Quick question about changing fuel pump
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Quick question about changing fuel pump
Hi all,
My fuel pump died on me last weekend. I've ordered a new one and it should be here tomorrow.
I've researched how to install these and it seems pretty simple. Many people recommend putting a longer 3/8" bolt into the front of the block to hold the rod "up" so that you can slip the "arm" of the fuel pump under it. My question is this...do I need to put that longer bolt in BEFORE I remover the existing pump? Or, can I remove the existing pump, then left the rod up with my finger and at the same time, thread in the longer 3/8" bolt until I can feel/see that it is holding it up?
My concern about doing it with the existing pump still in place is that I don't want to thread that 3/8" bolt in too far and damage that internal rod. I would feel more comfortable doing it the second way.
Look forward to any suggestions/input.
My fuel pump died on me last weekend. I've ordered a new one and it should be here tomorrow.
I've researched how to install these and it seems pretty simple. Many people recommend putting a longer 3/8" bolt into the front of the block to hold the rod "up" so that you can slip the "arm" of the fuel pump under it. My question is this...do I need to put that longer bolt in BEFORE I remover the existing pump? Or, can I remove the existing pump, then left the rod up with my finger and at the same time, thread in the longer 3/8" bolt until I can feel/see that it is holding it up?
My concern about doing it with the existing pump still in place is that I don't want to thread that 3/8" bolt in too far and damage that internal rod. I would feel more comfortable doing it the second way.
Look forward to any suggestions/input.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Mike...if I do it the way I want to (hold it up with my finger while tightening the longer 3/8" bolt)...does it matter how high I hold that rod up? Can I just hold it up as high as I can to be safe?
Teflon tape/sealer...are you meaning on the two fuel pump mounting bolts, or the longer 3/8" bolt?
Teflon tape/sealer...are you meaning on the two fuel pump mounting bolts, or the longer 3/8" bolt?
#4
Le Mans Master
Some people just take the rod out and put some grease on it then shove it back in the hole. The grease will hold it in place until you get the pump on. Using the threaded hole works too.
I would use a thin smear of permatex ultra black on each sealing surface to insure a leak proof seal when you all done. That pump face area seems particularly likely to seep oil over time.
I would use a thin smear of permatex ultra black on each sealing surface to insure a leak proof seal when you all done. That pump face area seems particularly likely to seep oil over time.
#5
Melting Slicks
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Put the engine on #1 TDC which positions the fuel pump lobe directly away from the fuel pump (something very few people know). Pull the old fuel pump off then lift the push rod up and screw a 1" long 3/8" bolt into the front/bottom '55 thru '57 motor mount hole until it contacts the push rod and your new pump will drop right in easily. That front/bottom hole will have a short 3/8" bolt with copper washer on it so when you're done be sure to remove the longer bolt and put the short one (with washer on it) back in snugly.
#6
Le Mans Master
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I just replaced my fuel pump last year after 40 years and 45,000 miles of use on my 75.
I used the grease trick to keep the rod up/in there, replaced the pump and hoses and re/installed the new pump.
1. It starts better/runs some what better
2. I have noticed that i don't have to pump the pedal so much to get it to run on a cold day-.
Just re/used the old bolts, i did mike out the rod and it was only 003. out.
I used the grease trick to keep the rod up/in there, replaced the pump and hoses and re/installed the new pump.
1. It starts better/runs some what better
2. I have noticed that i don't have to pump the pedal so much to get it to run on a cold day-.
Just re/used the old bolts, i did mike out the rod and it was only 003. out.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Put the engine on #1 TDC which positions the fuel pump lobe directly away from the fuel pump (something very few people know). Pull the old fuel pump off then lift the push rod up and screw a 1" long 3/8" bolt into the front/bottom '55 thru '57 motor mount hole until it contacts the push rod and your new pump will drop right in easily. That front/bottom hole will have a short 3/8" bolt with copper washer on it so when you're done be sure to remove the longer bolt and put the short one (with washer on it) back in snugly.
#8
Le Mans Master
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Check for leaks after start up.
