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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
It may be the "me too" wheel of the C2/C3 community, but the American Torq Thrust is just too cheap of a wheel to pass up, Especially when my next cheapest alternative was approximately $800 per wheel with my top choice coming in around $1475/wheel.
These are 18x10 5.75"BS Torq Thrust IIs in PVD finish. Not sure I think they look as good as the US Mags U202s off my Chevelle, but hopefully they will grow on me over time. I think they should be much easier to keep clean though with black inners and an easily washable face/surface.
I did find a very slight rub on both sides with regular driving. The front of the wheel just barely rubs on the frame rail. I'll take the wheel off this weekend and see if a slight bit of grinding will create enough clearance. I think this is where a 5.5" BS plays a role in clearance. That 1/4" would be just enough to push the wheel barrel away from the frame. I might play with a 1/8 spacer and see if that gives me enough room before I go to grinding.
Difficult to see in the photo, unless you know what you are looking for and at.
when you get an chance, is there any way you could take a photo down the side of the car....just curious how they look in relation to the fender lip with the 5.75 backspace. Thanks! The car looks great!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
when you get an chance, is there any way you could take a photo down the side of the car....just curious how they look in relation to the fender lip with the 5.75 backspace. Thanks! The car looks great!
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30
man you work fast! Thanks very much, and Im jealous as hell about both the garage and the car!
No problem! I am pretty happy with the car and the garage! We just moved in mid-Feb so it is still coming together but I love having a place I can work on the cars. The lift is a life saver! I came home, put the car up a few inches off the ground and swapped wheels in a matter of minutes. Something that someone could easily do with a floor jack, but it was effortless.
On a different note, I can see why everyone things the wheels on the Chevelle are so much bigger than 18s... The stepped lip of the Torq Thrusts do make them look smaller than 18s, in my opinion. Either that, or the US Mags just look that much larger, even though the exact same size.
Hey OP, gimme your address, I want to drop by and steal them wheels/tires off that vette.....phreaking BEAUTIFUL, that is the exact wheel style I totally LOVE since maybe 50 years now.....I try to mimic that style with '89 vette rims, painted up in the spoke region, and aluminum rims, but those 5 spoke rims are still the best....
and that Chevelle, I used to have a GTO/Lemans convertible....but only '79 Firebird rims....interesting how we have same/similar car desires.....
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Just as a quick update.
I had a pretty significant rub on the inner corner of both wheels at the track this weekend. I am going to see if stepping up to a 1/4" spacer will help as that basically puts it at a 5.5" backspace, which is what is typically recommended. I just want to be sure the wheel does not push out too far and rub on the fiberglass.
I don't think normal street driving will be an issue but pushing it at Road Atlanta generated a lot of burnt rubber and smoke in turn 1.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
I guess it was a good thing I stopped making passes Sunday...
The bolts holding rear strut rod mount to the diff were about to back all the way out.
The lower mount had a pretty decent gap where it was moving around.
Also, lots more rubbing on the inners than I thought. I have some 1/4" hub and wheel-centric spacers being made to see if that cures the rubbing. I don't think it was anything like this on the street so the 18x10s may become the "street" wheel with slicks going on the 17s.
I also plan to stiffen the rear composite spring to the stiffest setting before going out again. It is only rubbing when the suspension has a full load on it in the corner and you are really pushing the car hard. Hopefully the combination of 1/8" more spacer and the stiffer suspension will help get the tire off the wheel well. I'm guessing the struts moving around, even if just minimally, were not helping things any either.
From your pics above along the sides of the car, it looks like you're running a lot of rear negative camber, which would make the rubbing worse in exactly the spot you're seeing the heaviest rubbing on the left side, especially if you haven't changed the camber curve from stock (but I see some aftermarket suspension components so I'm guessing you have). How much rear camber?
Will you have enough wheel stud length to accommodate 1/4" spacers?
Also, be careful stiffening only the rear spring rate, it may add oversteer.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Originally Posted by 69autoXr
From your pics above along the sides of the car, it looks like you're running a lot of rear negative camber, which would make the rubbing worse in exactly the spot you're seeing the heaviest rubbing on the left side, especially if you haven't changed the camber curve from stock (but I see some aftermarket suspension components so I'm guessing you have). How much rear camber?
Will you have enough wheel stud length to accommodate 1/4" spacers?
Also, be careful stiffening only the rear spring rate, it may add oversteer.
Good luck.
Thanks, I'll have to pull my alignment sheet out and see where the rear was set up but I do know we added a bit of negative camber as the intention was always to track the car occasionally. I don't do my alignments and have a shop called Gran Turismo East here in metro-Atlanta do the work as they pretty well known and have a great reputation around the track. Negative camber could certainly play a role in the rub at the top of the wheel well.
