Hi all,
My fuel pump died on me last weekend. I've ordered a new one and it should be here tomorrow.

I've researched how to install these and it seems pretty simple. Many people recommend putting a longer 3/8" bolt into the front of the block to hold the rod "up" so that you can slip the "arm" of the fuel pump under it. My question is this...do I need to put that longer bolt in BEFORE I remover the existing pump? Or, can I remove the existing pump, then left the rod up with my finger and at the same time, thread in the longer 3/8" bolt until I can feel/see that it is holding it up?

My concern about doing it with the existing pump still in place is that I don't want to thread that 3/8" bolt in too far and damage that internal rod. I would feel more comfortable doing it the second way.

Look forward to any suggestions/input.

 

Either way. Don't overtighten it. Use a little sealer or Teflon tape to prevent oil seepage.

 

Thanks Mike...if I do it the way I want to (hold it up with my finger while tightening the longer 3/8" bolt)...does it matter how high I hold that rod up? Can I just hold it up as high as I can to be safe?

Teflon tape/sealer...are you meaning on the two fuel pump mounting bolts, or the longer 3/8" bolt?

 

Some people just take the rod out and put some grease on it then shove it back in the hole. The grease will hold it in place until you get the pump on. Using the threaded hole works too.
I would use a thin smear of permatex ultra black on each sealing surface to insure a leak proof seal when you all done. That pump face area seems particularly likely to seep oil over time.

 

Put the engine on #1 TDC which positions the fuel pump lobe directly away from the fuel pump (something very few people know). Pull the old fuel pump off then lift the push rod up and screw a 1" long 3/8" bolt into the front/bottom '55 thru '57 motor mount hole until it contacts the push rod and your new pump will drop right in easily. That front/bottom hole will have a short 3/8" bolt with copper washer on it so when you're done be sure to remove the longer bolt and put the short one (with washer on it) back in snugly.

 

I just replaced my fuel pump last year after 40 years and 45,000 miles of use on my 75.

I used the grease trick to keep the rod up/in there, replaced the pump and hoses and re/installed the new pump.

1. It starts better/runs some what better

2. I have noticed that i don't have to pump the pedal so much to get it to run on a cold day-.

Just re/used the old bolts, i did mike out the rod and it was only 003. out.

 

What if I don't put the engine on #1 TDC? Can I still install it? I hate to ask the dumb question - but I don't know how to put the engine on #1 TDC???

 

The rod moves up and down. With the fuel pump removed push up on the rod while you turn the engine over (by hand or with the starter). It is easiest to install the pump with the rod fully up. Grease the rod and install the pump.
Check for leaks after start up.

 

It's very easy to find #1 TDC for this. Before removing the pump, just remove the distributor cap and turn engine over until the rotor is pointed to the tower that holds the wire to the #1 cylinder. This won't be "exactly" at TDC but close enough. Then remove the bolt on the front of the engine and replace with the longer bolt. Then remove the fuel pump and the rod will stay in place and it will be much easier to install the new pump. No need to really tighten the bolt too much- just until snug.
Jeff

 

Hi Guys,

I'm making progress - thanks for your help. I was able to get the old pump off...and did a "dry run" install on the new pump (did not put sealant on the gasket). I think I have it. Question...if I am able to get it bolted up tight, does that mean I have the rod in the proper location? I'm wondering how I will know if the rod accidentally slipped and got below the lever of the pump? If the rod did slip down and got in the wrong position, is it even possible to bolt up?

 

if the rod slips, you can't get the pump installed. only one way it fits. BTW, the quick and easy way is to just use an old hacksaw blade. Slip it in under the rod, hold the rod up, slip in the pump, pull out the hacksaw blade and tighten it up...the bolt and grease methods take too long and are too messy for me...surprised nobody mentioned this.

 

Thank you - yea, I was actually able to do it with a long/skinny screwdriver instead of the hacksaw blade...but the hacksaw blade would probably be easier. I got it in, but then it was a little difficult to "lift the pump" up to get the bolts in...I'm guessing I was fighting the spring load on the fuel pump? But again, I was able to get both bolts in and tighten them so that the pump was up flush with the block...so, based on your comment, that would mean I have it in the right position.

 

ordered a new one????? what no auto parts stores in Minneapolis?