#9
Instructor
Jeff
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hi Guys,
I'm making progress - thanks for your help. I was able to get the old pump off...and did a "dry run" install on the new pump (did not put sealant on the gasket). I think I have it. Question...if I am able to get it bolted up tight, does that mean I have the rod in the proper location? I'm wondering how I will know if the rod accidentally slipped and got below the lever of the pump? If the rod did slip down and got in the wrong position, is it even possible to bolt up?
I'm making progress - thanks for your help. I was able to get the old pump off...and did a "dry run" install on the new pump (did not put sealant on the gasket). I think I have it. Question...if I am able to get it bolted up tight, does that mean I have the rod in the proper location? I'm wondering how I will know if the rod accidentally slipped and got below the lever of the pump? If the rod did slip down and got in the wrong position, is it even possible to bolt up?
#11
Burning Brakes
if the rod slips, you can't get the pump installed. only one way it fits. BTW, the quick and easy way is to just use an old hacksaw blade. Slip it in under the rod, hold the rod up, slip in the pump, pull out the hacksaw blade and tighten it up...the bolt and grease methods take too long and are too messy for me...surprised nobody mentioned this.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
if the rod slips, you can't get the pump installed. only one way it fits. BTW, the quick and easy way is to just use an old hacksaw blade. Slip it in under the rod, hold the rod up, slip in the pump, pull out the hacksaw blade and tighten it up...the bolt and grease methods take too long and are too messy for me...surprised nobody mentioned this.
#13
Race Director
#14
Le Mans Master
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The old grease trick works even better when you put the greased rod in the FREEZER for about 30 minutes or so. The frozen grease sticks so much better and doesn't get all over you.
Richard
Richard
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I know...I'm still learning a lot (as you can tell by my dumb questions) so I like to compare different parts and make sure I'm getting the right part and a decent quality part. Plus, I don't have a lot of time to work on the car, so waiting a couple days for the part isn't a huge deal for me.
#16
Drifting
Listen, I just did this last week, took 25 minutes
Disconnect battery
Jack passenger side of car up and support with jack stands,
Disconnect fuel inlet line, fuel is going to rush out, pull hose up above tank level and put a 3/8 bolt in the hose and tighten the clamp, move the hose out of your way
Next disconnect fuel outlet line from pump, this may or not be a solid steel line, if you cannot undo it from underneath the car no biggie, you can still wiggle it out from the top, disconnect it from the carb, as well, use a flare wrench, 5/8" and a 1" to hold the nut on the body of the carb, if it a Q-jet. This is a great time to change fuel filters.
Undo two 9/16" bolts from pump, pull pump off, don't worry about the fuel pump shaft rod, it's not going anywhere
Compare old a new pumps for comparability
Take new pump and clean gasket surface, it will have manufacturing oil on it, use acetone, brake cleaner, etc. when dry, put a light coat of RTV gasket sealant and glue gasket to pump let this set up for a few minutes. Now is a good time to take those pump bolts to a wire wheel and clean up the old sealant on the threads.
Clean the pump mount area now of all the old gasket material and oil residue for new gasket to seal to a clean surface.
Now go find a old hack saw blade and bend it at a 45* angle 6 or so inches from one end. This will be a little leaver to slide that shaft up and hold it so you can get the pump lever in.
Start bolts through new pump and gasket and again put a light coat of RTV on gasket and some on bolts. Don't be cheap but do go crazy either
Before putting pump in place a liberal amount of grease on the pump lever
Now take hacksaw blade slide pump shaft up towards cam as far as it can go, don't worry about TDC it does not matter it's a pain in the behind for only a few minutes, slide the pump lever in, while still hold hack saw blade between block and pump, start both bolts. Take a bright light and shine it down make sure it all looks good with seating, slide hacksaw blade out, now tighten bolts all the way and torque to spec
Reconnect fuel lines, if you have the steel pump discharge line, I like to put pipe dope on them before I tighten, just a little, again it's a flare so you don't have to go nuts, make sure flare is fully seated as you tighten and watch that you do not cross thread.
Lower car, clear everything out of your way, tools etc
Pull coil wire off distributer, reconnect battery and turn the engine over for 20 or so seconds to get fuel up to carb. Check for leaks at pump and carb. Put coil wire back on.
