Glyptal
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Steve, that's great service from your shop, although not common in my experience. Can you post which shop you were using, with a web site and/or phone number? Thanks! 
As noted previously, if the shop is doing final ***'y - heads or engine - then of course they clean it before they assemble it. For a home rebuilder that will be assembling their own heads or engine, that has not been my experience.
Let's hear from some of the other engine builders - do you get your crank, block, etc. completely clean and ready for final assembly from the shop? Do you take it out of the bag and just assemble it with no washing or checks?
As noted previously, if the shop is doing final ***'y - heads or engine - then of course they clean it before they assemble it. For a home rebuilder that will be assembling their own heads or engine, that has not been my experience.
Let's hear from some of the other engine builders - do you get your crank, block, etc. completely clean and ready for final assembly from the shop? Do you take it out of the bag and just assemble it with no washing or checks?
Last edited by billla; Feb 11, 2012 at 01:27 AM.
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
Steve, that's great service from your shop, although not common in my experience. Can you post which shop you were using, with a web site and/or phone number? Thanks!
As noted previously, if the shop is doing final ***'y - heads or engine - then of course they clean it before they assemble it. For a home rebuilder that may be assembling their own heads or engine, that has not been my experience.
Let's hear from some of the other engine builders - do you get your crank, block, etc. completely clean and ready for final assembly from the shop? Do you take it out of the bag and just assemble it with no washing or checks?
As noted previously, if the shop is doing final ***'y - heads or engine - then of course they clean it before they assemble it. For a home rebuilder that may be assembling their own heads or engine, that has not been my experience.
Let's hear from some of the other engine builders - do you get your crank, block, etc. completely clean and ready for final assembly from the shop? Do you take it out of the bag and just assemble it with no washing or checks?
Again, if your machine shop is doing one more wash when they're assembling for themselves, you're not getting very good service. And how do you know they're doing it? Do they tell you up front that any heads assembled in house get a double wash?
But back to the wd40 and spraying it on the heads. How do you clean the gum that's left behind on the valve stems when the wd40 dries? SBC excepted, that's going to be hard on the seals if you're not getting in there and washing it all out. Should be at least pulling the springs to clean the stems if you're using something that leaves a residue.
Steve g
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
These the guys?
http://www.valleyspeed.ca/
Thanks, I'll give them a call
As noted, I'll look to other builders to share their practices regarding washing and checking parts back from the shop. Same for WD-40 - I've noted what I do; I'll let the other builders that use it as well respond if they choose
'nuff said by me 
http://www.valleyspeed.ca/
Thanks, I'll give them a call
As noted, I'll look to other builders to share their practices regarding washing and checking parts back from the shop. Same for WD-40 - I've noted what I do; I'll let the other builders that use it as well respond if they choose
'nuff said by me
Last edited by billla; Feb 11, 2012 at 01:40 AM.
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
These the guys?
http://www.valleyspeed.ca/
Thanks, I'll give them a call
As noted, I'll look to other builders to share their practices regarding washing and checking parts back from the shop. Same for WD-40 - I've noted what I do; I'll let the other builders that use it as well respond if they choose 'nuff said by me
http://www.valleyspeed.ca/
Thanks, I'll give them a call
As noted, I'll look to other builders to share their practices regarding washing and checking parts back from the shop. Same for WD-40 - I've noted what I do; I'll let the other builders that use it as well respond if they choose
'nuff said by me If you're doing it for the sheer enjoyment what's the harm in soaping up your crank on the garage floor and taking pictures of it as you do? As long as you don't drop it, nick it or get more dirt on it than you started it's all good.
However when you're charging someone for your time there's an expectation of accountability and responsibility. If the machine shop tells me the crank in the bag is as clean as the cyl head he assembled and I trust him on the already assembled item, then I am going to trust that he did what he said he did on the crank and not redo his work and charge a customer twice for something.
Yes, I'm curious to hear from the end assemblers like you and I as well as the actual builders, the ones with the machine shops. You see wd40 in almost every household, but seldom see it on the bench in shops. I'm especially curious about the gummy residue on the valve stems.
Steve g
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I agree that it's great that a home builder unrestricted by billing can take the time to do very careful, detail-oriented assembly - even allowing the proud owner to snap a few pics - and do all the double-checks and small touches that most performance builders consider essential. Especially true as compared to a shoprat that needs to crank out a bunch of engines, chasing those book hours, and going "bag to bearings" without being able to take that extra care in assembly
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
I agree that it's great that a home builder unrestricted by billing can take the time to do very careful, detail-oriented assembly - even allowing the proud owner to snap a few pics - and do all the double-checks and small touches that most performance builders consider [B]essential[/B]. Especially true as compared to a shoprat that needs to crank out a bunch of engines, chasing those book hours, and going "bag to bearings" without being able to take that extra care in assembly
Steve g
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
WD-40 rocks! And if you don't like it, that's just fine, that means there's more for me! I use it on firearms, as a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant. It may seem like it evaporates off, but it leaves some sort of film behind, and will protect against rust for a good long while.
