Cynical

Hello Forum,

From looking at numerous parts on vendor websites, I think it's safe to say that there is a difference between the 68-77 and 78-82 door panels. Fortunately my project came with brand new, never installed panels. But, unfortunately they have never been installed and have no witness marks or manuals for installation. Does anyone have pictures handy of installing the 78-82 door panels? I just bought screw sets for each door (upper and lower), because I am under the impression that the retainer will not work.

Here is the hardware I purchased - Upper & Lower Screw Sets

Any pictures of these screws installed, showing where they go would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

Joshua

Gale Banks 80'

When You buy a new set of door panels they don't come with any instructions on how to install them so your not missing out on anything. Its taken for granted that you just removed the old ones and can have a look at them. What You need is an Factory Assembly Manual or an AIM, that's what the workers at the factory used when they had a question on how something went together. The Screws are one thing, and the options are another. There are a bunch of different options the cars had and the corresponding holes to go with them. Generally none of the holes are cut and that's left up to you. The oddest one is if your car does not have power windows, you need to cut right threw the map pocket to mount the Lever, rendering the map pocket useless. As per factory specs. I'd have a look at the Screw holes on the door itself, these strip out easy and the standard fix is to put in larger screws and if this has been done previously it will make your screw kits useless. The Holes can be welded up and new ones drilled, or a small scrap of sheet metal can be riveted over the old hole and a new one drilled. Quit often a little hammer and dolly work is all that's needed. You can probably find the AIM page here or on the Web. Somebody might even post it.

DUB

spot -on!!!

Dub

0Willcox Corvette

This might help you figure out where the actual holes are. The forward number 9 screw is actually inside the map pocket, (unless you don't have power windows)

Cynical

Thanks, you guys rock! Yes I do have power windows.

Shark Racer

Those bubbles that say "25.62", "57.21", what units of measure are they?

SciVette

One option for stripped screw holes here is to drill out the hole cleanly to the appropriate size and JB-Weld in a drywall type anchor. Perhaps a bit Bubba, but it was an Alan71 suggestion that worked well for me in my '80 door panel rebuild.

0Willcox Corvette

it's the amount of beryllium crystals required to torque to the index of the flux capacitor.. lol.



Actually. I looked at the original page to see if there was a call out for that and I see none.. Odd.. I'll dig into this a bit more tomorrow.

Willcox.

A88FXRS

Wilcox is not correct on this. That is the number of turns required on the internal fusterus rods to correctly align door panel to the month and year car was built

DUB

But I have also used my Dremel tool and opened the hole up to an oval slot so the white oval plastic push in retainers can be pushed in...much like the ones used for the carpeted side console strips. That way they can be easily replaced when they get stripped out. STRICTLY for the lower two screws ONLY!!!

The upper screw location I use the square ones for the license plate bezel for the C2's and Early Chrome bumper C3's.

Take the time to do it once....it will be there for a long time.

And if you say..."Well that is all well and good for THAT door panel that has the hole in it and lines up with the plastic inserts" YES ...I agree...but I also know how to get location on the back of a new door panel so when I drill it...the screws go in as designed..

DUB

0Willcox Corvette

Dang it.. I knew that, the festerus rods slipped my mind..

Easy Mike

It is my understanding they are GM engineering references and may not be actual dimensions.