RU7376vettes

I had same problem with space and height (9') so I made up a 'structure' to allow me to lift a body myself. It also can be used to pull motors or hang frames for painting. I even hung a body on it one winter to allow me to still work on the frame while wife's Firechicken stayed in the other side of the garage. It is probable overbuilt, but there is no doubt it can handle the weight. I used two 1 ton chain hoists hooked to a spreader bar on each side that had plates that hooked up to the rocker channel. I have even used it to lift a boat off a trailer to repair the trailer. I have used it for lift 2 bodies and it has allowed me to clean, repair and paint the bottom of the bodies. It is bolted together so I can take it apart to paint the body in the garage. Hope I can get the picture posted! (First time photo post.)
Unk

hunt4cleanair

Now that I've finished laughing about the "firechicken" how did you keep the nose supported. Can't quite see the front end.

Evershark

I'm late to this party but wanted to share my experience. Just finished lifting my '80 body in a "low ceiling" garage. Here are a couple of pics.
We used two manual winches bolted/hung from two metal channel iron beams spread across the garage ceiling joists. I estimated the load was spread to less than 200lbs per joist which are 2X12s. I chose this rig over an engine hoist because of height limits and difficulty "rollling" the body out from the chassis while on the hoist. This system allows you to roll out the chassis and roll in the dolly. It does require 2-3 people to operate.
Also, I left the radiator and support on because that provides for a support point during lifting and when setting on the body dolly.
The straps used are wide nylon rachet type available for about $20ea
The two winches are rated 900lbs each and straps about 1200lbs ea.
Hope this helps.

PUNISHER VETTE

Well so far so good.

I got the #1/#5 bolts off okay. the #2/#6 came out perfect!

but #3 and #4 broke on both sides so i'll most likely have to cut them off.

I need to remove my exhaust so the engine hoist can fit under the car.

after that it's just a matter of wires that need to be disconnected as I have the lift straps needed and the body dolly built.

I haven't messed with it much yet but some how i'm going to have to cut out the #3 bolts and am trying to figure the best way of doing that. A sawsall might work but i'm guessing it's at an angle and will be touchy.

RU7376vettes

Depending on where you position the lifting hooks on the rocker channel will determine if front heavy or rear heavy. It is very close and all that was needed was a single line looped over the top of the structure either in the front or rear to help balance out the body. It really doesn't take much to balance it, but I also remove the radiator core which helps take weight out of the front. When lifting by myself I put a line on it and lift each side about 6 inches and then reposition the line and work my way up or down.

I also use a couple of home made 'plum bobs' (nut on an string) from a couple of mount holes to line up chassis when dropping body back on frame.

PUNISHER VETTE

anybody know what the deal is with the starter nuts?

I got the large one off, the wire was broken on the small one on the outer side. If it wasn't broken before it must have just been hanging on a thread.

But the small nut on the inner side seems impossible to get anything in there to take it off. Headers in the way, starter shield preventing access from the front....

I guess I didn't have that size wrench so i tried to use a small socket but the gears on it just aren't precise enough to click in the range i have. I might just have to go borrow the right size wrench and see if that can get it off.

mrit

I just pulled the body off my '75 a few weeks ago and had the same problem with the small starter wire. It will be much easier to just remove the starter. Its two big bolts in the front and one smaller one on a bracket.

Dont forget about the ground wire on the P/S of the bellhousing

PUNISHER VETTE

made a ton of headway today.

Exhaust is off...i'll deal with that later.
rear bumper mounts are all off. Rear bumper/license plate thingy still glass together with body...later

ALL the body mount bolts are out or cut off.

proportioning valve wire, alternator wires, coil wires, throttle cable, rpm cable, vacuum advanced hose? off manifold area. cable going into transmission below shifter know....(speedo?)
Parking brake stuff disconnected.

anyone know what needs to be unbolted on the front end?
I've got the chrome bumpers off and grille but it's hard to tell what is needed to be taken off and what stays.
I'm guessing somewhere the front attaches to the frame other than the body mounts right?

PUNISHER VETTE

I set up the straps tonight and I didn't feel like they fit right.

Seems like the angle on them is too tight and they can't get far up into the rocker area and when they do the top part is then pinching the door/fiberglass.

Do I need to bend these? Lift from some other place?

PUNISHER VETTE

Anybody?

I'm worried these straps are going to damage the fiberglass once I attempt to lift for real...

...Roger...

I can't see exactly but I would put a piece of wood between the hook and the metal part of the birdcage to take the pressure off the door.
Then depending on the width of your straps put something under them to spread the pressure out over the surface of the glass , if your lifting using the center pull method.

wan2run

I see what you're saying...can you separate them a little? I would try that, but they look fairly beefy so that may be hard to do....

Evershark

The possible damage caused by using those hooks is why I chose to completely wrap around the underside with wide nylon straps. You can use a small board fitted into the rocker channel to keep the (usually weak and rusted) channel from collapsing from the pull of the strap.

20mercury

"should I buy the premade straps for the corvette lift and knot them to size or just use my tie down straps?"

One thing caught my attention, I would suggest that you do not "knot" the lifting straps. When you put a knot in a strap or rope either one, you reduce the lifting strength by 1/3 or so.

Great thread and very educational, Wish you the best of luck!! If I were closer I would offer to help you out!

PUNISHER VETTE

I think my only options right now are to try and separate them or locate another spot under the car to attach them too.

I have a heavy duty vice I can hold them in while i pry at it with something but you're right...it might not be too easy.

i think I only need to bend them slightly. any more then that would compromise the integrity of it anyway.

wan2run

I used a set of (5) straps I bought at BJ's for $15. They had the J hooks on the ends that look like this (except mine are rubberized)

PUNISHER VETTE

I have 4 of those from when I bought the car and trailered it back.
But i'm using 1 for support to the front radiator area.

And I also went ahead and purchased the strap kit to have...

PUNISHER VETTE

Well bending them a little is out of the question. I put a TON of force on one of them and it just smiled. Didn't budge it at all.....hurt my finger though.

I might try one more time tomorrow but I hate the idea of that much force being applied to it. I think it'll snap before it'll bend?

So i'll look at options for hooking them on some place else.

eastltd

Here is one of my favourite days of the restoration:



You should be able to hire a backhoe and operator for the afternoon at a reasonable price.

...Roger...

One option is to remove the doors and then use the door striker mounts and hood latch mounts as lifting points (but you should put a bar of some kind in to replace the door if your lifting a vert).