78 l82 won't start....
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: leominster ma
78 l82 won't start....
Cranks all day but won't fire. There is spark and also fuel pumping into bowls so I don't know what else it could be. I can say that I tried starter fluid and sounded like it wants to start but won't. Also the last time it started I put it in reverse and then when I put it in drive and pressed the throttle it stalled out and won't run. and in recent weeks when it was running I stop at a red light after it was running fine and it just stalled out. I am wondering if all the spark plugs are just fouled real bad at this point. I need all the help I can get me
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
Cranks all day but won't fire. There is spark and also fuel pumping into bowls so I don't know what else it could be. I can say that I tried starter fluid and sounded like it wants to start but won't. Also the last time it started I put it in reverse and then when I put it in drive and pressed the throttle it stalled out and won't run. and in recent weeks when it was running I stop at a red light after it was running fine and it just stalled out. I am wondering if all the spark plugs are just fouled real bad at this point. I need all the help I can get me
Does it run if you pour some gas in the throttle body ?
I had similar problems with my 78 I did not find the problem until I removed the spark plug wires. I then found the casing was worn and was shorting against the block down in the area buy the shield. Now I did get spark but not enough when the plug was installed in the cylinder. Resistance measured ok. The other problem may be a vacum leak. A crack in a hose. I would inspect all the wires, emission hoses, and clean and check the plug gaps. Once you get it running I would check timing with and without distributor vacum applied and check the vacum of the engine running. Check the distributor to make sure the advance plates are moving.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Mar 23, 2013 at 08:50 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
check the plug wires for cracks. if you dont see any then poor spark could be the coil or the electronic module in the distributor. Without testing equipment or spare parts it hard to determine which ?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,116
Likes: 598
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
start pulling plugs, if they look bad then you have found at least 1 problem, new plugs and wires won't hurt anything.
Be sure and set the gap, don't trust them out of the box.
Set the timing to 8* to 12* before TDC for a good starting point. Look over the advance mechanism in the dizzy, make sure its all there, not broken and functioning.
Then see where you are.
Be sure and set the gap, don't trust them out of the box.
Set the timing to 8* to 12* before TDC for a good starting point. Look over the advance mechanism in the dizzy, make sure its all there, not broken and functioning.
Then see where you are.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,000
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From: New York
Pull cap an rotor you will see it in base of distributor , 2 screws hold it down and just unplug the wires from it , and make sure you use the gel on the back of it to protect it from heat.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 12,399
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From: San Jose CA
And it's not an ECM (Engine Control Module), it's an ignition module, possibly "ICM".
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From: leominster ma
Ok guys here is an update.changed the cap and rotor. changed the coil. changed the "ICM". changed the plugs and wires. first time trying to fire it starts but running like ****. Carb was messed around with which is what i blame that on. so basically after it stalled out i couldnt start it again. Now here is another thing i forgot to mention. the electric choke has never worked. it would never close. it stays open all the time even on starts,. My brother came to help me tonight and was closing the choke and opening it as i was turning it over and it kept sounding like it was trying to fire. I am starting to believe this is carb issue but what throws me off is the fact that it fired up right after the distributer work was complete and it fired on second crank right away.. any thoughts????
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
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From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
Ok guys here is an update.changed the cap and rotor. changed the coil. changed the "ICM". changed the plugs and wires. first time trying to fire it starts but running like ****. Carb was messed around with which is what i blame that on. so basically after it stalled out i couldnt start it again. Now here is another thing i forgot to mention. the electric choke has never worked. it would never close. it stays open all the time even on starts,. My brother came to help me tonight and was closing the choke and opening it as i was turning it over and it kept sounding like it was trying to fire. I am starting to believe this is carb issue but what throws me off is the fact that it fired up right after the distributer work was complete and it fired on second crank right away.. any thoughts????
put damper on proper mark.
pull #1 wire and loosely put in hole so you can hear the spark.
rotate the dist back and forth until you get the spark.
also, while doing this, note rotor position and reverse crank direction
noting if the rotor moves immediately. (checks for stretched time chain.)
quick and dirty info.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
Likes: 878
From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22