Capkunu

Need some help here. I'm replacing the shot power brake booster on my '76. Got the driver seat removed, (for access) master cylinder detached, brake lines, etc. But for the life of me I can't see how to remove the ventilation duct behind the lower part of the dash blocking my view of the fasteners & linkage in the foot well and firewall. It's the black plastic housing with the numbers at the lower part of the pix.

I'm following this guy's procedure. He mentions removing the duct but not HOW to do it:

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/...er_removal.htm

Many thanks in advance.

Dan G>

jnb5101

there's a long #10 bolt that emerges from the duct at it's right angle. the nut is probably rusted, so hit it with some rust solvent(not wd40), remove the nut, and the duct should slide off. as a side note, it may be easier to remove the steering column, than trying to work around it.

Capkunu

Thanks! Appreciate the swift reply!

I was hoping you wouldn't suggest removing the steering column, but I'll consider that option. The 'telescope' feature isn't functional anyway (locking ring not grabbing), so perhaps that's not a bad idea.

Dan G>

Capkunu

Progress report:

Holy s**t!! Took me all day to get those damn 4 booster bolts out! Left the steering column installed - helped hold the work light. Boy am I STIFF from contortions! Good thing we have a hot tub; I feel like an elephant stood on my shoulders. (Yep. I'm an old phart.)


This is a job I wouldn't wish on my worst enemy. But, I'm tackling the harder stuff now so the hard stuff won't seem so difficult (or something to that effect.

PS: any advice on what type of clip or cotter pin holds the clevis pin in the fork? Since the steering column is flat against my chops, it helps to have a game plan.

And thanks again for the tip on that #10 screw on the duct. Worked like a charm.

Dan G>

72LS1Vette

#1 You should have practiced drinking beer while lying on your back before starting this job.

IIRC there is a special clip that holds the clevis pin in. The AIM would probably show it, but in a pinch you could probably use a cotter pin if it fits.



Rick B.

Capkunu

Beer? Yubet.

Haven't gotten my AIM order yet; should be here early next week. Could use it this weekend. I'm ASSuming I could remove the old clip with a needle nose? Or - given the situation - maybe an M80?

Keep yez posted, and thanks for standing by with assistance.

Dan G>

mrvette

Dan, tell you what, I have had my '72 since '95, same interior you have.....what you need do is drop the steering wheel bolts you see on the flanges, loosen the ones on the firewall a tad, and drop that wheel down on the seat....then pull the bolts from the tach/speedo panel....

then note the stupid arrangement of the lightbulbs, the guys on the assy line were HATING life.....SO, I just cut all the wires, and redid the harness, into a molex plug from Radio Shack, so I have just two plugs and a ground lead and the speedo cable, and I can have my dash panel in/out in about 20 minits easy.....

this for all future saved efforts.....I did mine this way some 17? years ago, GOD, I"m lazy.....

Capkunu

Reading stuff like this makes me happy I joined this forum. You guys have not only been to the rodeo, but rode all the bad-*** horses in the process.

Turns out that dropping the steering column wouldn't have made the job easier. With the seat removed, all it would've done was hang in space like a club, impeding an already difficult access to the fire wall. 20/20 hindsight: If I'd disassembled the brake linkage before trying to access the old booster's nuts, it would've been a tad easier. The new booster was easier to fasten because I could move the brake pedal out of the way. Live and learn.

That said, I really like that Molex connector idea. I'm writing that one down for a future project.

Appreciate all this help. I hope one day I'll be competent enough to repay the favor.

Dan G>

Ranger24

How did you get the upper left bolt out. I removed my steering column so the other three won't be that bad but that 4th one is barely visible much less getting a wrench in there. Thoughts are welcome.

Capkunu

I wish I'd thought of the duct tape last year. But I did use a swivel on the wrench and a forehead light. Thing is, that upper bolt was removed by 'Braille,' - feel, knuckle busting and speaking in profane tongues.

Ranger24

Good idea, thanks.

Ranger24

Ya, that's my expectation as well. Initially I wasn't going to remove but when I couldn't get the vacuum canister out I'm left with no choice. Thanks for the reply.

Shark Racer

I did this(by braille) as well, and it wasn't so bad. You definitely want to use a 3/8 socket and no bigger. Also, invest in a fine-toothed ratchet or cry [more].

Ranger24

Thanks to all for providing me with the helpful guidance. As you mentioned I opened up a new section in the Dictionary of curse during this little job but I'm happy to report that we've met with success. What a PITA though. The duct tape idea was extremely helpful!

Enjoy the Turkey tomorrow and thanks again!

Stewart's74

Im trying to self diagnose my brake troubles and unfortunately I think its the booster. I have zero pedal.. The tips here will come in handy.. here's what I know.. When I push the brake pedal (Engine running) I can hear a significant sucking sound emanating from the nether regions behind the dash.. My guess is the booster but who knows.. Thoughts?

stevelischynsky

I replaced the upper left booster nut with one of the hex coupling nuts that are about 1 3/4 inch long. It makes it a lot easier to put this nut off and on. I saved the original nut by placing it over the right lower nut so it is double nutted. Now I just gotta remember that I did that 30 yrs from now.

Steve L
73 coupe since new

72LS1Vette

Try loosening the nuts that hold the master cylinder to the booster and see if there is any fluid in that area. The MC can leak out of the rod seal and get into the booster, damaging the seal.

I think places like Advance Auto sell MC/booster assemblies. I don't remember if that is what I used but it's very possible.



Rick B.

Stewart's74

Thanks for the advice Rick.

Stewart