VAROOM! Rumble Rumble Rumble, while warming up
Clean up, you will smell like horsepower, go drive it with a smile
Have a celebratory beer and then clean up your tools
And yes I had to order my pump too, nobody has a stock SBC pump, I ordered from Summit
Disconnect battery
Jack passenger side of car up and support with jack stands,
Disconnect fuel inlet line, fuel is going to rush out, pull hose up above tank level and put a 3/8 bolt in the hose and tighten the clamp, move the hose out of your way
Next disconnect fuel outlet line from pump, this may or not be a solid steel line, if you cannot undo it from underneath the car no biggie, you can still wiggle it out from the top, disconnect it from the carb, as well, use a flare wrench, 5/8" and a 1" to hold the nut on the body of the carb, if it a Q-jet. This is a great time to change fuel filters.
Undo two 9/16" bolts from pump, pull pump off, don't worry about the fuel pump shaft rod, it's not going anywhere
Compare old a new pumps for comparability
Take new pump and clean gasket surface, it will have manufacturing oil on it, use acetone, brake cleaner, etc. when dry, put a light coat of RTV gasket sealant and glue gasket to pump let this set up for a few minutes. Now is a good time to take those pump bolts to a wire wheel and clean up the old sealant on the threads.
Clean the pump mount area now of all the old gasket material and oil residue for new gasket to seal to a clean surface.
Now go find a old hack saw blade and bend it at a 45* angle 6 or so inches from one end. This will be a little leaver to slide that shaft up and hold it so you can get the pump lever in.
Start bolts through new pump and gasket and again put a light coat of RTV on gasket and some on bolts. Don't be cheap but do go crazy either
Before putting pump in place a liberal amount of grease on the pump lever
Now take hacksaw blade slide pump shaft up towards cam as far as it can go, don't worry about TDC it does not matter it's a pain in the behind for only a few minutes, slide the pump lever in, while still hold hack saw blade between block and pump, start both bolts. Take a bright light and shine it down make sure it all looks good with seating, slide hacksaw blade out, now tighten bolts all the way and torque to spec
Reconnect fuel lines, if you have the steel pump discharge line, I like to put pipe dope on them before I tighten, just a little, again it's a flare so you don't have to go nuts, make sure flare is fully seated as you tighten and watch that you do not cross thread.
Lower car, clear everything out of your way, tools etc
Pull coil wire off distributer, reconnect battery and turn the engine over for 20 or so seconds to get fuel up to carb. Check for leaks at pump and carb. Put coil wire back on.
VAROOM! Rumble Rumble Rumble, while warming up
Clean up, you will smell like horsepower, go drive it with a smile
Have a celebratory beer and then clean up your tools
And yes I had to order my pump too, nobody has a stock SBC pump, I ordered from Summit
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DavidKrull (05-16-2023)
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
This job isn't overly complicated, but access is a bit tough due to the exhaust headers I have on it, as well as the lower radiator hose...if that wasn't there, it would be a lot easier. Since nobody has mentioned this hose, I almost wonder if I have an incorrect hose...but that's for another day!
#18
Burning Brakes
there is no reason whatsoever to remove the pump rod. it is lubricated via the engine oil. if you want to do extra work, and get dirtier, you can follow that method. I leave the plate on and do it the way I explained. it is a 15 minute job.
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ok - last question. How does that rod connect to the engine? Not that I want to remove it, but my concern is that in my attempts to lift the rod a few times, I could feel it turn/spin between my fingers. Is it just simply threaded on to something that is up in the engine? If so, is it a standard thread (righty tighty)? I'm wondering if before I put the pump back on if I should grab it and make sure I turn it (tighten it) with my fingers so that I haven't inadvertently loosened it and caused a potential problem down the road.
#20
Le Mans Master
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The rod does not connect to the engine, it just slides up and down.
The top end of the rod rides on the cam shaft.
The cam pushes the rod down and the spring in the pump pushes it up.
The top end of the rod rides on the cam shaft.
The cam pushes the rod down and the spring in the pump pushes it up.