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Old 02-01-2011, 10:32 AM   #1
USMuscle
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Default 1977 Corvette L82 - Engine Questions

Just picked up a 77 L82. It has a little oil leak which looks like it is coming from the main seal. Is this a common issue? Easy fix on these cars?

Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:43 AM   #2
Mastr Fab
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Front or rear main seal?
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Old 02-01-2011, 11:06 AM   #3
USMuscle
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Front or rear main seal?
Looks like the rear. The leak marks are strongest right between the oil pan and tranny (just behind the oil pan).
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Old 02-01-2011, 03:06 PM   #4
Easy Mike
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Almost any smallblock will eventually leak from the main seals. I'm betting the seals in your '77 are original and 30+ years old.

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Old 02-01-2011, 03:46 PM   #5
SOMFormula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMuscle View Post
Just picked up a 77 L82. It has a little oil leak which looks like it is coming from the main seal. Is this a common issue? Easy fix on these cars?

Thanks!
Nice! post up some pics, hahaha.

Its easy. Just take your time. There are some good write-ups on it. I like to use Permatex Anerobic gasket sealer, myself. Its about $6 a tube at Napa's. Its located in the Loc-tite/sealant/glue sections. Also, spring for the Fel-Pro Perma-Dry pan gasket. It has crush washers and its re-usable. so if you messed up your RMS install, you can always drop the pan again and not have to worry about buying another gasket. Also, Fel-Pro RMS gaskets come with the little tool for install that is very helpful.
You only need motor oil to lubricate the rear main bearing upon install.
Let the motor oil drain from the pan overnight...you'll thank me for that advice, hahahahaha.
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Old 02-02-2011, 03:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOMFormula View Post
Nice! post up some pics, hahaha.

Its easy. Just take your time. There are some good write-ups on it. I like to use Permatex Anerobic gasket sealer, myself. Its about $6 a tube at Napa's. Its located in the Loc-tite/sealant/glue sections. Also, spring for the Fel-Pro Perma-Dry pan gasket. It has crush washers and its re-usable. so if you messed up your RMS install, you can always drop the pan again and not have to worry about buying another gasket. Also, Fel-Pro RMS gaskets come with the little tool for install that is very helpful.
You only need motor oil to lubricate the rear main bearing upon install.
Let the motor oil drain from the pan overnight...you'll thank me for that advice, hahahahaha.


That Fel-pro gasket is AWESOME!!!! Much easier than old-school pan gaskets.


Scott
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Old 02-02-2011, 04:09 PM   #7
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Look at the "Vettetech" web site under misc. they have a detailed article on replacing the rear main seal without pulling the engine. Lots of photos.
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Old 02-02-2011, 06:00 PM   #8
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I have owned my 78 L-82 4 speed since 1983 when I bought it with 25,000 miles on it and the rear main seal leaked just about from day one. I finaly have tired of the leak and I will be be replacing the rear seal and the front time chain seal in the spring. I bought the Fel Pro rear main seal, a new 1 piece Fel Pro oil pan gasket with the reuseable feature, a new comp cams double roller timing chain and gears (I believe that I have a nylon chain and gears from the factory), a new Fel Pro timing case gasket and front seal, and a new melling standard oil pump (since i am there anyway) as well as new lower Moog ball joints (since I have to separate the front steering linkage to remove the oil pan. Should be great fun LOL! I will check out the vettetech article in the misc section before I begin. Thanx.
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Old 02-02-2011, 08:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb78L-82 View Post
I have owned my 78 L-82 4 speed since 1983 when I bought it with 25,000 miles on it and the rear main seal leaked just about from day one. I finaly have tired of the leak and I will be be replacing the rear seal and the front time chain seal in the spring. I bought the Fel Pro rear main seal, a new 1 piece Fel Pro oil pan gasket with the reuseable feature, a new comp cams double roller timing chain and gears (I believe that I have a nylon chain and gears from the factory), a new Fel Pro timing case gasket and front seal, and a new melling standard oil pump (since i am there anyway) as well as new lower Moog ball joints (since I have to separate the front steering linkage to remove the oil pan. Should be great fun LOL! I will check out the vettetech article in the misc section before I begin. Thanx.
FYI You do not have to separate the ball joints to drop the steering linkage.
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Old 02-02-2011, 09:18 PM   #10
my 76 ray
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I uploaded some videos of a rear seal replacement on my Jeep. It's a 6 cylinder but it has a two piece rear seal and the process for replacing is the same as a Chevy 350 with a two piece seal. It was shot as I did the replacement and it wasn't scripted, I was just talking as I went. I hope it helps.

