Freeze plug question?
#1
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Thread Starter
Freeze plug question?
Finally got the timing set and the carb rebuilt and started it up yesterday. Small leak from behind the drivers side motor mount.
Raised the engine up enough to get the motor mount out. There is very little room to install a new plug.
Is there a way to do this install?
Will a rubber expansion plug last if I use it as a last resort?
Not looking to pull the engine just for a freeze plug. Nice thinking GM for placing the freeze plug behind the motor mount
Raised the engine up enough to get the motor mount out. There is very little room to install a new plug.
Is there a way to do this install?
Will a rubber expansion plug last if I use it as a last resort?
Not looking to pull the engine just for a freeze plug. Nice thinking GM for placing the freeze plug behind the motor mount
#2
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Member Since: Dec 2013
Location: Carmichael California
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I did this recently. Put the freeze plug in enough for it to stay. We then used a
Wonder Bar (flat crowbar) and put it against the freeze plug to evenly distribute the force. Using an old 10 inch socket extension and a single jack we were able to slowly work it in. You will have to check it with your fingers at times to see if it is going in straight and make adjustments. Due to the angle of the extension it will take a lot of small hammer blows but it will go in. This is a 2 person job.
Wonder Bar (flat crowbar) and put it against the freeze plug to evenly distribute the force. Using an old 10 inch socket extension and a single jack we were able to slowly work it in. You will have to check it with your fingers at times to see if it is going in straight and make adjustments. Due to the angle of the extension it will take a lot of small hammer blows but it will go in. This is a 2 person job.
#4
Pro
Thread Starter
If I ever get the old one out I was thinking of using a socket that just fit into the plug and pressing it in by using the weight of the engine pressing on the motor mount...I have the engine drivers side pushed up with a scissors jack and can lower it slowly.
#5
Race Director
Is pulling the engine an option?
Might want to change them all........
You could have the engine in the air in 3 or 4 hours. You could easily spend that long messing with that one freeze plug.
Even throw a quick coat of paint and drop it right back down.
Just a thought.
Might want to change them all........
You could have the engine in the air in 3 or 4 hours. You could easily spend that long messing with that one freeze plug.
Even throw a quick coat of paint and drop it right back down.
Just a thought.
#6
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Member Since: Dec 2013
Location: Carmichael California
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I would like to know how that turns out. It would be simpler if it work. I tried using a socket and a crow bar and the motor just rocked, guess I could have chained the block. Good luck and please report back
Tom
Tom
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
Years ago my friend had a C3 and swore that what ever he was working on, that was the part GM started with and built the car around it.
#8
Race Director
Never pulled one out of a vette. Everything is so tight and cramped in the engine bay. I also have A/C and power steering so there are more things to take off/out to pull it. I spent an hour just adjusting the power steering pump up enough to get the engine mount bolt to go past the return fitting. I don't know how I will be able to re tighten it back up trying to keep tension on the belt and tighten the nuts at the same time.
Years ago my friend had a C3 and swore that what ever he was working on, that was the part GM started with and built the car around it.
Years ago my friend had a C3 and swore that what ever he was working on, that was the part GM started with and built the car around it.
Keep us up to date on how it goes!
#9
Melting Slicks
Finally got the timing set and the carb rebuilt and started it up yesterday. Small leak from behind the drivers side motor mount.
Raised the engine up enough to get the motor mount out. There is very little room to install a new plug.
Is there a way to do this install?
Will a rubber expansion plug last if I use it as a last resort?
Not looking to pull the engine just for a freeze plug. Nice thinking GM for placing the freeze plug behind the motor mount
Raised the engine up enough to get the motor mount out. There is very little room to install a new plug.
Is there a way to do this install?
Will a rubber expansion plug last if I use it as a last resort?
Not looking to pull the engine just for a freeze plug. Nice thinking GM for placing the freeze plug behind the motor mount
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
I replaced mine in the same spot after removing the motor mount (you can gain some working room by putting a support under the pan and jacking that side of the motor up a couple inches).
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
#11
Been there - first, getting the old plug out will be a huge challenge. Then driving in the new one without damaging it is even harder. You'd hate to do all that and have it still leak. Plus if one is rusted thin, they are ALL rusted thin. I would bite the bullit, pull the motor, change out all 8 (2 in the back). Heck, good time to clean & paint, put in new clutch & throwout, etc..
#12
Melting Slicks
I replaced mine in the same spot after removing the motor mount (you can gain some working room by putting a support under the pan and jacking that side of the motor up a couple inches).
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
#13
Drifting
Use just a slight bit smaller socket than will fit in the plug tightly. As you compress the plug you can get the socket so tightly wedged into the socket that it becomes difficult to remove. Don't know if the weight of the engine will press that id straight.
#14
Burning Brakes
There is a specific tool to install freeze plugs in tight areas. Never used one before but heard they work well. Not sure if it would be worthwhile to buy as you most likley will never use it again but might be worth it to not have to pull the engine. Hers a linkhttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/oe...FRWRfgodJrgAGg
#15
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Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
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Back when I had my 66 vette I pulled a 327 out of a kit car to get the vette going, one freeze plug leaked, it had rusted, so I was able to get it out but there was no way in hell I was gonna get a new metal plug hammered in,
I used the rubber one that you tighten a bolt to expand it in the hole,
It worked super well, never a drip for the next several years I daily drove the 66
I used the rubber one that you tighten a bolt to expand it in the hole,
It worked super well, never a drip for the next several years I daily drove the 66
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Out wuth the old, in with the new
After three hours of trying to find and finally make a puller I got the old plug out. Tried to tap in one side so the other would pivot out and the whole thing just started to go inward. Punched a hole and made a slide hammer out of threaded stock, a 3/4 drive socket for the slide and welded a cut off hex wrench to the end and pulled the sucker out.
Tried the tap a tap method but there was no room to get a run on the plug with a hammer. Used the socket and engine weight method along with a wedge pry bar and got it in flush with the block.
Gave me fits!
Up and down with the engine and installing the socket and repositioning the socket.
Tried the tap a tap method but there was no room to get a run on the plug with a hammer. Used the socket and engine weight method along with a wedge pry bar and got it in flush with the block.
Gave me fits!
Up and down with the engine and installing the socket and repositioning the socket.
Last edited by MBrianB; 01-19-2015 at 09:10 PM.
#17
Melting Slicks
Too bad it popped into the block - good idea on the mini-slide hammer.
How'd you get the hole in the plug to insert he slide head?
Pressing the new one in using the engine weight looks less risky than tapping.
How'd you get the hole in the plug to insert he slide head?
Pressing the new one in using the engine weight looks less risky than tapping.
#18
Pro
Thread Starter
It didn't go all the way in just started to go in so I went a different direction. The hole started with the rust hole and I just enlarged it with a pointed punch.
#19
Le Mans Master
RTV is not a good sealant to use on a freeze plug, if the block is clean, I use Locktite or doing it your way Permatex #2. They make freeze plug driver sets where the driver is on a ball swivel....perhaps you FLAPS has one to rent.
#20
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