When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You are going to get a lot of "why would you do that" comments, and some of them might be valid. I was going to do that on my '78 just because it is my car and I wanted it to be a little different when someone looked under the hood. I tracked down and pulled everythign I needed from the RECYLING YARD off a 95 blazer. As far as I could tell everything would have worked and fit under the hood. (But then I fell into the YOU MIGHT AS WELL trap, and now I am starting to put a L98 TPI into the car.) Got it all for $200. I still have all the brackets, the alternator, water pump, pulleys , PS pump etc to convert over sitting in a box. If you might be interested, PM me. Good luck on your project.
a friend of mine on this forum is in the process of doing just that and i can't begin to tell you what all he has been through, nor do i feel the need to repeat some of it.
If you are looking to go the economy route for a serpentine system, there are a few things to watch for.
#1.
be sure the AC bracket on the passenger side will mate with the three accessory holes in your head. The bracket I got did not line up with the accessory holes in my aftermarket aluminum heads. The inner most mount on the bracket needed to be relocated approx
1 inch inboard. You need to mount at all locations, or face a cracked bracket down the road.
#2.
If the system you pick utilizes support rods at the AC bracket and alternator, you will need to make provision for them. Failure to do so will likely result in a cracked bracket down the road.
#3.
There could be a problem with the clocking of the alternator output lug on the alt body. My power lug contacted my aluminum valve covers. Something to look at, as most alternators have the power lug on the back, not the outer edge.
#4.
Your power steering pump reservoir return nipple may not be well suited for your application and need to be swapped out for one with the return better located. This is another thing to consider.
#5.
The idle pulley, not the tensioner, may be against your upper control arm/cross shaft. It may be that you simply need to turn the idler pulley so it faces toward the inside for proper clearance.
These are just some of the problems I needed to overcome installing a 93 Camaro system on my 79 Corvette. I forgot to include, both side brackets interfered with the water pump and could not be bolted in. Both brackets and water pump needed to be shaved to gain proper clearance and mount to my block. Remember, this system requires a reverse flow water pump. Understand, my engine has mostly aftermarket parts, headers and is a Gen 1 block. Choose a system where you are sure all parts will mount to your engine.
Also, stock exhaust manifolds are much more friendly to installing factory support rods. I needed to custom fab my own, you dare not leave home without them. Don't let what I say discourage you, just keep these issues in mind when picking a system to use and avoid a nightmare. After all the trouble I went through, a $2200 March system started to look very attractive. Oh-and BTW....someone on another forum told me that the system I bought was a direct bolt in for my application because he had done it. The internet is not always a good source of information, do you homework and check before you lay down your money.
On my 75, I went with a freebie setup from a 92 3/4 ton gmc. I eliminated the alternator brace, no problems several years later. It all bolted right up, no problem ( I have Vortec heads). I also used the hydro-boost from the same truck and the ps pump had 2 return nipples. I switched to a sanden compressor that is too close to the hood, I need to modify that bracket slightly, but the price was right and I'm happy with it.
If/when I do this, I'd want to do the GMPP setup they use on the Turn Key ZZ5. This is basically an L98 Camaro setup. The brackets themselves can be had for pretty cheap if you locate an original set. The hard part is that you need to get all the right accessories - water pump, power steering pump, alternator and AC.
If/when I do this, I'd want to do the GMPP setup they use on the Turn Key ZZ5. This is basically an L98 Camaro setup. The brackets themselves can be had for pretty cheap if you locate an original set. The hard part is that you need to get all the right accessories - water pump, power steering pump, alternator and AC.
This is the kit I used on my ZZ383. To make it all work I needed the following mods.
1. Idler pully needs to be installed reverse and then you need a 1" longer belt.
2. you need to use the supplied Water pump (reverse flow)
3. you need to use a modified upper rad hose (1995 ford bronco) a cut off one end.
4. wire in the new alternator connections
5. if you have AC may need a modified hose to reach the AC unit.
6. wire in the AC
7. you may have clearance problems with the lower pully and the frame. my 78 had plenty but some early C3' may differ.
8. you will need to remove the power steering connector (high pressure) on your old unit to the new pump, make / modify low pressure hose to fit. Original low pressure side points down, the supplied power steering unit low pressure side points up.
just get a march pully set up complete bolt on, very easy.
I have a March system that I can't get aligned properly and they sold me the wrong Ps pump. After a bunch of calls and emails, I had to put my 78 a way for winter. Hoping they can help me in the spring, but at 1600 dollars I am disappointed.
I was hoping to upgrade to a modern ac pump and CS130 alternator.
'88-91 vette serp drive on my L98 engine, been there since '95, bought off a wrecked vette........must use all the bolt holes on the a/c side, the alt is not that critical, I run an airpump eliminator pully setup.....
I used brackets/pulleys from a '89 Blazer on my '79 with vortec heads. Bolted right on with no problems and plenty of hood clearance, and the crank pulley clears the cross member. You need the reverse water pump, and I fabricated radiator hoses, and yes adapt the support rods. The factory set-up was flimsey and the alternator belt flopped around like crazy.
I have a frontrunner from vintage air. Very expensive but it works. Mine is a big block so the crank pulley is much closer to the cross member then a small block but I just notched it. I like how compact the entire setup is. Its all in the front of the motor between the heads ... no overhanging accessories.
The only other fitment issue was the power steering pump was too close to the drivers control arm. I just drilled a new hole for the lower bolt and indexed the pump in about 1-2 inches and got a shorter belt and that made all the difference.
Small block should be easier I would think. I see allot of guys using the GM version which look really good to me and is very cost conscious.
This pic doesnt show the powersteering as I added it later but you get the point.
Stock serp brackets from third gen camaro with alt on driverside, bolt on my 406, used support brackets to intake, zz3 replacement heads didnt have all accesory holes drilled so I couldnt use all on the ac side, my ac doesnt work currently so my bracket havent had any issues. The smog pump brackets are there but no pump or delete kit, does not hit frame or control arms
Installed the GM Performance Parts Catalog Serpentine kit on my 68. Worked out fine. No real problems. You'll need an electric fan because the water pump is reverse rotation. Cost wise, if you buy the kit with new water pump, alternator, PS pump, its a particularly good deal. It fits very well underneath a SB hood. There's some other none problem details....I have to go to bed now. I have several posts where i detailed all the nit-noi's..none a problem or expensive.
02-24-2015, 06:13 PM
glad i didnt have to type all that.
