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Do I need a 'windage tray'?

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Old 02-14-2015, 02:24 PM
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Scottd
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Default Do I need a 'windage tray'?

My old 454 had a windage tray attached via long bolts threaded into the caps. My new short block does not have the extended bolts, so the windage tray will not have anything to bolt on to. Im using a stock GM oil pan that has some kind of internal door/baffle system (its not in front of me right now but I remember saying "ooh, cool, a little flappy door...) Should I be concerned about not installing the windage tray?
Old 02-14-2015, 02:54 PM
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TheSkunkWorks
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If for no other reason than to help keep more oil in the sump (which is reason enough) I'd do what is necessary to install one. Just make certain to re-torque the bottom end properly when you install the necessary stand-off bolts. And, if your new short block happens to have main studs do NOT mix in bolts among them.


Old 02-14-2015, 02:59 PM
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7t9l82
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the windage tray helps horsepower and keeps oil going where it is supposed to. i recommend using it . i have a 7 quart pan and kept mine.
Old 02-14-2015, 03:09 PM
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Scottd
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
If for no other reason than to help keep more oil in the sump (which is reason enough) I'd do what is necessary to install one. Just make certain to re-torque the bottom end properly when you install the necessary stand-off bolts. And, if your new short block happens to have main studs do NOT mix in bolts among them.


The bolt kit costs anywhere from 120-180 bucks. I only need the 4 that thread the windage tray. I looked at the ARP site and didnt see that they offered the 4 bolts separately. Im NOT spending 120 bucks for 4 bolts...(studs, whatever)...what else are my options here? Do people choose to omit the tray for any particular reason?
Old 02-14-2015, 03:28 PM
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MelWff
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how about summit racing
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...-block-mark-iv
Old 02-14-2015, 03:52 PM
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BKbroiler
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Unless you'll be operating at high rpm levels, you don't need a windage tray.
Old 02-14-2015, 04:06 PM
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TheSkunkWorks
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Originally Posted by Scottd
The bolt kit costs anywhere from 120-180 bucks. I only need the 4 that thread the windage tray. I looked at the ARP site and didnt see that they offered the 4 bolts separately. Im NOT spending 120 bucks for 4 bolts...(studs, whatever)...what else are my options here? Do people choose to omit the tray for any particular reason?


Well, I'd probably be the last one to ask where to draw that line, as I'm including a windage tray, fitted crank scraper, 5-gate RR pan, deburred & Glyptal sealed valley, blended/polished oil galleys, submerged pressure-balanced pump, 3-qt accumulator, hi-flow filtration and thermostatically controlled remote cooler in my 427 redux. So, I may well have spent more on its lubrication system alone than many have budgeted on entire engine rebuilds. YMMV
Old 02-14-2015, 05:05 PM
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Scottd
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Originally Posted by MelWff
Thats exactly the kind of kit Im looking for. Thanks.
Id like to hear more opinions about running or omitting the tray. Ill never see RPM'S higher than 5500, but I do like to launch pretty hard and run it WOT frequently.
Old 02-14-2015, 05:21 PM
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TheSkunkWorks
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At around only $10, a rear pan baffle certainly wouldn't be a bad idea for a hard launching car...
Old 02-14-2015, 05:25 PM
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ddawson
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I'm collecting parts for my rebuild and the Moroso windage tray and new pan are going on.
Old 02-14-2015, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
At around only $10, a rear pan baffle certainly wouldn't be a bad idea for a hard launching car...
Im liking the sounds of that. Is it a drop in part? I looked one up at summit and it looks as if it goes in between the oil pump and cap? Sounds a lot easier than removing main cap rods and such, but Im unsure as to if it will effect the oil pump?

Last edited by Scottd; 02-14-2015 at 06:51 PM.
Old 02-14-2015, 07:05 PM
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TheSkunkWorks
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Originally Posted by Scottd
Im liking the sounds of that. Is it a drop in part? I looked one up at summit and it looks as if it goes in between the oil pump and cap? Sounds a lot easier than removing main cap rods and such, but Im unsure as to if it will effect the oil pump?

Easy peasy install. Goes between the main cap and pump, and so thin that it shouldn't effect operation unless your pickup height is already critical. Hope that works for you.
Old 02-14-2015, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Easy peasy install. Goes between the main cap and pump, and so thin that it shouldn't effect operation unless your pickup height is already critical. Hope that works for you.
This will work in lieu of a windage tray? Sounds like we have my option.
Old 02-14-2015, 10:45 PM
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No....it's a separate piece to keep oil from climbing the back of the pan on hard launches. It's a good addition.

I'd certainly use a windage tray also. There's a reason GM put them in there. With the pan limitations to give ground/steering clearance...the rotating parts can pull oil out of the sump. A great big box stle racing pan with minimal oil in it keeps oil away from the crank without a tray...but you need something in there. Either stock GM or a good pan with internal baffling.

JIM
Old 02-14-2015, 11:24 PM
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Well do they make anything that DOESNT connect via the caps? Thats what started this whole thing.
Old 02-14-2015, 11:39 PM
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Yes, there are pans available with integral windage trays/screens.
Old 02-14-2015, 11:42 PM
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You can get pans with a tray built into them. Maybe it's easier to buy a better pan? What pan do you have now? Got pics? The GM LS-7 pan is a great piece and has a trap door. Maybe that's what you have?

GM sells the 4 studs for around $13 each.

JIM

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Old 02-15-2015, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
If for no other reason than to help keep more oil in the sump (which is reason enough) I'd do what is necessary to install one. Just make certain to re-torque the bottom end properly when you install the necessary stand-off bolts. And, if your new short block happens to have main studs do NOT mix in bolts among them.


Why shouldn't you mix bolts with studs?
Old 02-15-2015, 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
You can get pans with a tray built into them. Maybe it's easier to buy a better pan? What pan do you have now? Got pics? The GM LS-7 pan is a great piece and has a trap door. Maybe that's what you have?

GM sells the 4 studs for around $13 each.

JIM
Ive got a stock GM pan. The pan has some vertical baffles built into it as well as some little one way door. As far as I know its stock. (But as old as the engine.)
Old 02-15-2015, 07:17 PM
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TheSkunkWorks
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Originally Posted by T-TOP TOM
Why shouldn't you mix bolts with studs?


Clamping force variations, which could alter the roundness of the main journal bore(s).


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