U69 Hood Alarm Wire Routing 1969
#1
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U69 Hood Alarm Wire Routing 1969
Plowing my way through the wiring still and ran into a snag. Trying to determine at which hole the hood alarm wires enter the w/w compartment.
From what I gather the U69 hood alarm's white wire exits the cabin through the 4 hole grommet, into the engine bay, then runs to the pass. side, taped to the wiper motor and starter solenoid harnesss branch of the engine harness.
Pretty sure they're in the wrong hole in the pic now but really don't know. Not a call for the aim police.
Through which firewall hole do the hood alarm wires, the white one now accompanied with a black ground from the w/w motor, go back into the w/w compartment to connect to the hood alarm switch? Thanks, Rick
From what I gather the U69 hood alarm's white wire exits the cabin through the 4 hole grommet, into the engine bay, then runs to the pass. side, taped to the wiper motor and starter solenoid harnesss branch of the engine harness.
Pretty sure they're in the wrong hole in the pic now but really don't know. Not a call for the aim police.
Through which firewall hole do the hood alarm wires, the white one now accompanied with a black ground from the w/w motor, go back into the w/w compartment to connect to the hood alarm switch? Thanks, Rick
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Hi Rick,
The way I read the U69 option Pages in the AIM, UA6, Sheet A2, I'd say you have it running through the proper hole in the firewall.
What makes you think it might be in the wrong place?
The hole is located on the drawing as though it's right below the surround's gutter.
Isn't the larger hole below it intended for the 3 hoses exiting the wiper bay from the wiper door safety switch?
Regards,
Alan
The way I read the U69 option Pages in the AIM, UA6, Sheet A2, I'd say you have it running through the proper hole in the firewall.
What makes you think it might be in the wrong place?
The hole is located on the drawing as though it's right below the surround's gutter.
Isn't the larger hole below it intended for the 3 hoses exiting the wiper bay from the wiper door safety switch?
Regards,
Alan
Last edited by Alan 71; 11-20-2014 at 08:10 PM.
#3
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Hi Rick,
The way I read the U69 option Pages in the AIM, UA6, Sheet A2, I'd say you have it running through the proper hole in the firewall.
What makes you think it might be in the wrong place?
The hole is located on the drawing as though it's right below the surround's gutter.
Isn't the larger hole below it intended for the 3 hoses exiting the wiper bay from the wiper door safety switch?
Regards,
Alan
The way I read the U69 option Pages in the AIM, UA6, Sheet A2, I'd say you have it running through the proper hole in the firewall.
What makes you think it might be in the wrong place?
The hole is located on the drawing as though it's right below the surround's gutter.
Isn't the larger hole below it intended for the 3 hoses exiting the wiper bay from the wiper door safety switch?
Regards,
Alan
My apologies, UA6 not U69. I always seem to confuse the two terms for some reason. I even mistakenly wrote U69 on the box that I had stored my alarm system parts in.
I wasn't sure which hole to use since my 69 aim is unclear. I just ran it through the closest hole that seemed the most logical. Didn't want to install it without checking since the little metal connectors on the ends of the wires aren't really meant to be removed from the switch very easily.
Do you or anybody else know if there is supposed to be a grommet where these two wires enter the w/w compartment? Thanks, Rick
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Hi Rick,
Grommet question is an interesting one.
The AIM certainly shows a simple 1 hole grommet.
BUT…. it's not called out as a separate item# which means it likely was installed on the harness wires when the harness was assembled and came to the line already on the harness.
I'd look through Dr.Rebuilds long list of grommets for one that looks appropriate.
If it's solid you could slit it to slip the wires into it and no one will be the wiser.
Regards,
Alan
Grommet question is an interesting one.
The AIM certainly shows a simple 1 hole grommet.
BUT…. it's not called out as a separate item# which means it likely was installed on the harness wires when the harness was assembled and came to the line already on the harness.
I'd look through Dr.Rebuilds long list of grommets for one that looks appropriate.
If it's solid you could slit it to slip the wires into it and no one will be the wiser.
Regards,
Alan
#5
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Thread Starter
Hi Rick,
Grommet question is an interesting one.
The AIM certainly shows a simple 1 hole grommet.
BUT…. it's not called out as a separate item# which means it likely was installed on the harness wires when the harness was assembled and came to the line already on the harness.
I'd look through Dr.Rebuilds long list of grommets for one that looks appropriate.
If it's solid you could slit it to slip the wires into it and no one will be the wiser.
Regards,
Alan
Grommet question is an interesting one.
The AIM certainly shows a simple 1 hole grommet.
BUT…. it's not called out as a separate item# which means it likely was installed on the harness wires when the harness was assembled and came to the line already on the harness.
