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I did this recently. Put the freeze plug in enough for it to stay. We then used a
Wonder Bar (flat crowbar) and put it against the freeze plug to evenly distribute the force. Using an old 10 inch socket extension and a single jack we were able to slowly work it in. You will have to check it with your fingers at times to see if it is going in straight and make adjustments. Due to the angle of the extension it will take a lot of small hammer blows but it will go in. This is a 2 person job.
Forgot to mention I used a thick walled brass plug and some rtv as a sealant/lubricant
If I ever get the old one out I was thinking of using a socket that just fit into the plug and pressing it in by using the weight of the engine pressing on the motor mount...I have the engine drivers side pushed up with a scissors jack and can lower it slowly.
Is pulling the engine an option?
Might want to change them all........
You could have the engine in the air in 3 or 4 hours. You could easily spend that long messing with that one freeze plug.
Even throw a quick coat of paint and drop it right back down.
I would like to know how that turns out. It would be simpler if it work. I tried using a socket and a crow bar and the motor just rocked, guess I could have chained the block. Good luck and please report back
Is pulling the engine an option?
Might want to change them all........
You could have the engine in the air in 3 or 4 hours. You could easily spend that long messing with that one freeze plug.
Even throw a quick coat of paint and drop it right back down.
Just a thought.
Never pulled one out of a vette. Everything is so tight and cramped in the engine bay. I also have A/C and power steering so there are more things to take off/out to pull it. I spent an hour just adjusting the power steering pump up enough to get the engine mount bolt to go past the return fitting. I don't know how I will be able to re tighten it back up trying to keep tension on the belt and tighten the nuts at the same time.
Years ago my friend had a C3 and swore that what ever he was working on, that was the part GM started with and built the car around it.
Never pulled one out of a vette. Everything is so tight and cramped in the engine bay. I also have A/C and power steering so there are more things to take off/out to pull it. I spent an hour just adjusting the power steering pump up enough to get the engine mount bolt to go past the return fitting. I don't know how I will be able to re tighten it back up trying to keep tension on the belt and tighten the nuts at the same time.
Years ago my friend had a C3 and swore that what ever he was working on, that was the part GM started with and built the car around it.
It's really not that bad but if you're not comfortable with it then I'm sure you can change the one freeze plug without pulling the engine
Finally got the timing set and the carb rebuilt and started it up yesterday. Small leak from behind the drivers side motor mount.
Raised the engine up enough to get the motor mount out. There is very little room to install a new plug.
Is there a way to do this install?
Will a rubber expansion plug last if I use it as a last resort?
Not looking to pull the engine just for a freeze plug. Nice thinking GM for placing the freeze plug behind the motor mount
I replaced mine in the same spot after removing the motor mount (you can gain some working room by putting a support under the pan and jacking that side of the motor up a couple inches).
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
I replaced mine in the same spot after removing the motor mount (you can gain some working room by putting a support under the pan and jacking that side of the motor up a couple inches).
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
Been there - first, getting the old plug out will be a huge challenge. Then driving in the new one without damaging it is even harder. You'd hate to do all that and have it still leak. Plus if one is rusted thin, they are ALL rusted thin. I would bite the bullit, pull the motor, change out all 8 (2 in the back). Heck, good time to clean & paint, put in new clutch & throwout, etc..
I replaced mine in the same spot after removing the motor mount (you can gain some working room by putting a support under the pan and jacking that side of the motor up a couple inches).
Looks difficult but you'll be surprised at how easily the old one comes out using a screwdriver (just drive it through the plug and pry it out) and the new one goes in. I used a brass plug with some sealant and tapped it in using a socket that fit just inside the diameter of the plug and an extension - taps in with a hammer simple as you please.
RE: THB72 point on driving it in straight - this is where using a socket just big enough to fit inside the plug helps (found that tip on a much older thread). Because of the tight location it's difficult to apply force squarely on the plug. I found that by tapping on the socket edges you could easily correct the plug angle while driving it in. It may take many taps but it's very doable and WAY easier than pulling the motor. You can also place a pry bar across the socket and push/tap against the prybar if you have difficulty finding something to apply pressure to the socket directly.
Use just a slight bit smaller socket than will fit in the plug tightly. As you compress the plug you can get the socket so tightly wedged into the socket that it becomes difficult to remove. Don't know if the weight of the engine will press that id straight.
There is a specific tool to install freeze plugs in tight areas. Never used one before but heard they work well. Not sure if it would be worthwhile to buy as you most likley will never use it again but might be worth it to not have to pull the engine. Hers a linkhttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/oe...FRWRfgodJrgAGg
Back when I had my 66 vette I pulled a 327 out of a kit car to get the vette going, one freeze plug leaked, it had rusted, so I was able to get it out but there was no way in hell I was gonna get a new metal plug hammered in,
I used the rubber one that you tighten a bolt to expand it in the hole,
It worked super well, never a drip for the next several years I daily drove the 66
After three hours of trying to find and finally make a puller I got the old plug out. Tried to tap in one side so the other would pivot out and the whole thing just started to go inward. Punched a hole and made a slide hammer out of threaded stock, a 3/4 drive socket for the slide and welded a cut off hex wrench to the end and pulled the sucker out.
Tried the tap a tap method but there was no room to get a run on the plug with a hammer. Used the socket and engine weight method along with a wedge pry bar and got it in flush with the block.
Gave me fits!
Up and down with the engine and installing the socket and repositioning the socket.
Too bad it popped into the block - good idea on the mini-slide hammer.
How'd you get the hole in the plug to insert he slide head?
Pressing the new one in using the engine weight looks less risky than tapping.
Too bad it popped into the block - good idea on the mini-slide hammer.
How'd you get the hole in the plug to insert he slide head?
Pressing the new one in using the engine weight looks less risky than tapping.
It didn't go all the way in just started to go in so I went a different direction. The hole started with the rust hole and I just enlarged it with a pointed punch.
Forgot to mention I used a thick walled brass plug and some rtv as a sealant/lubricant
RTV is not a good sealant to use on a freeze plug, if the block is clean, I use Locktite or doing it your way Permatex #2. They make freeze plug driver sets where the driver is on a ball swivel....perhaps you FLAPS has one to rent.
RTV is not a good sealant to use on a freeze plug, if the block is clean, I use Locktite or doing it your way Permatex #2. They make freeze plug driver sets where the driver is on a ball swivel....perhaps you FLAPS has one to rent.
Freeze plug question?