Scott
Scott
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Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
WD-40 rocks! And if you don't like it, that's just fine, that means there's more for me! I use it on firearms, as a cleaner, lubricant, and protectant. It may seem like it evaporates off, but it leaves some sort of film behind, and will protect against rust for a good long while.
Scott
Scott
Steve g
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,948
Likes: 72
From: Oxford MA-----You just lost the game!!!!
WD-40 is the most awesome substance known to man. I use it for everything. I use it instead of brake fluid in my brake system. I use it instead of antifreeze, it keeps the water pump nice and lubricated. I spray a little on the frying pan when I cook eggs, so they won't stick. Every once in awhile I spray a little bit into the back of my computer, and it makes it run faster. When I go out, I spray a little behind each ear, women can't resist it! 
Unfortunately, I don't know a damn thing about glyptal..........
Scott
Unfortunately, I don't know a damn thing about glyptal..........
Scott
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
In armorers school it was explained to the class that WD40 was not to be used on firearms , as it as no lubricating properties. Only water displacement thus the WD 40th attempt. I'm sure most on here are aware of that.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,838
Likes: 10
From: Austin TX
This is good stuff,..quick and easy,..last a loooong time:
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/s...tor-98355.html
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/paint/s...tor-98355.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,413
Likes: 59
From: Emerald Isle NC
Break-free ain't that great for a lube.
ATF was the best M-60 MG lube ever. High temp, didn't run off like break free.
Clean your gun. Apply break free. Wait for a week, and get a clean white rag or paper towel and see how "clean" your gun is.
Hoppe's #9 is a better long term protectant for your barrel.
ATF was the best M-60 MG lube ever. High temp, didn't run off like break free.
Clean your gun. Apply break free. Wait for a week, and get a clean white rag or paper towel and see how "clean" your gun is.
Hoppe's #9 is a better long term protectant for your barrel.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Break-free ain't that great for a lube.
ATF was the best M-60 MG lube ever. High temp, didn't run off like break free.
Clean your gun. Apply break free. Wait for a week, and get a clean white rag or paper towel and see how "clean" your gun is.
Hoppe's #9 is a better long term protectant for your barrel.
ATF was the best M-60 MG lube ever. High temp, didn't run off like break free.
Clean your gun. Apply break free. Wait for a week, and get a clean white rag or paper towel and see how "clean" your gun is.
Hoppe's #9 is a better long term protectant for your barrel.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
Regardless, the thread has gone quite far afield and I'm sure the OP can make up their own mind from what's posted
Pro
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 581
Likes: 5
From: BC
I certainly am. You might want to actually look at some of the engine build threads here and elsewhere and see the incredible work some of these home builders that you so casually belittle are doing.
Regardless, the thread has gone quite far afield and I'm sure the OP can make up their own mind from what's posted
Regardless, the thread has gone quite far afield and I'm sure the OP can make up their own mind from what's posted
On the other hand I can point out shadetrees on this site that fancy themselves "engine builders" that can't identify a normal wear pattern on a main bearing and aren't familiar with current machine shop protocols when it comes to boring engines for cnc manufactured pistons.
Keep pushing Billa.
Steve g
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 3
From: Lehigh county Pennsylvania
You can also substitute the less expensive Sprayon Red Insulating Varnish #00601. It's been on the inside of my Vette's shortblock since the early 90's without flaking or clogging any oil passages. Just make sure the cast iron is scrupulously clean before applying.
As for WD40...I have no use for the stuff ever since I had a shotgun get 3 tiny spots of blood on the receiver and it rusted by the next day. Ever since, I've used Breakfree Weapon Wipes without a single incident. As a federally licensed gun collector, I have an investment to protect. I use Corrosion X on my fishing reels. I would only use WD40 for short term rust protection on iron cylinder heads.
As for WD40...I have no use for the stuff ever since I had a shotgun get 3 tiny spots of blood on the receiver and it rusted by the next day. Ever since, I've used Breakfree Weapon Wipes without a single incident. As a federally licensed gun collector, I have an investment to protect. I use Corrosion X on my fishing reels. I would only use WD40 for short term rust protection on iron cylinder heads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 6,231
Likes: 65
From: Seattle WA
St. Jude Donor '14
I certainly agree there are always those in a community that aren't as sharp as they think - regardless of the expertise they claim.
Again, 'nuff said
Last edited by billla; Feb 12, 2012 at 04:42 PM.