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Bob is right on the money, you might want to inspect or install new starter to frame grounds and the battery ground, they tend to corrode inside and not be visible. My local Napa will build up new cables pretty inexpesive and better than off the shelf generic cables.
Some of the grounds just use sheetmetal screws for attachment which after years are virtually useless. You can thread those and use a real bolt. Copper antisieze or dielectric grease helps against oxidation.
The birdcage groundstrap is visible after removal of the drivers front splash shield.
Should also be one on the headlite header.
Then interior wiring gets it's ground from the drivers door pillar point above the lower dash. The wire extends from there to the clusters and console.
Redoing all the grounds points is the best place to start for prevention and testing.
I also add a #6 cable form the alternator to the frame directly below.
Extra grounds don't hurt.
Good grounds are a must for good operations of the electrical system on any car, but without everyone trying to come up and list various grounds needed I would suggest one get a copy of the ASM for your given year car and I believe you will find all the grounds as used by the factory and their locations.
Thanks for all this great info on grounding. I'm planning to check & repair all the ones in the ASM for my '69 Coupe and I'm interested in possibly adding some additional grounds. One side of my gauge cluster metal is broken and I've read where this can affect the ground for the wiper switch. I'm also planning to install a new sound system, so ideas for good grounding of the dash & console will be appreciated.
My voltmeter is showing '0' most of the time, but a slight discharge while driving with the headlights on (more so with the brights on), so I'm also planning to troubleshoot & maybe upgrade my charging system. Any additional ideas on this would be appreciated too.
Sixfooter - thanks for the braided strap from the blower case to the engine. I'm not certain yet but I think my ground that should be on a back mounting bolt for the starter solenoid is instead on the ground on the blower case. Connecting that blower motor ground post to the block would be good for mine even after I am able to get underneath (so far my jack and stands can't get her high enough for me to get under).
Even with just a standard 'rebuilt 350' and a Q-jet, this car is as least as much a blast to drive as I ever imagined (of course). As I learn more about these great cars, I will look for threads where I can be helpful in order to give back for the great information and help I have been finding/receiving on this forum. Everyone's generosity with their knowledge is really a tremendous thing here.
Loving my new 'dream car' - smiling more these days !
Last edited by C3batmobile; 01-15-2011 at 12:59 AM.
Reason: typo - then I added 'context'