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71 runs super cold after Big Block radiator and Standard chevy water pump/accessories

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Old 03-29-2017, 10:26 AM
  #21  
Big2Bird
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Originally Posted by jb78L-82
I have exactly the same issue with my rebuilt/modified L-82 355 that was done in 2014 (.030 bored, roller cam 219/225, lift .525/.525, duration 110, 10.2:1 compression, AFR 180 heads). The OEM motor had an aluminum Dewitt's radiator, Stewart aluminum Stage 2 water pump, and a Stewart specified specially modified 180 degree thermostat with 3 holes drilled in the thermostat base. In my case, I think that the thermostat always allows a certain amount of coolant to pass around the thermostat even when closed which results on cold days for the engine to never reach full operating temp....just like ajorthm states, the temp gauge will barely come off of 100 on the gauge. On the highway, the engine will eventually reach the first hash mark on the gauge....half way between 100 and the 12 OClock position of 200. During the summer, the engine will eventually get to half way between the first hash mark and 200 which is 180 degrees. I think that the guage like you say is not linear and is running more than the gauge indicates when the temp outside is cold. In my case, I am thinking of replacing the gauge with a standard Robertshaw thermostat WITHOUT the 3 holes drilled in the base but I will drill 1 or 2 holes in the base rather than than the 3 holes...may try 1 bigger hole in the base rather than the 3 smaller holes to see what happens.....Thoughts?
Some old cars used cotter pins in the holes as restrictors. Cheap enough to try.
Old 03-29-2017, 02:52 PM
  #22  
jb78L-82
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Some old cars used cotter pins in the holes as restrictors. Cheap enough to try.
Interesting idea that I may try OR...I am going to buy a regular Robertshaw 180 thermostat and I will drill 1 small size hole instead of 3 larger holes like the Stewart Robertshaw thermostats have...
Old 03-29-2017, 03:09 PM
  #23  
Jebbysan
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What is the temp you are seeing?
What temp thermostat are you running?

Jebby
Old 03-29-2017, 05:19 PM
  #24  
7T1vette
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A larger radiator DOES increase the capacity of a vehicle's cooling system. The T-stat setting the lowest possible stabilizing temperature has nothing to do with cooling capacity.
Old 03-29-2017, 07:02 PM
  #25  
Rescue Rogers
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i had to edit this down so i dont hurt the chikdrens feelings

For the OP Original Poster. If the motor is running too cold you have too much cold air flow, too much cooling, or t stat with issues which can fall under the too much cooling heading.Its any eaasy fix, no need to argue.

Too much cold air flow. Yes Dorothy, there is such a place and its taking away too much heat.
Too much cooling. EITHER the radiator is too big, too many vanes or the t stat is stuck or its a combo platter because its also winter outside, duh you guys, Ignore that OP
1, To solve with money, buy a 185* t stat and see if it fixes it. if it doesnt include
option 2
2, To solve with out removing the t stat or changing the radiator unless you already tried option 1. Cut the cooling air flow by half to see if the motor heats up. If the guage stablizes then the t stat opened and you can cut back on the blocked air flow to get a balance. When the outside air gets hot pull the cardboard. If it didnt stabilize see option 1 if you havent yet. if you have a new working thermostat, its warm out and your motor still running cold to the touch you need to put in the proper radiator option 4
3, most expensive solution. Move to Arizona where youll be the corvette god with the super cold corvette.
4, replace the radiator with a smaller and lighter one ( for you JK) after replacing the t stat and blocking air flow. Come on, I'm running out of numbers here.


Please solve this soon as the children need to go to bed soon

Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 03-29-2017 at 07:38 PM.



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