Body lifting
11-11-2003, 10:27 PM
#1
Heel & Toe
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Body lifting
O.K. I just ordered a body lift kit. I am getting ready to remove the body of my C3 for the first time. I am going to use a 4x4 above the rafters in my garage and drop an eye bolt down through the sheet rock. I have a few questions:
1.) How much does the body of a C3 weigh? I ask because I am wondering how many rafters to span with the 4x4, or should I use a 6x6.
2.) What should I use to connect the lift kit to the eye bolt, a *** along or a simple block and tackle with a rope?
3.) Do I leave the doors and T-tops on or remove them prior to the lift?
4.) Is it a good idea to put tape on the floor around the tires so when it comes time to reinstall the body I know where to position the frame?
I am a body removal virgin so any advise that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. :)
1.) How much does the body of a C3 weigh? I ask because I am wondering how many rafters to span with the 4x4, or should I use a 6x6.
2.) What should I use to connect the lift kit to the eye bolt, a *** along or a simple block and tackle with a rope?
3.) Do I leave the doors and T-tops on or remove them prior to the lift?
4.) Is it a good idea to put tape on the floor around the tires so when it comes time to reinstall the body I know where to position the frame?
I am a body removal virgin so any advise that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. :)
11-11-2003, 11:50 PM
#2
Safety Car
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Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
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Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
Make sure your garage is plenty sturdy. My guess is a vette body with interior weighs over 1,000 pounds. You could probably get 300+ pounds off if you remove the interior, and still more if you remove the doors. I am a little skeptical of those body lift straps, they grab the body by the rocker channels. That is okay as long as the rocker channels are not rusted out, if they are (rusted) you can cause some very severe damage. I slung mine by using straps completely under the body.
11-11-2003, 11:59 PM
#3
Race Director
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Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
Can't help you with the rafter Q's.....I took the easy way out when I lifted the body...got 6 of my buds, a keg, the wife made some brats and kraut, and when we lifted the body off...took all of a minute to do that...no rafters to worry about...once the body was off...we downed suds and filled up on kraut and brats... :cheers: :D
11-12-2003, 12:21 AM
#4
Heel & Toe
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Re: Body lifting (GDaina)
I'm all for krauts and beer. :cheers: :thumbs:
The rust seems to be at a minimum so I'm not too worried about that. The interior has already been removed. The apealing thing about the hoist is that I can lift it a little bit at a time and make sure that I haven't missed anything. :bb
The rust seems to be at a minimum so I'm not too worried about that. The interior has already been removed. The apealing thing about the hoist is that I can lift it a little bit at a time and make sure that I haven't missed anything. :bb
11-12-2003, 12:38 AM
#5
Race Director
Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
You probably want to remove all of the headlight assemblies and plumbing from the body prior to lift That stuff is quite heavy and will put extra stress on the body during lifting.
11-12-2003, 12:54 AM
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Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
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Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
I just happened to think of one more thing: Leave the radiator support intact with the front end. It provides a great deal of strength up there and be sure to adequately support the front end once the body is off. :cheers:
11-12-2003, 01:25 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
The Nolan Adams body lift video and book are useful as you get a checklist of parts to disconnect, etc. The book also has instructions on building a body dolly. I had not pulled a body before and the video and book were very helpful.
Good luck. :)
[Modified by mapman, 12:28 AM 11/12/2003]
O.K. I just ordered a body lift kit. I am getting ready to remove the body of my C3 for the first time. I am going to use a 4x4 above the rafters in my garage and drop an eye bolt down through the sheet rock. I have a few questions:
>>>>Check to see if you will have enough height in the garage to do the lift using the harness. I built a frame outside for the lift on my 1980. <<<
1.) How much does the body of a C3 weigh? I ask because I am wondering how many rafters to span with the 4x4, or should I use a 6x6.
>>> I used two(2) 2"x 8" x 8 foot boards as the cross piece for my frame. I also attached 3 foot sections of angle iron to the top of the beam to distribute the load. This was overkill as the body doesn't weigh that much. The NA video shows 8 guys (four to a side) lifting the body up and holding it while the chassis was rolled away and the body dolly was rolled under the body. <<<
2.) What should I use to connect the lift kit to the eye bolt, a *** along or a simple block and tackle with a rope?
>>> I used a small (1 ton) chain hoist to lift the body ($39 new in the box). The problem with a *** along is that you can lift the body but lowering it is a PITA. The chain hoist made it easy to lift and it was easy to set back down on the body dolly. I attached the hoist to a chain wrapped around the beam so as not to weaken the beam. <<<
3.) Do I leave the doors and T-tops on or remove them prior to the lift?
>>> I left the door on and had the T-Tops off. If you can roll the windows down that would be good. <<<
4.) Is it a good idea to put tape on the floor around the tires so when it comes time to reinstall the body I know where to position the frame?
