Help with engine running hot
#21
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: South Western Ontario
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The measurement difference makes no sense and by all appearances it's due to bad measurements. Your rad measurements do appear to be on the low side all around. If you want to know for sure then get a contact probe to measure temperature.
#22
Drifting
10* initial sounds way to low. Advance your timing to at least 15 or 16 * initial and 36 total. You may have to rework your advance/springs/weights pending what type of Dizzy you have. Use manifold vac advance.
#23
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2006
Location: Boca Raton Florida
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I had forgotten about this thread. Take the radiator cap off and let it warm up or remove the t-stat and look inside the radiator and see which the coolant is going. As you know it should be coming from the drivers side and you should be able to see it coming out of the coolant tubes. The lower hose being hotter than the top hose is pretty weird
#24
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Great Plains Iowa
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I suggest trashing those worthless 11" SPAL fans and put the OEM shroud and 7-blade clutch fan back on. I'm running a 425 hp 454" with A/C and the hottest it ever gets is 210 degrees in stop-and-go city traffic on a 105 degree day.
#25
Pro
Thread Starter
This exact SPAL fan setup on a DeWitts radiator cools a 500+hp/500+ft/lbs 455 in my Buick without any problems.
Last edited by dmruschell; 10-05-2015 at 08:20 AM.
#26
Pro
Thread Starter
I was just going to let this thread die out, as the engine is getting a warrantied re-ringing soon. I had always complained about oil consumption to the guy who built it, and nothing we did fixed it. He diagnosed a bad PCV valve (that was never replaced, even when the engine was built 3.5 years ago). The new valve is being blown out of the valve cover, which means the rings never seated properly.
#27
Instructor
Like I mentioned before, the car was getting hot at idle with the stock clutch fan. Now with the electric fans, it never gets hot at idle. The problem I'm having is at speed, which relies more in ran air flow rather than what fan is in the car. If your only solution is to insult my current setup and tell me to put on something that I've already said I had in my car and didn't work properly, then please refrain from posting. There are many people running big blocks with the setup I have that don't overheat.
This exact SPAL fan setup on a DeWitts radiator cools a 500+hp/500+ft/lbs 455 in my Buick without any problems.
This exact SPAL fan setup on a DeWitts radiator cools a 500+hp/500+ft/lbs 455 in my Buick without any problems.
#28
Le Mans Master
Toobroke does have experience, he just needs to keep an open mind and realize that some solutions and technology may have changed since 1970, thereby changing the options that are available to today's hotrodder.
#29
Pro
Thread Starter