I'll set the front monoleaf to the same stiffness as the rear to keep the car balanced but as it ran, there was not a rear sway bar so the oversteer was pretty minimal. I did just receive a VanSteel offset trailing arm rear sway bar that I may put on before the next track day but overall I was relatively happy with the balance of the car, if not lacking a bit of front bite at times.
Thanks, I'll have to pull my alignment sheet out and see where the rear was set up but I do know we added a bit of negative camber as the intention was always to track the car occasionally. I don't do my alignments and have a shop called Gran Turismo East here in metro-Atlanta do the work as they pretty well known and have a great reputation around the track. Negative camber could certainly play a role in the rub at the top of the wheel well.
I'll set the front monoleaf to the same stiffness as the rear to keep the car balanced but as it ran, there was not a rear sway bar so the oversteer was pretty minimal. I did just receive a VanSteel offset trailing arm rear sway bar that I may put on before the next track day but overall I was relatively happy with the balance of the car, if not lacking a bit of front bite at times.
Not just for clearance should you reduce your camber gain. Big modern tires don't like/need as much camber as did those being fitted to the C3 back in the day. So, until/unless you prove a different rear camber curve actually works better, I would urge you to set your baseline inner camber strut bolt CLs 1/2" below their original factory height relative to the diff. FWIW, coming off 7 at Road Atlanta would be an excellent place to evaluate your rear setup.
And, in the bigger picture, if you seriously want to dial in your car's handling don't be afraid to play with static camber, or any other setting for that matter. You're far more likely to win the lotto than to hit on the optimum setup right out of the box. In any event, do clean up your inner fender wells of sharp objects that could cut down a tire. Sidewalls distort a lot more than you might think possible under higher cornering loads.
As for tuning understeer/oversteer balance, please do NOT make arbitrary changes without fully diagnosing and understanding where you are currently. Many a car that seems as if on rails at 7 or 8/10ths will bite you in the backside when you actually get to the limits. Much better to maximize rear grip (preferably without rear bar) and sort from the understeer end of the equation, especially when taking on a genuine he-man road course such as RA.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Originally Posted by Spezzy
Any updates? Just came across your thread and am considering 18x10 with 5.5 backspace all around for my '76 after seeing you were able to fit it.
I have a set of track wheels on order that are 18x10 5.5" BS but have also changed my suspension and trailing arms to coilovers now. You "should" be able to fit the 18x10s on the rear but if you have concern, you could always order two, knowing they should fit the back and then test fit them on the front.
Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Not just for clearance should you reduce your camber gain. Big modern tires don't like/need as much camber as did those being fitted to the C3 back in the day. So, until/unless you prove a different rear camber curve actually works better, I would urge you to set your baseline inner camber strut bolt CLs 1/2" below their original factory height relative to the diff. FWIW, coming off 7 at Road Atlanta would be an excellent place to evaluate your rear setup.
And, in the bigger picture, if you seriously want to dial in your car's handling don't be afraid to play with static camber, or any other setting for that matter. You're far more likely to win the lotto than to hit on the optimum setup right out of the box. In any event, do clean up your inner fender wells of sharp objects that could cut down a tire. Sidewalls distort a lot more than you might think possible under higher cornering loads.
As for tuning understeer/oversteer balance, please do NOT make arbitrary changes without fully diagnosing and understanding where you are currently. Many a car that seems as if on rails at 7 or 8/10ths will bite you in the backside when you actually get to the limits. Much better to maximize rear grip (preferably without rear bar) and sort from the understeer end of the equation, especially when taking on a genuine he-man road course such as RA.
HTH
Lots of information here and I have some work/testing to do once I get my new outer axles from Tom's so I can get the rest of my suspension put back together. I now have the full Ridetech coilover front/rear suspension under the car. I have 3 track days planned next month so I'll have plenty of opportunity to test the alignment.
Debating buying a decent kit so I can do some self-alignment at home and possible make changes at the track if needed.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
C3 of Year Winner (track prepared) 2019
Note, the 18x10 American Racing PVD finished wheels (5.75" backspacing) do not clear front Baer 14" 6P calipers without a 1/4" spacer. They just barely rub the edges of the caliper. If the spoke did not curve in, it would have been fine. The rears had plenty of room.
My new custom American with the correct 5.5" BS should be sitting on my door step when I get home so hopefully they fit correctly.
Thanks for taking this on. Can't wait to see the 5.5 backspace on your car. Will probably order 18x10 5.5 backspace all around for my car then, provided it clears yours.
Nice. That is some serious rubber you have under there. Im Curious on how it all fits.
My new car wil be wearing 315s in the rear and hoping to get 275 on the front. Never can have to much rubber underneath
04-15-2015, 08:53 PM
