BEVO76

Race spec engine builder I went with used RTV to seal the gasket to the pan and then again to seal the pan to the block in whihc the front seal leaked. I ran a light bead around the entire gasket sealing it to the pan, but put nothing on it to seal it to the block resulting in both the front and the rear leaking. Some say just do the corners some say do the whole gasket, some say follow the instruction and dont put anything on it. So my questions is.

WHAT IS THE ANSWER TO THIS MYSTERY???????????????

mrvette

When the front and rear main caps are installed, the surfaces have to clean as a whistle on both the block and cap, NO OIL, then a thin film of Permatex RTV black to the cap surfaces....install/torque per normal.....

then RTV in to the corners front and rear, assuming it's a rubber/neoprene gasket, it should be fine....you can of course put more rtv all over the surfaces on both sides....don't have to use a ton of it, just a thin coat.....

BEVO76

In saying clean as a whistle.....I did have a very small amount of silicone on the cap.....not on the pan. Could that have been the issue.

drwet

I use a one piece gasket and just a VERY small smear of RTV in the corners. Works for me. With that said, a friend of mine built an engine recently and there was an issue with the one piece pan gaskets not fitting correctly. Don't remember which one he ended up going with, but the first couple he got were the ones listed for his application, but simply didn't fit the pan properly.

C3 Stroker

You're talking about the one-piece FelPro ?..........If so, just follow the instructions and put nothing on it. If it makes you feel better, add a dab of RTV at the timing cover corners, but it's not necessary. I've installed this way and never had a leak. Don't over tighten.....I believe the bolt holes have a slight metal guide that lets you know when you're tight enough.

BEVO76

My block is out of a 89 Firebird (GM) with passenger side dipstick. Felpro only has one gasket type (OS34500R) the one I am picking up tonight along with a new oil pan will be my third one/attempt.

But now that you say something about the fit......the first two did not look right sitting on the pan. It seemed off a bit in the corners.

If it dosent work on the 4th attempt I might just weld this sucker to the block

BEVO76

Sorry...yes I am talking about the one piece felpro, and I do have the guides.

jcloving

I used a similar Felpro gasket. I put silicone on the pan, then put the gasket on it. I let it sit overnight. I then put silicone on the gasket surface and then put it on the block. I snugged all the bolts. Let it sit overnight. Next day, tighten all bolts to torque.

No leaks.

I cleaned all surfaces very, very well.

Is it overkill. Maybe. Do I have leaks? Nope, not one.

You decide.

BEVO76

What about using "The Right Stuff" and seal the whole thing together....gasket to pan and pan to block.

BEVO76

JC I think your on to something!!!

Roco71

I used RTV in the corners only per instructions. There are two different gaskets. One for 75 and later oil pans and the other for 74 and older got the right one?

BEVO76

I do have the right felpro one piece gasket. (OS34500R) I do not have the L48 engine in this car...that pooch is sitting on an engine stand in the corner of the garage.

I have a 355 SBC in the vette. The block was out of a 1989 Firebird so as mentioed it has the passenger side dipstick.

BEVO76

Do you guys see what I am talking about:

2 VOTES for corners only

2 VOTES for the entire gasket

2 VOTES for NONE

akdale

Yep as I was reading the thread I was thinking the same thing

The answer depends on the gasket. With every one I have done (dozens of two piece) it has been light tack on the pan, RTV on the corners/tabs of the front and rear pan seals. (Much the same as the process on an intake manifold on a SBC. The only time I see leaks is if the pan has been over tightened before which deforms the mating surfaces. Inspect the pan, if not flat, fix or replace.

BEVO76

AK,

I have a new pan coming going to pick it up tonight. The last time I broke the seal of the RTV it bent the drivers side rail of the pan downward. But once I tightened everything back up it sealed. Still dont get why it leaks out the back which it didnt do before but I did have a little silicone that i didnt get off the rear seal.

BEVO76

So here is what I am planning on doing (THOUGHTS???????)

Take "The Right Stuff" and draw a bead on the pan put the gasket on the pan. Then going to let that sit overnight.

Next day I am going to draw another bead of "The Right Stuff" on top of the gasket to put up against the block and install.

Then going to finger tighten the corners to hold it in place. From there I am going to put the rest of the bolts in starting from the middle and sinch it up.

The next morning I will torque to spec.

IF THAT SUCKER DOSENT SEAL IT.....I AM GETTING A CAN OF JB WELD

speedreed8

thats a dry fit gasket (1 piece). no sealant, thats why it has the small plastic holders. i installed mine dry, no leaks. follow the instructions with the gasket..... sure its not the rear main seal leaking..

7T1vette

If you want to put sealant on that joint, save your money and just install a cheap cork gasket. A cork gasket with Permatex #2 sealant on both sides of the gasket, and a daub of black RTV at the cap joints will seal just fine.

BTW, when you put the bolts in [for cork gasket and sealant], just snug them up and let it sit overnight to allow the sealant to set. Then, bring bolts up to torque in 3 stages (30% torque all-around, 60% torque, then full torque). It won't leak.

For the one-piece blue Fel-pro seal, put a dab of RTV at the cap joints and bolt 'er up to RATED bolt torque. No other work necessary.

Oh....find another "mechanic". Someone who puts sealant on a blue Fel-Pro gasket doesn't know what he's doing.....

KapsSA

I guess I'm old school, or just want things to look original, but I prefer the old cork gaskets.
Did both my 78s and both my 79s a few years ago, zero leaks thus far.

First, everything needs to be spotless. Lacquer thinner or brake parts cleaner into every area the gasket touches.
Keep in mind, an oil film will form fast with the motor in place and the pan removed. Maybe let everything drain overnight with the pan off, and then a final clean.

I put a THIN coat(most of it will squeeze out)of blue rtv on both sides of the cork gasket(matches the GM blue, but it all gets painted afterward anyway)and stick the gaskets in place on the motor. Put a thin bead of black rtv on both sides of both front and rear seals(a little overkill!)with a dab more at the joints and put them in place on the motor.
Immediately put the pan in place and tighten the bolts "hand" tight.
Leave it over night and recheck the bolts.

Just something to consider since you keep having trouble with your one piece gaskets.

Bud2

Just my 2 cents worth. You are seeing different opinions because the gasket in question is a great gasket. In all normal applications, it will seal just fine as per instructions. But if you feel you need to add sealant all over it then it will still seal. See, both will work.

My money is on other factors. Either the block, rear seal or pan has a problem. (I'm assuming you have the right front seal thickness for your application.)

Bud.