billla

Steve, that's great service from your shop, although not common in my experience. Can you post which shop you were using, with a web site and/or phone number? Thanks!

As noted previously, if the shop is doing final ***'y - heads or engine - then of course they clean it before they assemble it. For a home rebuilder that will be assembling their own heads or engine, that has not been my experience.

Let's hear from some of the other engine builders - do you get your crank, block, etc. completely clean and ready for final assembly from the shop? Do you take it out of the bag and just assemble it with no washing or checks?

Steve2147

Valley Speed, Kamloops.BC. They're on the net and not too far away from Monroe that you couldn't take your stuff there. The guy that does heads trained at Mondellos a couple of years ago. Give them a call. Tell them Steve sent you. Better yet, tell me when you're coming and I'll introduce you to the guys.

Again, if your machine shop is doing one more wash when they're assembling for themselves, you're not getting very good service. And how do you know they're doing it? Do they tell you up front that any heads assembled in house get a double wash?

But back to the wd40 and spraying it on the heads. How do you clean the gum that's left behind on the valve stems when the wd40 dries? SBC excepted, that's going to be hard on the seals if you're not getting in there and washing it all out. Should be at least pulling the springs to clean the stems if you're using something that leaves a residue.

Steve g

billla

These the guys?

http://www.valleyspeed.ca/

Thanks, I'll give them a call

As noted, I'll look to other builders to share their practices regarding washing and checking parts back from the shop. Same for WD-40 - I've noted what I do; I'll let the other builders that use it as well respond if they choose 'nuff said by me

Steve2147

To keep things in prospective, you have to remember that the shade tree amateur assembling an engine for the fun of it takes a very different prospective from the journeyman charging $1.50 a minute for his time.
If you're doing it for the sheer enjoyment what's the harm in soaping up your crank on the garage floor and taking pictures of it as you do? As long as you don't drop it, nick it or get more dirt on it than you started it's all good.

However when you're charging someone for your time there's an expectation of accountability and responsibility. If the machine shop tells me the crank in the bag is as clean as the cyl head he assembled and I trust him on the already assembled item, then I am going to trust that he did what he said he did on the crank and not redo his work and charge a customer twice for something.

Yes, I'm curious to hear from the end assemblers like you and I as well as the actual builders, the ones with the machine shops. You see wd40 in almost every household, but seldom see it on the bench in shops. I'm especially curious about the gummy residue on the valve stems.

Steve g

billla

I agree that it's great that a home builder unrestricted by billing can take the time to do very careful, detail-oriented assembly - even allowing the proud owner to snap a few pics - and do all the double-checks and small touches that most performance builders consider essential. Especially true as compared to a shoprat that needs to crank out a bunch of engines, chasing those book hours, and going "bag to bearings" without being able to take that extra care in assembly

Steve2147

The key word is essential. If you are a professional you do everything that's essential and charge for it. I'm sure you're not trying to tell us that the engines assembled by the backyarders are superior to those built by a professional, are you? Too often the weekend warrior has difficulty differentiating between what's essential and what's redundant. Case in point.

Steve g

scottyp99

WD-40 rocks! And if you don't like it, that's just fine, that means there's more for me! I use it on firearms, as a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant. It may seem like it evaporates off, but it leaves some sort of film behind, and will protect against rust for a good long while.


Scott

7t9l82

for firearms breakfree is much better

wombvette

HERE HERE, and will actually dissolve rust, not just prevent it.

Steve2147

WD 40 certainly has it's place, I just don't think it's the best thing for preserving engine parts. As I've already mentioned, I'd be especially concerned about the residue you refer to sitting on the valve stems them wiping into the seals. Pretty hard to get in between the spring coils and wash the stuff out when the time comes.

Steve g

scottyp99

WD-40 is the most awesome substance known to man. I use it for everything. I use it instead of brake fluid in my brake system. I use it instead of antifreeze, it keeps the water pump nice and lubricated. I spray a little on the frying pan when I cook eggs, so they won't stick. Every once in awhile I spray a little bit into the back of my computer, and it makes it run faster. When I go out, I spray a little behind each ear, women can't resist it!

Unfortunately, I don't know a damn thing about glyptal..........


Scott

Indiancreek

In armorers school it was explained to the class that WD40 was not to be used on firearms , as it as no lubricating properties. Only water displacement thus the WD 40th attempt. I'm sure most on here are aware of that.

73, Dark Blue 454

This is good stuff,..quick and easy,..last a loooong time:

http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/s...tor-98355.html

71scgc

Break-free ain't that great for a lube.
ATF was the best M-60 MG lube ever. High temp, didn't run off like break free.
Clean your gun. Apply break free. Wait for a week, and get a clean white rag or paper towel and see how "clean" your gun is.
Hoppe's #9 is a better long term protectant for your barrel.

wombvette

Heck, Where you are anything would rust in a week.

Indiancreek

Try TW25B for firearms sometime. Good from -90 to +450 doesn't run off doesn't accumulate gun powder residue.

billla

I certainly am. You might want to actually look at some of the engine build threads here and elsewhere and see the incredible work some of these home builders that you so casually belittle are doing.

Regardless, the thread has gone quite far afield and I'm sure the OP can make up their own mind from what's posted

Steve2147

No one said the backyardigan isn't capable of doing a fine job of assembling an engine. You're saying that it's better than what a professional can do. And I will argue that with you any time. And I doubt that the pics and threads you can point out can prove that.

On the other hand I can point out shadetrees on this site that fancy themselves "engine builders" that can't identify a normal wear pattern on a main bearing and aren't familiar with current machine shop protocols when it comes to boring engines for cnc manufactured pistons.

Keep pushing Billa.

Steve g

69 Chevy

You can also substitute the less expensive Sprayon Red Insulating Varnish #00601. It's been on the inside of my Vette's shortblock since the early 90's without flaking or clogging any oil passages. Just make sure the cast iron is scrupulously clean before applying.

As for WD40...I have no use for the stuff ever since I had a shotgun get 3 tiny spots of blood on the receiver and it rusted by the next day. Ever since, I've used Breakfree Weapon Wipes without a single incident. As a federally licensed gun collector, I have an investment to protect. I use Corrosion X on my fishing reels. I would only use WD40 for short term rust protection on iron cylinder heads.

billla

Yep, I sure am. No need to argue; we simply disagree - on a great many things.

I certainly agree there are always those in a community that aren't as sharp as they think - regardless of the expertise they claim.

Again, 'nuff said