 

The old grease trick works even better when you put the greased rod in the FREEZER for about 30 minutes or so. The frozen grease sticks so much better and doesn't get all over you.


Richard

 

I know...I'm still learning a lot (as you can tell by my dumb questions) so I like to compare different parts and make sure I'm getting the right part and a decent quality part. Plus, I don't have a lot of time to work on the car, so waiting a couple days for the part isn't a huge deal for me.

 

Listen, I just did this last week, took 25 minutes

Disconnect battery

Jack passenger side of car up and support with jack stands,

Disconnect fuel inlet line, fuel is going to rush out, pull hose up above tank level and put a 3/8 bolt in the hose and tighten the clamp, move the hose out of your way

Next disconnect fuel outlet line from pump, this may or not be a solid steel line, if you cannot undo it from underneath the car no biggie, you can still wiggle it out from the top, disconnect it from the carb, as well, use a flare wrench, 5/8" and a 1" to hold the nut on the body of the carb, if it a Q-jet. This is a great time to change fuel filters.

Undo two 9/16" bolts from pump, pull pump off, don't worry about the fuel pump shaft rod, it's not going anywhere

Compare old a new pumps for comparability

Take new pump and clean gasket surface, it will have manufacturing oil on it, use acetone, brake cleaner, etc. when dry, put a light coat of RTV gasket sealant and glue gasket to pump let this set up for a few minutes. Now is a good time to take those pump bolts to a wire wheel and clean up the old sealant on the threads.

Clean the pump mount area now of all the old gasket material and oil residue for new gasket to seal to a clean surface.

Now go find a old hack saw blade and bend it at a 45* angle 6 or so inches from one end. This will be a little leaver to slide that shaft up and hold it so you can get the pump lever in.

Start bolts through new pump and gasket and again put a light coat of RTV on gasket and some on bolts. Don't be cheap but do go crazy either

Before putting pump in place a liberal amount of grease on the pump lever

Now take hacksaw blade slide pump shaft up towards cam as far as it can go, don't worry about TDC it does not matter it's a pain in the behind for only a few minutes, slide the pump lever in, while still hold hack saw blade between block and pump, start both bolts. Take a bright light and shine it down make sure it all looks good with seating, slide hacksaw blade out, now tighten bolts all the way and torque to spec

Reconnect fuel lines, if you have the steel pump discharge line, I like to put pipe dope on them before I tighten, just a little, again it's a flare so you don't have to go nuts, make sure flare is fully seated as you tighten and watch that you do not cross thread.

Lower car, clear everything out of your way, tools etc

Pull coil wire off distributer, reconnect battery and turn the engine over for 20 or so seconds to get fuel up to carb. Check for leaks at pump and carb. Put coil wire back on.

VAROOM! Rumble Rumble Rumble, while warming up

Clean up, you will smell like horsepower, go drive it with a smile

Have a celebratory beer and then clean up your tools


And yes I had to order my pump too, nobody has a stock SBC pump, I ordered from Summit

 

Thanks for your post - do I need to grease that rod? My perception was that some people apply grease as a way to help hold the rod up in place...if I'm able to do that without the grease (using the hacksaw blade for example), then do I need to grease it? I presume that rod is lubricated by engine oil while in service?

This job isn't overly complicated, but access is a bit tough due to the exhaust headers I have on it, as well as the lower radiator hose...if that wasn't there, it would be a lot easier. Since nobody has mentioned this hose, I almost wonder if I have an incorrect hose...but that's for another day!

 

there is no reason whatsoever to remove the pump rod. it is lubricated via the engine oil. if you want to do extra work, and get dirtier, you can follow that method. I leave the plate on and do it the way I explained. it is a 15 minute job.

 

ok - last question. How does that rod connect to the engine? Not that I want to remove it, but my concern is that in my attempts to lift the rod a few times, I could feel it turn/spin between my fingers. Is it just simply threaded on to something that is up in the engine? If so, is it a standard thread (righty tighty)? I'm wondering if before I put the pump back on if I should grab it and make sure I turn it (tighten it) with my fingers so that I haven't inadvertently loosened it and caused a potential problem down the road.

 

The rod does not connect to the engine, it just slides up and down.
The top end of the rod rides on the cam shaft.
The cam pushes the rod down and the spring in the pump pushes it up.