I'd look through Dr.Rebuilds long list of grommets for one that looks appropriate.
If it's solid you could slit it to slip the wires into it and no one will be the wiser.
Regards,
Alan
On another note, Some very angry person clobbered the alarm switch with a hammer. The F/G was all smashed in there. I had to repair it. I guess they heard that horn go off one too many times. Thanks, Rick
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Here Rick.. this might help you too... You do know that all the pictures and pages I post can be searched for and found on the web site under the tech pictures.
#7
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Thanks Willcox. That drawing is a great help. I've been checking your tech articles and tech videos today. Thanks for all you do for us. Rick
#8
Safety Car
There is no grommet. The switch plate is riveted with solid (not pop)rivets and the switch itself goes up through the riveted plate. It is accessed by removing the vent in front of the wiper door.
This is original 69.
This isn't just the alarm. It turns on the interior light in the rear compartment and if you leave the hood open overnight.... dead battery. Mine still works and I just use a small zip tie that I can slip over it to keep the plunger down if I am working on it or leaving it with the hood open.
It's actually kind of useless as there is no under hood light and if you want to steal the car, trying to pry the hood up isn't the answer....
This is original 69.
This isn't just the alarm. It turns on the interior light in the rear compartment and if you leave the hood open overnight.... dead battery. Mine still works and I just use a small zip tie that I can slip over it to keep the plunger down if I am working on it or leaving it with the hood open.
It's actually kind of useless as there is no under hood light and if you want to steal the car, trying to pry the hood up isn't the answer....
Last edited by CanadaGrant; 11-21-2014 at 09:36 PM.
#9
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Thread Starter
There is no grommet. The switch plate is riveted with solid (not pop)rivets and the switch itself goes up through the riveted plate. It is accessed by removing the vent in front of the wiper door.
This is original 69.
This isn't just the alarm. It turns on the interior light in the rear compartment and if you leave the hood open overnight.... dead battery. Mine still works and I just use a small zip tie that I can slip over it to keep the plunger down if I am working on it or leaving it with the hood open.
It's actually kind of useless as there is no under hood light and if you want to steal the car, trying to pry the hood up isn't the answer....
This is original 69.
This isn't just the alarm. It turns on the interior light in the rear compartment and if you leave the hood open overnight.... dead battery. Mine still works and I just use a small zip tie that I can slip over it to keep the plunger down if I am working on it or leaving it with the hood open.
It's actually kind of useless as there is no under hood light and if you want to steal the car, trying to pry the hood up isn't the answer....
I'm a bit perplexed at the rear compartment light being turned on with the hood alarm switch though. Thanks, Rick
Last edited by 69L46vert; 11-22-2014 at 07:39 AM.
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Hi Rick,
The 71 AIM shows pop-rivets too.
But, the item part number is for an oval headed soft aluminum rivet.
It sure looks like those rivets in CG's picture belong too!
Regards,
Alan
Here's the grommet in that location on a pretty much untouched 69, but it's without the alarm. Windshield washer hose?
The 71 AIM shows pop-rivets too.
But, the item part number is for an oval headed soft aluminum rivet.
It sure looks like those rivets in CG's picture belong too!
Regards,
Alan
Here's the grommet in that location on a pretty much untouched 69, but it's without the alarm. Windshield washer hose?
Last edited by Alan 71; 11-22-2014 at 07:55 AM.
#11
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Thanks for checking the rivet number. I may change it to solid. I have lots of leftover solid rivets.
It seemed odd to me that the aim showed a pop rivet with no backup washer. I did use backup washers with the pop rivets since it could ruin the fiberglass if pop rivets are installed without washers. So the solid rivet makes more sense. Thanks, Rick
#12
Safety Car
Hi Alan,
Thanks for checking the rivet number. I may change it to solid. I have lots of leftover solid rivets.
It seemed odd to me that the aim showed a pop rivet with no backup washer. I did use backup washers with the pop rivets since it could ruin the fiberglass if pop rivets are installed without washers. So the solid rivet makes more sense. Thanks, Rick
Thanks for checking the rivet number. I may change it to solid. I have lots of leftover solid rivets.
It seemed odd to me that the aim showed a pop rivet with no backup washer. I did use backup washers with the pop rivets since it could ruin the fiberglass if pop rivets are installed without washers. So the solid rivet makes more sense. Thanks, Rick
I just put a small zip tie under the plate and over the plunger when the hood is open to keep the interior light off. Just slip it forward to release the plunger or leave it in place. The switch is basically useless but it's factory stock and causes more problems than it solves. I guess if your hood isn't closed all the way the interior light is supposed to tell you that, like you can't see it... You can kind of see how I use the zip in the pic below and I just leave it in place all the time.