money on something when I may replace it soon.

If I decide to buy a new radiator, how difficult will installing it be?

Thanks,
~Jay

GDaina

You have a copper radiator. Recore the thing if it warrents it. Cheaper to recore than to buy a new one, not to mention the recore is the same as a new radiator, plus you're guaranteed a perfect fit as they reuse your original side tanks.

PRNDL

Jay, did you get air cleaner decals yet?

I have the same engine, 68 L36

What kind of temps are you getting in different driving? Do you get coolant overflow at times, particularly after you turn off the engine on a hot day? It can help to seal off the radiator properly which forces air to flow thru the radiator. You can buy seal kits or make your own with pipe insulation. In 68 the cars came from the factory with an overflow hose that pours straight onto the ground! I added a plastic overflow tank to catch and recycle this coolant. Makes me much more tolerant of a little normal expansion. If your radiator is puking even small amounts of coolant onto the driveway, you think you are overheating, but it can actually be fairly normal. My car stil creeps above 210 in very hot weather or in stop-and-go around town driving. MJ

Jay M

I do have a decal set, but the air cleaner lid isn't in very good condition, I'll wait 'til I get a new one before I put the decals on. There are too many other things that need to be done first before I can worry about those finer details

The biggest problem is freeway driving. Around town the temp is only a little over 210 on a hot day. On a cool day it stays at the mark between 0 and 210, I think that's 180??

Saturday I added a gallon of water (to compensate for what spilled out when it over heated) and two bottles of water wetter. It seems a little better around town. It was 90 degrees outside so I went into the indutrial center and drove the car as hard as I could for about a half hour. The temp was right at 210, then I setteled down and came back into town and the temp was between the first mark and 210. Tomorrow I'll try some freeway driving to see if I solved the problem.

I looked at the radiator and it doesn't look damaged, so next I'll look closer at the seals to make sure they are in good shape. I wonder if the fan is blocking the airflow at freeway speeds?

I don't know what temp the thermostat is, but I think the engine temp should never go above that, if it does, then the cooling system isn't doing it's job. My Maxima can climb a hill in 100 degree weather for an hour with the air conditioning on and it never gets any warmer than it does in the winter. Why can't the Corvette do that?? It isn't the space shuttel!


~Jay

Jay M

GDaina,

Do you think a copper radiator is up to the task of 100 degree weather? I'm all for spending less money, but I can't afford to buy twice! I think there is a guy on the forum from Las Vegas who has good results with a 4 core copper radiator, maybe I should try that?

Thanks,
~Jay

flynhi

Check the lower rad hose. If it is collapsing due to water pump suction, you will overheat.

Jay M

I checked that, and it does have the spring inside. Could it still collaspse? How can I know for sure?

~Jay

flynhi

Squeeze it by hand when it's warm. If it collapses, replace it.

robzr

I just got a used Be Cool corvette radiator. I'm a little dissapointed in the quality (can we say crummy looking shimming with welded blocks of aluminum). If I didn't get a good deal on it, I'd be buying a Griffin universal 31x19 even though it doesn't have a trans cooler. You can buy a Tru-Cool or other brand of stacked plate trans cooler with LPD to assist in transmission warm-up. Why spend $500+ on a Be Cool when you can get the Griffin for $169 !?!?

BTW I also have dual 11" HP Spals which are very nice; if you buy them I also recommend also asking for the male plugs so you can make a nice wiring setup, also the best thermo switch I found is the Painless one which goes on @ 195 / off @ 180. I got my Spal setup through http://www.haywireinc.com - they have the best prices, they also sell nice quality labled wiring (relay kits) for a good price.

The Be Cool brackets which attach the Spal to the radiator were very dissapointing to me. They cost $80 and are ugly, cheezy stamped aluminum plates. Very overpriced.

Rob

GDaina

Yes I do, last week we had high 90's, around 97-98, and needle never moved past the 160/180 mark while putzzing around in city traffic.

I'm running the 160 thermostat, and even put back the front license plate bracket and plate, to get the temp up to the first mark.

Jay M

OK, I tested the water wetter and distilled water combination.

I drove for about a half hour mostly up hill in 95 degree weather. The temp was a little over 210 when I exited the freeway.

I don't know what thermostat I have, but I'm sure it's not a 210! therfore the radiator isn't working!!

I talked to Tom Dewitt today. He sells a Griffin for the '68 that is a perfect fit and he says that aluminum is much more efficient than copper and brass. It's just a little over $500. He thinks the stock fan and shroud will work just fine.

Has any one used a Griffin radiator?

How much is a copper re-core for my radiator, and will it help?

Thanks,
~Jay

Steve Grodin

I have a Griffin radiator in my '74 that I bought from Tom DeWitt. The fit was perfect. I've seen a 20 degree drop in temperature on a hot day with my
A/C on max and going up a 2 mile grade.

GDaina

Check your local radiator places. In Cleveland, it cost me $225.00.