>>> If you remove the door sill plates you will see a two holes in the birdcage on both the driver's and passenger's side. The holes may be filled with plastic plugs. If you look down the holes you will see the top of the frame through one hole and the ground through the other hole. The forward hole on the driver's side, and the rearward hole on the passenger's side line up with holes in the frame. These holes were used to align the body with the frame when the body drop was originally done. When you drop the body back on the frame you can also use these alignment holes. <<<
I am a body removal virgin so any advise that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. :)
>>>>Check to see if you will have enough height in the garage to do the lift using the harness. I built a frame outside for the lift on my 1980. <<<
1.) How much does the body of a C3 weigh? I ask because I am wondering how many rafters to span with the 4x4, or should I use a 6x6.
>>> I used two(2) 2"x 8" x 8 foot boards as the cross piece for my frame. I also attached 3 foot sections of angle iron to the top of the beam to distribute the load. This was overkill as the body doesn't weigh that much. The NA video shows 8 guys (four to a side) lifting the body up and holding it while the chassis was rolled away and the body dolly was rolled under the body. <<<
2.) What should I use to connect the lift kit to the eye bolt, a *** along or a simple block and tackle with a rope?
>>> I used a small (1 ton) chain hoist to lift the body ($39 new in the box). The problem with a *** along is that you can lift the body but lowering it is a PITA. The chain hoist made it easy to lift and it was easy to set back down on the body dolly. I attached the hoist to a chain wrapped around the beam so as not to weaken the beam. <<<
3.) Do I leave the doors and T-tops on or remove them prior to the lift?
>>> I left the door on and had the T-Tops off. If you can roll the windows down that would be good. <<<
4.) Is it a good idea to put tape on the floor around the tires so when it comes time to reinstall the body I know where to position the frame?
>>> If you remove the door sill plates you will see a two holes in the birdcage on both the driver's and passenger's side. The holes may be filled with plastic plugs. If you look down the holes you will see the top of the frame through one hole and the ground through the other hole. The forward hole on the driver's side, and the rearward hole on the passenger's side line up with holes in the frame. These holes were used to align the body with the frame when the body drop was originally done. When you drop the body back on the frame you can also use these alignment holes. <<<
I am a body removal virgin so any advise that you can give me would be greatly appreciated. :)
[Modified by mapman, 12:28 AM 11/12/2003]
11-12-2003, 12:48 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
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Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
I looked all over and asked a lot of people and could never get a confident, exact answer on the C3 body weight. Since I figured my guess was as good as anybody's I swagged a figure at 1000 lbs. That is including doors but nothing else. I used an engine hoist with a telescoping boom to remove and install the body. It gave me plenty of lift; more than enough to clear everything on the chassis. It also gave me the flexibility that I could move the hoist around slightly with the body if I had to (and I did).
If you have a convertible leave the doors on or use a bar that spans the distance between the door's top hinge and the striker plate. This is important to keep the body from wanting to fold in the middle. The coupe would be OK to take the doors off because the roof structure will carry the load. I'd take the t-tops off because the body will flex and they really won't carry much of the load anyway.
Something you might consider is to get wheel dollies for your chassis so that you can move it around side to side as well as front and back when you go to reinstall the body on the chassis. That way, if you are using a hoist in your garage you can fine tune the position of the chassis without a lot of hassle as you lower the body. Harbor freight and other places carry these dollies pretty cheap (less than $100 for a set of 4). I picked up a set of 4 at a swap meet for $70.
If you decide to put a beam in your ceiling go with a 4X6. The height of a beam has the greatest effect on its stiffness. The width adds only to a much smaller degree. Also consider propping the beam up on the outer ends so that the center of the beam where you anchor your hoist clears the rafters by about a 1/2 to 1 inch. That way as load is applied to the beam, the force will be tranferred to the outermost rafters first. As the beam flexes under load the load will get distributed to the inner rafters. This way, the rafter load will be more uniform with the full weight of the body hanging from it.
Don't use a block and tackle unless you can lock it in position. Use a chain fall so you don't have to worry about dropping the body if you have to let go. Again, Harbor freight carries a 1 ton chain fall (more than enough load capacity) for under $50--even less if you catch a sale.
Good luck. :thumbs:
If you have a convertible leave the doors on or use a bar that spans the distance between the door's top hinge and the striker plate. This is important to keep the body from wanting to fold in the middle. The coupe would be OK to take the doors off because the roof structure will carry the load. I'd take the t-tops off because the body will flex and they really won't carry much of the load anyway.
Something you might consider is to get wheel dollies for your chassis so that you can move it around side to side as well as front and back when you go to reinstall the body on the chassis. That way, if you are using a hoist in your garage you can fine tune the position of the chassis without a lot of hassle as you lower the body. Harbor freight and other places carry these dollies pretty cheap (less than $100 for a set of 4). I picked up a set of 4 at a swap meet for $70.