http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/p...20replacement/
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Old 02-03-2011, 01:29 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my 76 ray View Post
FYI You do not have to separate the ball joints to drop the steering linkage.
Yep...
I think you only need to remove the idler arm from the frame.
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Old 02-03-2011, 10:06 AM   #12
jb78L-82
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Guys, I checked the Vettetech recommendation above and noticed that as well about removing the idler arm and not the passenger side lower ball joint but the article mentioned removing the starter which another article I read said if you remove the idler arm and the pass side lower ball joint, you do not need to remove the starter. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-03-2011, 04:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Guys, I checked the Vettetech recommendation above and noticed that as well about removing the idler arm and not the passenger side lower ball joint but the article mentioned removing the starter which another article I read said if you remove the idler arm and the pass side lower ball joint, you do not need to remove the starter. Any thoughts?
You do not need to remove the ball joint, but removing the starter, you will be able to get to the rear pan bolts easier on that side.
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Old 02-03-2011, 05:01 PM   #14
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Default Disconnect the Battery

Disconnect the battery,
Drain the oil and remove oil filter,
Drop the starter,
Remove the transmission cover plate,
Drop the steering cylinder,
Drop the idler arm,
Remove the oil pan bolts,
Clean the engine were the new seal will go,
Use a one piece seal for 79 corvette 350,
Check oil pump inlet for popper depth to new oil pan,
Install new seal with sealant in the corners only,
Install pan,
Install steering cylinder,
Install idler arm,
Install transmission access cover,
Install starter,
Fill with new oil and new oil filter,
Connect battery,

Did I mention to Disconnect the Battery, the Starter is very Hot!
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:58 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jb78L-82 View Post
Guys, I checked the Vettetech recommendation above and noticed that as well about removing the idler arm and not the passenger side lower ball joint but the article mentioned removing the starter which another article I read said if you remove the idler arm and the pass side lower ball joint, you do not need to remove the starter. Any thoughts?
Its a damn sight easier to remove the starter than a balljoint, and in any case it will be alot easier to get to the oilpan bolts with the starter out of the way.
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:15 AM   #16
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i would use a double lip offset seal, you may have a wear mark on the crank, and another single lip seal will leak again.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2303&ppt=C0026

i recently changed mine to a double lip offset, 79, new engine, but engine builder of shortblock installed a single lip, and all i had to do was drop the steering link attached to the passenger side frame, then the pan will come right off. didnt remove starter.
i do have dual exhaust, so i didnt have to mess witht he exhaust pipes. 2 hr. job. with the felpro 1 piece pan gasket

Last edited by speedreed8; 02-04-2011 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:07 PM   #17
jb78L-82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedreed8 View Post
i would use a double lip offset seal, you may have a wear mark on the crank, and another single lip seal will leak again.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...2303&ppt=C0026

i recently changed mine to a double lip offset, 79, new engine, but engine builder of shortblock installed a single lip, and all i had to do was drop the steering link attached to the passenger side frame, then the pan will come right off. didnt remove starter.
i do have dual exhaust, so i didnt have to mess witht he exhaust pipes. 2 hr. job. with the felpro 1 piece pan gasket
I bought that seal too! I too have a dual exhaust and plan on removing the pan without removing the starter as well. Thanx.
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:07 PM
 
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