Fan Clutch
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fan Clutch
On the BMW 325i that my C3 replaced it was common to check for a inop fan clutch by sticking a rolled up newspaper into the fan blades while the engine was at temp and running. Fan stops, clutch bad, paper shreds, fan ok. Will this check work on the C3? 350, the clutch has the metal tab over the center of the hub, so I think it is the silicone oil version.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
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Hi CK,
Your right thinking the clutch is the silicone fluid type.
I believe you check if the clutch is operating by seeing how many turns it makes after the engine is shut off.
I thought I knew where that info is but I didn't see it. I'll look some more in a little while.
Maybe someone else will have the numbers?!
Regards,
Alan
Your right thinking the clutch is the silicone fluid type.
I believe you check if the clutch is operating by seeing how many turns it makes after the engine is shut off.
I thought I knew where that info is but I didn't see it. I'll look some more in a little while.
Maybe someone else will have the numbers?!
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 07-16-2013 at 05:37 PM.
#4
Instructor
Mark one of the fan blades with a piece of masking tape.
Get engine up to normal operating temp.
Shut off engine and have someone count total revolutions of fan before it stops.
It should come to rest in about 5 complete revs. if it is good.
If the fan continues to "freewheel" much past that then the silicone has likely leaked out and the fan clutch needs to be replaced or restored. It is all relative as obviously 7 revs wouldnt be the end of the world.....
Get engine up to normal operating temp.
Shut off engine and have someone count total revolutions of fan before it stops.
It should come to rest in about 5 complete revs. if it is good.
If the fan continues to "freewheel" much past that then the silicone has likely leaked out and the fan clutch needs to be replaced or restored. It is all relative as obviously 7 revs wouldnt be the end of the world.....
#6
Melting Slicks
This out of my chassis manual:
A. Start with a cool engine to ensure complete fan clutch disengagement.
B. If the fan and clutch assembly free-wheels with no drag (revolves over 5 times when spun by hand), the clutch should be replaced.
A. Start with a cool engine to ensure complete fan clutch disengagement.
B. If the fan and clutch assembly free-wheels with no drag (revolves over 5 times when spun by hand), the clutch should be replaced.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
test
Things are looking better. When spun cold, toward the drivers side get about 1/4 turn, the other way maybe 1/3rd. I'll check it hot later today.
#8
Race Director
You can't check it completely cold like that. The fluid settles and essentially locks it up. That is why you normally hear a roar for a bit when it's first started.
Let it run for a few minutes, then shut it off and test it.
Nothing wrong with the newspaper test.
Let it run for a few minutes, then shut it off and test it.
Nothing wrong with the newspaper test.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Test 2
After a 30 minute drive, checked the fan on shutdown. Stopped within 1 revolution. My concerns were based on comparing to the BMW, but seems to be working correctly.