If you decide to put a beam in your ceiling go with a 4X6. The height of a beam has the greatest effect on its stiffness. The width adds only to a much smaller degree. Also consider propping the beam up on the outer ends so that the center of the beam where you anchor your hoist clears the rafters by about a 1/2 to 1 inch. That way as load is applied to the beam, the force will be tranferred to the outermost rafters first. As the beam flexes under load the load will get distributed to the inner rafters. This way, the rafter load will be more uniform with the full weight of the body hanging from it.
Don't use a block and tackle unless you can lock it in position. Use a chain fall so you don't have to worry about dropping the body if you have to let go. Again, Harbor freight carries a 1 ton chain fall (more than enough load capacity) for under $50--even less if you catch a sale.
Good luck. :thumbs:
11-12-2003, 01:21 PM
#9
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Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
My 73 body including all the interior , doors, glass except hood, bumpers, t-tops weighed 780 lbs. I measured it by placing a steel beam and fulcrum under one side, stood on a beam until it just balanced, then measured the beam distances and multiplied by 2 and subtracted the dolly weight which I weighed prior.
I've been trying to find the body weight from this forum and others and found answers ranging from 800 to 1300 lbs but NO one actually even attempted to weigh it. It would be an enormous hassle to take a body only to a weigh scale. I'll stick to the 780 lbs unless someone has ACTUALLY weighed it properly.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
I've been trying to find the body weight from this forum and others and found answers ranging from 800 to 1300 lbs but NO one actually even attempted to weigh it. It would be an enormous hassle to take a body only to a weigh scale. I'll stick to the 780 lbs unless someone has ACTUALLY weighed it properly.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
11-12-2003, 10:19 PM
#11
Safety Car
Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
I nailed 2-2x6'sx 10feet together and placed them across the rafters. One end was on the wall and the other end I used a 4x4 as a post. Then I used 2 come-a-longs, one to lift the body straps and the other to lift the nose. Take the seats out and remove the t-tops. I also set a 2x4 across the top of the doors inbetween the straps so they would not put to much pressure on the door skins. Check my web page.
11-13-2003, 07:26 PM
#12
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Re: Body lifting (Big Fish)
Big Fish you mention rafters do you know the diff. between rafters and trusses
if there trusses no problem 4 trusses will carry 1000 without a problem
if they are rafters (home made ) I wouldn't take the chance unless you are well insured
if there trusses no problem 4 trusses will carry 1000 without a problem
if they are rafters (home made ) I wouldn't take the chance unless you are well insured
11-13-2003, 08:04 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Re: Body lifting
Let me just chime in that the weights of a C3 body will vary. I would hope & presume that 1968 to roughly 1973 would weigh the same. Starting in 1974 they lost the chrome bumpers all together. In 1978 (heaviest curb weight according to the Black Book) they started to use the bubble glass. The glass from 1978-1982 should make those cars weigh more than the cars with the smaller vertical rear windows; 1968-1977.
11-13-2003, 09:54 PM
#14
Re: Body lifting (gb9743)
I also used the video mentioned earlier. It was verry helpfull, especially the plans for the body dolly that came with it. One thing I did was supported the nose by running a come along to the rad support from the eye hook in the strap kit. I used an engine hoist we had and it was nice to be able to lift it slowly seeing as how there were a few last things to disconnect when we were lifting it. A local corvette shop advised me to support the nose when lifting because its only some glue that holds them on. Its hard to tell if its still nice and strong or not so i just went the safe way.
11-14-2003, 12:46 AM
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Cruise-In 5-6-7-8-9-11-12 Veteran
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Re: Body lifting (1975Corvette89Z71)
Big Fish you mention rafters do you know the diff. between rafters and trusses
if there trusses no problem 4 trusses will carry 1000 without a problem
if they are rafters (home made ) I wouldn't take the chance unless you are well insured
I didn't mention rafters or trusses in my post :confused:
I did manage to get my body off and back on with no problem, but my rafters are 2 x 12's on 12" centers with cross bridging. Using a 4 x 6 across about 8 of them it didn't even creak. :cheers:
[Modified by Big Fish, 11:52 PM 11/13/2003]
if there trusses no problem 4 trusses will carry 1000 without a problem
if they are rafters (home made ) I wouldn't take the chance unless you are well insured
I didn't mention rafters or trusses in my post :confused:
I did manage to get my body off and back on with no problem, but my rafters are 2 x 12's on 12" centers with cross bridging. Using a 4 x 6 across about 8 of them it didn't even creak. :cheers:
[Modified by Big Fish, 11:52 PM 11/13/2003]
