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Main bearing cap bolts

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Old 04-29-2016, 04:29 PM
  #21  
irelandr
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Originally Posted by jim-81
I'm still wondering how you were able to drill out and extract a broken cap bolt... From under the car!
Yes laying on the floor with the car on race ramps. It was in the bolt hole about 1/4 inch, used a small center punch to put a good starting point to drill since it was anything but flat then started real slow to get the hole started and drilled in a little over 1/4 inch and then used a easy out , tapped in in good with a hammer then backed it out with a wrench. Don't want to break the easy out, did that years ago and not many drills can drill through them.
Old 04-29-2016, 05:15 PM
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jim2527
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
Yep.....large journal.

But how in the heck did a main bolt break??

JIM
Good question. When I was replacing my rear main seal there was a broken bolt laying the oil pan. Fortunately I was able to catch and edge and get it out. Bought a set of bolts and replaced them all one at a time.
Old 04-29-2016, 06:15 PM
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bashcraft
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
You want to use a stock bolt, if you use ARP you will need to have it line honed. The ARP is a stronger bolt and the clamp characteristics/cap distortion will be different.
I don't think this is true.
Old 04-29-2016, 06:24 PM
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leadfoot4
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
I don't think this is true.
Neither do I. Connecting rod bolts, however, are a different story.
Old 04-29-2016, 07:06 PM
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irelandr
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
I don't think this is true.
Saw the same comment several places but went with what I can get fast so will do them tomorrow. Every place they talk about it the majority seemed to think if it is just street and you do not replace the cap you are ok, the rest said do it but my engine is still in so thats a lot to get it done. That and I just need a good excuse to put a new engine in anyway
Old 04-29-2016, 07:08 PM
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BOOT77
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Ask a machine shop
Old 04-30-2016, 01:40 AM
  #27  
gkull
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I don't build with bolts. Use high psi studs from ARP. Just a few more bucks.

All my stock 4 bolt block builds in the past also have billet main caps. All the aftermarket blocks like SHP have nice main caps compared to stock
Old 04-30-2016, 10:25 AM
  #28  
bashcraft
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
Ask a machine shop
I just did. They said if you're not replacing the caps it's not necessary.
Old 04-30-2016, 07:37 PM
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irelandr
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
I just did. They said if you're not replacing the caps it's not necessary.
Will let you know soon, got the same answer, but said with studs line hone it, I was doing bolts anyway so that did not matter. Put the ARP bolts and oil pan on today, replaced the timing chain and gear because it was the original plastic coated one and one tooth was bare and replace the harmonic damper because the seal had wore a grove in it and no one local had a sleeve. Still have to drop the distributor back in and .finish the front belts and pullys and then will see what happens.
Old 05-01-2016, 07:19 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by irelandr
Will let you know soon, got the same answer, but said with studs line hone it, I was doing bolts anyway so that did not matter. Put the ARP bolts and oil pan on today, replaced the timing chain and gear because it was the original plastic coated one and one tooth was bare and replace the harmonic damper because the seal had wore a grove in it and no one local had a sleeve. Still have to drop the distributor back in and .finish the front belts and pullys and then will see what happens.
Good luck!!!


Old 05-02-2016, 08:31 AM
  #31  
7T1vette
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Torque on a bolt translates to 'clamping load' thru the joint. And, if you go to ARP bolts which require a much higher torque load [to get them to stretch properly], that added clamping load causes more plastic deformation of the bearing cap. Would that be enough to distort it and place risk into the bearing? Some think that it would if re-using the stock caps.

The choice is yours. If you are really building up the engine for much more power, you would go to stronger caps AND ARP bolts, then have the set line-honed. But, if you are just rebuilding your stock engine, installing new stock bolts on the stock caps allows you to have the same build integrity as the original factory work, while re-using the stock bearing caps.

Uhh...this assumes that you marked the caps so that they are put on exactly as they came off. Right?

Last edited by 7T1vette; 05-02-2016 at 08:33 AM.
Old 05-02-2016, 04:58 PM
  #32  
irelandr
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Torque on a bolt translates to 'clamping load' thru the joint. And, if you go to ARP bolts which require a much higher torque load [to get them to stretch properly], that added clamping load causes more plastic deformation of the bearing cap. Would that be enough to distort it and place risk into the bearing? Some think that it would if re-using the stock caps.

The choice is yours. If you are really building up the engine for much more power, you would go to stronger caps AND ARP bolts, then have the set line-honed. But, if you are just rebuilding your stock engine, installing new stock bolts on the stock caps allows you to have the same build integrity as the original factory work, while re-using the stock bearing caps.

