Neil B

Hey guys, I am planning some upcoming work on my '69 427 big block car. I plan to swap the cam and rear main seal. I will be swapping the valvesprings, including re-shimming/adjusting spring height and replacing the seals. I also plan to degree the cam to check installed intake centerline. The heads do not need to come off the motor. The car already has headers that I will be reusing as well. I can do this one of two ways:

1) Pull hood and radiator (the car has electric fans and no shroud). Replace cam and springs in-car. Drop the steering and replace the rear main seal.

2) Pull hood and pull motor (the 4-speed stays in the car) and do the work on a stand.

The paint on this car is very nice, so protecting it from damage is a consideration. I have a 4-post lift and can do the job either on the lift or on jackstands.

What do you recommend?

CA-Legal-Vette

I've done each of those operations with the motor in the car. While not easy, they are possible: on a small block.

If I were to do all four on a small block, I'd just remove the motor. Not even sure it's possible on a big block to degree the cam with the motor in place.

cardo0

I would leave the engine in the car as removing is just as hazardous for your paint as working over the fenders or probably worse. The corvette has good oil pan access and removing the oil pan to replace that rear main seal is much easier than disconnecting the trans, removing the hood, radiator and core support to remove the engine.

Just cover your fenders well but i suspect the hood will have to come off for the radiator- it will have to come out for the cam.

Good luck and let us know if u have any more questions,
cardo0

BKbroiler

Is it possible to degree the cam with the engine in the car, considering the degree wheel bolted to the crank?

scottyp99

I think it all depends on how comfortable you are pulling an engine. Some guys pull the engine just to change spark plugs, for crying out loud. They have done it before, have all the equipment, the right kind of place to do it, and the room to do it. if you don't have all these things, it would probably be best to do it in the car. I've never laid a wrench on a big block 'vette, though, so take it for what its worth: free advice from someone who doesn't really know what they are talking about! Good luck, however you choose to go, and, as usual, keep us posted, OK?

Scott

MrJlr

I'd pull it. Then you can clean and paint too

Neil B

Here are some pics of the victim. No fan shroud in the way, but the right side header will need to move to get to the steering idler bolted to the frame. It won't require much detailing, just a rowdy hydraulic roller and a new rear seal...

MrJlr

Wow....that's CLEAN

Never mind

1Fordman

Are you sure you have an oil leak? That engine and under-carraige is way to clean!

Very nice.

Neil B

Yup. It sweats just enough from the rear main to bug me. Plus, I really want to do the cam swap. : )

CanadaGrant

I just did the same job on my 69 427. Cam, lifters, valve springs, rockers and pushrods. I did it on jackstands with 16 inches of room. Removed the hood/ shroud/rad support as a unit since the hood was off and pulled the pan for a rear seal while I was at it. It was a pretty easy job and since you have a hoist, I wouldn't even think of pulling the motor for something this simple.

claysmoker

Could I ask what brand of headers those are?

Thanks!

Neil B

They are from Stainlessworks.

Neil B

Good question. Will a small degree wheel interfere with the crossmember on a big block? I'm going to want to check intake centerline and PV clearance.

Neil B

I'm debating whether or not to do it on the lift. If I do, I will have trouble unloading the front suspension (if that is required to drop the steering for oil pan removal). Plus, the posts limit access to the engine bay a bit.

CaseyJones

The suspension will remain as it is. Just the steering linkage will need to drop down enough to remove the pan. The top side work does not require the lift so that is not an issue.

Neil B

Right, but can you drop the steering linkage enough if the car's weight is on the wheels? If not, it will probably be easier to do this on jackstands.

CanadaGrant

You don't have to unload the suspension. All you have to do is remove the two bolts from the idler arm and pull the linkage with the power steering ram down. The pan slides right out with plenty of room, at least an inch and a half of clearance. I did it on jackstands positioned under the lower a-arms so the suspension was loaded. I was kind of surprised how easy it was as some say you have to turn the crank to get the front counter weight up but there is no need for anything like that. It takes less than 5 mins. to drop the steering by just unbolting the idler arm.

427Hotrod

I would probably pull it since I was going to be doing all of that work. But that's just me. I'd rather stand by the engine stand than hang over a fender....and I've got a lift also!

But...as mentioned...pan comes off easy...and since you have it off anyway the timing cover won't be an issue.

But again...by the time you get front end stripped, intake off etc....there's not much left to yank it out. By the time you get radiator out of the way to clear cam, you can have it out. In fact I seem to remember having to remove motor mount bolts and slightly lift engine to allow cam to clear radiator support cross braces. But maybe it was just my luck...

JIM

MalibuVLX

Pull it.