Installing side pipes, how high to raise front of car?
05-21-2015, 05:23 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Installing side pipes, how high to raise front of car?
It appears the easiest way to install side pipe headers is from below.
For those that did it this way, how high did you raise the car for access? Are jack stands ok or drive on ramps? What did you do and any pics?
TIA.
For those that did it this way, how high did you raise the car for access? Are jack stands ok or drive on ramps? What did you do and any pics?
TIA.
05-21-2015, 06:21 AM
#2
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
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Royal Canadian Navy
I have hooker side pipes. I used my floor jack with a maximum lift of about 18" under the crossmember forward of the engine and floor jacks on both frame rails and they slipped in from underneath without any problems. However, I have a 4-sp and had to remove the z-bar and also the oil pressure switch. I don't have A/C so the right side was even easier.
05-21-2015, 06:48 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. Mine is also a 4 speed and I do have air con but it is not working so it may well be removed at the time of the swap.
05-21-2015, 09:23 AM
#4
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Member Since: Mar 2011
Location: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Posts: 5,338
Received 1,199 Likes
on
925 Posts
Royal Canadian Navy
I may have had to put a block of wood on the jacking pad to gain an extra few inches. If the car isn't raised high enough, you'll never get them on.
05-21-2015, 11:33 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
A lift would be so much easier.....wonder if I could convince the wife we need one!
05-21-2015, 06:42 PM
#7
Team Owner
Set the headers on the ground, with the flanges/primaries oriented "upright", as they'd be in the car. Measure from the top of the flange to the ground. THAT is how high the car has to be off the ground, as the whole kit and caboddle has to slide under the car, THEN up into the engine compartment.
05-23-2015, 10:15 AM
#9
Had to raise the car about 40cm. Can't use a drive on ramps.
08-02-2015, 11:34 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Finally got the old girl up in the air but with my small jack and jack stands its not quite high enough!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit!
08-02-2015, 01:48 PM
#11
Finally got the old girl up in the air but with my small jack and jack stands its not quite high enough!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit!
Im getting about 40cm or 15 1/2 inches from floor to bottom of frame rail so Im going to order a larger jack with a max saddle height of 52cm or 20 1/2 inches and also get some axle stands to suit!
08-02-2015, 01:57 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not getting caught on the axle stands and I dont appear to have plenty of room! New jack and axle stands on order so hopefully tomorrow I will have drivers side installed.Dumb question but I didnt think to put the axle stands under the frame horns, I assume this is an OK place to put them?
Going back to leadfoots post, there is no way the headers will simply go under and slide up, as far as I can see they need to go in and under at an angle to go around steering box etc. Monkey, did you remove the senders on the drivers side of the block?
Last edited by jotto; 08-02-2015 at 02:00 PM.
08-02-2015, 02:46 PM
#13
Mine seem to be getting hung up at 15 1/2 inches. Not getting caught on the axle stands and I dont appear to have plenty of room! New jack and axle stands on order so hopefully tomorrow I will have drivers side installed.
Dumb question but I didnt think to put the axle stands under the frame horns, I assume this is an OK place to put them?
Going back to leadfoots post, there is no way the headers will simply go under and slide up, as far as I can see they need to go in and under at an angle to go around steering box etc. Monkey, did you remove the senders on the drivers side of the block?
Not getting caught on the axle stands and I dont appear to have plenty of room! New jack and axle stands on order so hopefully tomorrow I will have drivers side installed.Dumb question but I didnt think to put the axle stands under the frame horns, I assume this is an OK place to put them?
Going back to leadfoots post, there is no way the headers will simply go under and slide up, as far as I can see they need to go in and under at an angle to go around steering box etc. Monkey, did you remove the senders on the drivers side of the block?
At 16" at the front door edge I had enough room to go in with the collectors tilted up until the flanges cleared the frame then roll up into place. The oil sender needs to be removed along with plugs on left side. Needs a dent put in the tube at the steering box or it touched the box. Right side was easier. Went in with plugs in and wires pulled. Easiest headers I ever installed. I have the stainless maximums. I think OBX is the same. Both are Hooker copies.
For the "T" bolts going into the side frame for the side pipes I put those spring nuts on (as I call them) flat push on that keep the "T" bolts in place making it easier to put the rubber washers, washers and nuts on with out fighting with the "T"bolts.
08-02-2015, 07:02 PM
#15
Jack stands at the front in front of suspension was very sturdy.
At 16" at the front door edge I had enough room to go in with the collectors tilted up until the flanges cleared the frame then roll up into place. The oil sender needs to be removed along with plugs on left side. Needs a dent put in the tube at the steering box or it touched the box. Right side was easier. Went in with plugs in and wires pulled. Easiest headers I ever installed. I have the stainless maximums. I think OBX is the same. Both are Hooker copies.
For the "T" bolts going into the side frame for the side pipes I put those spring nuts on (as I call them) flat push on that keep the "T" bolts in place making it easier to put the rubber washers, washers and nuts on with out fighting with the "T"bolts.
At 16" at the front door edge I had enough room to go in with the collectors tilted up until the flanges cleared the frame then roll up into place. The oil sender needs to be removed along with plugs on left side. Needs a dent put in the tube at the steering box or it touched the box. Right side was easier. Went in with plugs in and wires pulled. Easiest headers I ever installed. I have the stainless maximums. I think OBX is the same. Both are Hooker copies.
For the "T" bolts going into the side frame for the side pipes I put those spring nuts on (as I call them) flat push on that keep the "T" bolts in place making it easier to put the rubber washers, washers and nuts on with out fighting with the "T"bolts.
08-03-2015, 03:53 AM
#19
