E-coat frame or not??
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
E-coat frame or not??
I have a '73 convertible that I pulled the body on and disassembled the frame. I am having the frame, control arms, and trailing arms dipped to remove all the rust. The cost is $700. If I want everything e-coated it's an additional $900. I can have just the frame e-coated for $550. I don't know if it's worth doing any e-coating or maybe just the frame since the e-coating is a dipped process that should coat the entire inside of the frame. Part of me says don't cheap out and at least have the frame e-coated. But then I've read about some products from Eastwood that seem like they'd do a decent job for a fraction of the cost. I am really torn. This is not going to be a show car, but rather I hope it turns out to be a nice restoration that is also a car I want to drive on a regular basis.
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
#2
Drifting
I have a '73 convertible that I pulled the body on and disassembled the frame. I am having the frame, control arms, and trailing arms dipped to remove all the rust. The cost is $700. If I want everything e-coated it's an additional $900. I can have just the frame e-coated for $550. I don't know if it's worth doing any e-coating or maybe just the frame since the e-coating is a dipped process that should coat the entire inside of the frame. Part of me says don't cheap out and at least have the frame e-coated. But then I've read about some products from Eastwood that seem like they'd do a decent job for a fraction of the cost. I am really torn. This is not going to be a show car, but rather I hope it turns out to be a nice restoration that is also a car I want to drive on a regular basis.
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
#5
Team Owner
Are you trying to create a "museum" piece that will last FOREVER? Or are you creating a very nice "driver" car? If you are not going for museum quality or NCRS Top Flight awards, why spend that amount of money on it? Few people will actually SEE it...except for you. Just get it blasted well and paint it with a good quality frame paint or epoxy paint (if you must). Spend your money more wisely on things that are meaningful. You won't be driving the car in [salt-laden] winter conditions. Why go nuts on the frame?
#6
Burning Brakes
I have a '73 convertible that I pulled the body on and disassembled the frame. I am having the frame, control arms, and trailing arms dipped to remove all the rust. The cost is $700. If I want everything e-coated it's an additional $900. I can have just the frame e-coated for $550. I don't know if it's worth doing any e-coating or maybe just the frame since the e-coating is a dipped process that should coat the entire inside of the frame. Part of me says don't cheap out and at least have the frame e-coated. But then I've read about some products from Eastwood that seem like they'd do a decent job for a fraction of the cost. I am really torn. This is not going to be a show car, but rather I hope it turns out to be a nice restoration that is also a car I want to drive on a regular basis.
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
Blasting does nothing to benefit the interior of frame. Dip the frame and e-coat or take your dipped frame to your local Ziebart dealer and have interior of frame coated. Then prime and paint exterior. You only get one chance to do it right. http://www.ziebart.com/ziebart---home/locations
#7
Drifting
This was my thought...not about the dipping specifically (although that would be the best way to get ALL The contaminants out), but about doing it RIGHT.
If you have a bare frame in your hands, you're going to be a SPLENDID amount of money spent to get the car back on the road. Debating spending $1k versus $2k on the foundation of the car makes it seem that this is the last money you'll spend on the project.
To me it's a no-brainer. Do whatever it is you want to the frame to make it last as long as possible.
I'm not talking about spending $7k on the thing...I'd get a new SRIII for that...I'm just talking about not splitting hairs. Do it right...whatever you think right is.
If you have a bare frame in your hands, you're going to be a SPLENDID amount of money spent to get the car back on the road. Debating spending $1k versus $2k on the foundation of the car makes it seem that this is the last money you'll spend on the project.
To me it's a no-brainer. Do whatever it is you want to the frame to make it last as long as possible.
I'm not talking about spending $7k on the thing...I'd get a new SRIII for that...I'm just talking about not splitting hairs. Do it right...whatever you think right is.
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
Posts: 11,061
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It sounds pricy but I'd think you would be happy with the end result. You do only get one chance to get the frame how you want it without pulling it all apart again.
At work, I've seen enough cases of powder coating starting to peel due to contamination under it that I would be hesitant to do a frame. Sure, it works great when done perfectly, but it becomes a complete mess that is very hard to fix if it's not sticking or rust is spreading underneath it.
Another option I've seen work well was to hot dip galvanize the frame. That also gets everywhere and then you can coat it with a cheaper chassis paint. If it gets a scratch through the galvanizing the metal only rusts at that spot so the rust won't spread out under the paint for a long time.
At work, I've seen enough cases of powder coating starting to peel due to contamination under it that I would be hesitant to do a frame. Sure, it works great when done perfectly, but it becomes a complete mess that is very hard to fix if it's not sticking or rust is spreading underneath it.
Another option I've seen work well was to hot dip galvanize the frame. That also gets everywhere and then you can coat it with a cheaper chassis paint. If it gets a scratch through the galvanizing the metal only rusts at that spot so the rust won't spread out under the paint for a long time.
Last edited by lionelhutz; 12-12-2013 at 12:57 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
I sandblasted mine and used zinc-oxide primer and epoxy paint about 10 years ago and it has held up well on my driver.
#11
Race Director
Are you trying to create a "museum" piece that will last FOREVER? Or are you creating a very nice "driver" car? If you are not going for museum quality or NCRS Top Flight awards, why spend that amount of money on it? Few people will actually SEE it...except for you. Just get it blasted well and paint it with a good quality frame paint or epoxy paint (if you must). Spend your money more wisely on things that are meaningful. You won't be driving the car in [salt-laden] winter conditions. Why go nuts on the frame?
My frame is in perfect condition and I believe one of the main reasons for being in that condition is all the oil and grime built up over the years stops any rust from forming. Just one persons opinion.
Don't get me wrong it still looks OK but it's what your car is going to look like a few years down the road after spending thousands cleaning it up, worse you could expose some areas that might even rust.
#12
I have a '73 convertible that I pulled the body on and disassembled the frame. I am having the frame, control arms, and trailing arms dipped to remove all the rust. The cost is $700. If I want everything e-coated it's an additional $900. I can have just the frame e-coated for $550. I don't know if it's worth doing any e-coating or maybe just the frame since the e-coating is a dipped process that should coat the entire inside of the frame. Part of me says don't cheap out and at least have the frame e-coated. But then I've read about some products from Eastwood that seem like they'd do a decent job for a fraction of the cost. I am really torn. This is not going to be a show car, but rather I hope it turns out to be a nice restoration that is also a car I want to drive on a regular basis.
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
I really appreciate any advice from the Forum.
Thanks,
Jim
PeteL46
#14
Burning Brakes
Just remember.
"While your at it itis" will add up to 10's of thousands of dollars that you will never get back. You could say what your saying about the frame on every system, subsystem and part on the car.
Good luck with the resto.