jrich2004

Cranks all day but won't fire. There is spark and also fuel pumping into bowls so I don't know what else it could be. I can say that I tried starter fluid and sounded like it wants to start but won't. Also the last time it started I put it in reverse and then when I put it in drive and pressed the throttle it stalled out and won't run. and in recent weeks when it was running I stop at a red light after it was running fine and it just stalled out. I am wondering if all the spark plugs are just fouled real bad at this point. I need all the help I can get me

cagotzmann

Does it run if you pour some gas in the throttle body ?

I had similar problems with my 78 I did not find the problem until I removed the spark plug wires. I then found the casing was worn and was shorting against the block down in the area buy the shield. Now I did get spark but not enough when the plug was installed in the cylinder. Resistance measured ok. The other problem may be a vacum leak. A crack in a hose. I would inspect all the wires, emission hoses, and clean and check the plug gaps. Once you get it running I would check timing with and without distributor vacum applied and check the vacum of the engine running. Check the distributor to make sure the advance plates are moving.

jrich2004

I will try that first thing tomorrow. The short black hose coming from carb to the gas line which I assume is for vapors? Has a crack. Would that mess up everyrhing?

jrich2004

I did see some spark but not much. I bought wires and plugs. Should I try them tomorrow?

cagotzmann

check the plug wires for cracks. if you dont see any then poor spark could be the coil or the electronic module in the distributor. Without testing equipment or spare parts it hard to determine which ?

cagotzmann

That should only make the car run poorly.

jrich2004

So ill start with plugs and wires. These plugs in this car are olddd

SIXFOOTER

start pulling plugs, if they look bad then you have found at least 1 problem, new plugs and wires won't hurt anything.
Be sure and set the gap, don't trust them out of the box.
Set the timing to 8* to 12* before TDC for a good starting point. Look over the advance mechanism in the dizzy, make sure its all there, not broken and functioning.
Then see where you are.

diehrd

Weak coil ... or ECM in distributor

jrich2004

I went to auto zone and asked about ecm....only 26 bucks. How hard is it to change?

diehrd

Pull cap an rotor you will see it in base of distributor , 2 screws hold it down and just unplug the wires from it , and make sure you use the gel on the back of it to protect it from heat.

jrich2004

Gel?

jrich2004

So that would prevent it from firing? Even if it has randomly fired in pastbfew weeks but won't stay running and then I can't fire it again

diehrd

Gel ............I cant remember what its right name is , it is a silicone like substance you place on the metal pad on the back of the ecm prior to seating it and screwing it down

jrich2004

K awesome thanks

Shark Racer

Heat transfer compound or paste. Likely, you can substitute a tube of arctic silver, thermal paste used for mounting heatsinks to computer processors.

And it's not an ECM (Engine Control Module), it's an ignition module, possibly "ICM".

jrich2004

Ok guys here is an update.changed the cap and rotor. changed the coil. changed the "ICM". changed the plugs and wires. first time trying to fire it starts but running like ****. Carb was messed around with which is what i blame that on. so basically after it stalled out i couldnt start it again. Now here is another thing i forgot to mention. the electric choke has never worked. it would never close. it stays open all the time even on starts,. My brother came to help me tonight and was closing the choke and opening it as i was turning it over and it kept sounding like it was trying to fire. I am starting to believe this is carb issue but what throws me off is the fact that it fired up right after the distributer work was complete and it fired on second crank right away.. any thoughts????

calwldlife

set base timing, pull cap and rotate engine until rotor points at #1.
put damper on proper mark.
pull #1 wire and loosely put in hole so you can hear the spark.
rotate the dist back and forth until you get the spark.

also, while doing this, note rotor position and reverse crank direction
noting if the rotor moves immediately. (checks for stretched time chain.)

quick and dirty info.

jrich2004

Kinda confused lol...u still think timing is off? Its doing thebsame as it was before I changed the distributor today.

calwldlife

I was thinking about the chain.
just a way of testing it.
reverse crank back and forth to see the stretch sloppiness.