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Yes -it is...I wanna be able to manually open the door if needed and not have the motor sticking out to hit the Velocity stacks... AND using cable drive/power seat motors-the switching get to complex...twin relays- several switches...These Probe/Miata motors keep it simple!!!
Have the design figured out- just need the time to put it together..
Richard
So are you using the left or right headlight motor for this, are going to mount it to a bracket or on the fiberglass? I am going to start on this also.
Did you get any progress on moving your head light motors in more, I say you have them laying or their side. I read you were looking into moving them closer to the lights.
Yes -it is...I wanna be able to manually open the door if needed and not have the motor sticking out to hit the Velocity stacks... AND using cable drive/power seat motors-the switching get to complex...twin relays- several switches...These Probe/Miata motors keep it simple!!!
Have the design figured out- just need the time to put it together..
Richard
Hi Richard, I've been following this thread for some time and am ready to tackle the vacuum to electric conversions. Do you still have brackets for the headlight door conversion? Please send PM. Thanks, Joe
Hi Richard, I've been following this thread for some time and am ready to tackle the vacuum to electric conversions. Do you still have brackets for the headlight door conversion? Please send PM. Thanks, Joe
You'll also want to get the pigtail for making your electrical connections
I've acquired the brackets etc. and 2 Miata motors, carefully read the instructions and I just modified the motor arms by grinding off the ***** and drilling the new holes which didn't take very long. I think installing the brackets and motors is going to be a breeze as is the wiring, I have to say that this is going to be one of the easiest upgrades I've done especially compared to the improvement gained. I'm excited to be removing all the (brand new) vacuum stuff too.Thanks Richard 454 for your help with this!
I have not checked the entire thread; but wanted to share a wiring setup done by a 1975 C3 owner in Maryland, he really likes it. He mounted the 5 pin relay where the vacuum control valve mounted in the nose. He connected his ground wire to the bolt that holds one of the horns to the frame. His power wire he connected to the alternator. This is the really cool part; he ran his signal wire to the fuse block under the dash to a spade next to the instrument panel fuse (labeled LPS), using a 1/4 female connector, he simple slid it onto the spade. He opens and closes the headlights using the dimmer function on his headlight switch for the dash lights. He turns the headlight switch **** to dim the instrument panel and that closes the buckets. When he turns the **** to brighten the instrument panel lights, that opens the headlight buckets. He really likes being able to turn the headlights on and not opening the buckets, giving a ground effects look. Plus he can run the parking lights without the buckets opening. Has anyone else done this? He is going to send me a picture of the fuse box and spade connection. Its a short fuse at the bottom of the fuse box closest to the floor. The 1/4 male spade is next to the fuse.
Last edited by rworley6641; 05-13-2016 at 02:00 PM.
I have not checked the entire thread; but wanted to share a wiring setup done by a 1975 C3 owner in Maryland, he really likes it. He mounted the 5 pin relay where the vacuum control valve mounted in the nose. He connected his ground wire to the bolt that holds one of the horns to the frame. His power wire he connected to the alternator. This is the really cool part; he ran his signal wire to the fuse block under the dash to a spade next to the instrument panel fuse (labeled LPS), using a 1/4 female connector, he simple slid it onto the spade. He opens and closes the headlights using the dimmer function on his headlight switch for the dash lights. He turns the headlight switch **** to dim the instrument panel and that closes the buckets. When he turns the **** to brighten the instrument panel lights, that opens the headlight buckets. He really likes being able to turn the headlights on and not opening the buckets, giving a ground effects look. Plus he can run the parking lights without the buckets opening. Has anyone else done this? He is going to send me a picture of the fuse box and spade connection. Its a short fuse at the bottom of the fuse box closest to the floor. The 1/4 male spade is next to the fuse.
Interesting way to configure the "system". I'm going to assume the relay takes something less than 12v to energize so the brightness doesn't have to be all the way up. The only issue might be if you had the brightness set right on the ragged edge causing the relay to chatter. That wouldn't be good for the relay contacts or the motors. Easy enough to figure out what the threshold level it needs is and then just make a mental note to rotate the control just a little farther to be "safe".
It was so easy to do, I told my wife that if I was carrying the parts to do the job, and I tripped and fell, and all the parts landed on the car, it would be half done!
I like the look of the engine bay without the vacuum hoses so much, I am now going to figure out a way to do the wiper door!
Big thanks to the original poster Tom for this epic idea!
why I went to electric headlight and wiper door is because my vette is highly modified, fuel injection ,supercharger ect. I did not want all the hoses in the engine bay or in the dash, these vacuum parts like valves and switches are very pricy and tempermental. dont mind my spelling please. I like modified cars, any type.
If I put together a few kits the parts will be hand made, not cut by machine so dont expect it to look that way or I can make templates so you can make the brackets.
The best part is NO MODULE needed.
I will post some pics soon.
Thanks for the interest.
Male Spade, bottom left labeled LPS. Turning the headlight switch dash lights dimmer control opens and closes the headlight buckets.
This is with the lights on and buckets still closed. Open and close the buckets using the dimmer function for the dash lights on the headlight switch.
Anyone interested in completing this modification to their car, I will gladly guide you through the process, you can reach me at rworley6641@yahoo.com or by cell phone 717-383-8154, my name is Rich, I am an old retired guy with lots of time to play with our toys like this.
I just completed my installation and am delighted with the results. They open and close quickly and quietly and no more vacuum problems. After removing all the hoses and actuators I cleaned and adjusted the headlight mechanisms before trying the brackets and motors. I ended up with the motors in the outside position for best fit:
This part of the installation went pretty smoothly, I ended up needing a little longer stroke after adjusting the headlights to open all the way and am trying to locate a couple more motor arms to make it perfect but nobody but me would probably notice. The wiring was pretty easy with Richard454's help. I wired the harness to the alternator for power and located the relay in the engine compartment to keep it as dry as possible. I also replaced the under dash vacuum switch with a switch from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The switch is lit when in the up position, and is wired to power and ground with the remaining wire going to the trigger wire on the relay. With the vacuum hoses and canister out of the way I'm pretty sure it's getting more air to the air cleaner and through the radiator. This was a fun project, I'd recommend it for anyone who's tired of their vacuum system.
05-03-2016, 11:27 AM