Uhh...this assumes that you marked the caps so that they are put on exactly as they came off. Right?

If the torque was much higher I would agree 100% but in this case it is the same as factory 70ft lb so no increase at all.

This engine is the original and have over 80K miles and not rebuilding it just has a front and rear main seal leak and stripped drain plug so was just patching leaks until I figure out what I want in it and save a little more. Just a base 350 for street cruising right now. Did the rear main cap then starting in the center to follow the torque pattern lossened bot slightly then took one out and put a new one in then took the other out and put a new one in and then torqued it to 25, then 45, then 70, loosened then again and repeated then did the one in front to that next, then the one behind and then the front one.

It it works great, if it has issues I was going to change it eventually but did not want to pull it and get it honed when I was not rebuilding it.
Old 05-02-2016, 05:00 PM
  #33  
irelandr
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My evenutal goal.. the car has a 700R4 transmission, new and build up and aluminum radiator and spal fans, engine has HEI already so something to just drop in with about 35o HP or a little higher but not racing, just don't want to be last.
Old 05-02-2016, 09:11 PM
  #34  
Jebbysan
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Main caps can move if installing ARP....but it really comes down to haw tight the cap fits in the register......if it is not tight...it is going to move.
I alway have to crack up when people speculate whether this will or will not happen.....measure it...and you will know.

Jebby
Old 05-02-2016, 09:23 PM
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irelandr
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Originally Posted by Jebbysan
Main caps can move if installing ARP....but it really comes down to haw tight the cap fits in the register......if it is not tight...it is going to move.
I alway have to crack up when people speculate whether this will or will not happen.....measure it...and you will know.

Jebby
I can partially understand that but if I changed nothing but the bolt and it is the same diameter as what I took out and I changed no other part (bearings, etc) how would the movement be different?
Old 05-02-2016, 09:48 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by irelandr
I can partially understand that but if I changed nothing but the bolt and it is the same diameter as what I took out and I changed no other part (bearings, etc) how would the movement be different?
ARP uses washer on flange bolts with moly to torque.
GM used flange bolts with no washer and torque with oil.

Jebby
Old 05-03-2016, 12:27 AM
  #37  
7T1vette
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If you put 'factory' torque on an ARP bolt, then it didn't get stretched into elastic zone as it is designed to do. The advantage of using "better" bolts is that you can put higher clamping loads on them (and the retained parts) making for a firmer joint. However, increasing load on the stock cap will distort it.

You really can't have it both ways. But, go for it, if you think that's the right way to go.

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Old 05-03-2016, 10:58 PM
  #38  
irelandr
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If you put 'factory' torque on an ARP bolt, then it didn't get stretched into elastic zone as it is designed to do. The advantage of using "better" bolts is that you can put higher clamping loads on them (and the retained parts) making for a firmer joint. However, increasing load on the stock cap will distort it.

You really can't have it both ways. But, go for it, if you think that's the right way to go.
It was not what I chose to put on, ARP said 70ft lb which is the same as stock so thats whats on it. So not really an increased load on the stock mains, the same pressure. Follwed ARPS instructions tot eh T including doing it multiople times and stopping at 70ft lbs.
Old 05-04-2016, 12:47 PM
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7T1vette
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Shame on ARP. They sold you expensive bolts to make a profit; but you will end up with bolts on the main caps that "could" come loose because they aren't in the 'elastic' state after torquing. I said "could" because I am unsure of the risk...they probably will stay in place. But, ARP bolts torqued to stock torque value will hold no better than stock bolts...they have approximately the same loading on them.

Your net loss is some wasted money on the overcost of the bolts. But I am sadly disappointed in a good brand like ARP telling you to use their product in that manner, just so they can make a few buck$ more.
Old 05-04-2016, 01:15 PM
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bashcraft
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
Shame on ARP. They sold you expensive bolts to make a profit; but you will end up with bolts on the main caps that "could" come loose because they aren't in the 'elastic' state after torquing. I said "could" because I am unsure of the risk...they probably will stay in place. But, ARP bolts torqued to stock torque value will hold no better than stock bolts...they have approximately the same loading on them.

Your net loss is some wasted money on the overcost of the bolts. But I am sadly disappointed in a good brand like ARP telling you to use their product in that manner, just so they can make a few buck$ more.
Are you serious? The instructions for the bolts say to torque them to 70 lb/ft. Are you saying that ARP is setting him up to fail?


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