Scooter70

Who has run new fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay? I need to plumb in my external fuel pump and regulator for the LS1 and was thinking of doing everything in 3/8 braided and AN -6. Another option is to use Russell's aluminum line to go along the frame from the regulator to the engine bay and then go back to braided for a short length and then into the fuel rail.
I'm wondering how easy it is to keep the braided in place on the frame or how easy the aluminum is to bend and form (Can it be bent by hand without kinking? How tough is it to route the hose and bend it so it looks good and works well?). I have done braided lines with AN fittings so I know what I'm getting into there. I'm afraid that the minimum bend radius is too large and I won't be able to get it to be hidden along the frame.
Any opinions and/or pics of your setup would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Fevre

Matt

Have been thinking about this for when I am ready to to the EFI thang and was thinking of running braided line zip tied to the existing fuel line, using the hard line for return and braided line for feed, seems the braided line might keep it just a touch cooler but not sure of that. Am not sure what the size of the fitting for the return line is on the tank so that might have to changed to at least 5/16th, seems that is the min size for returns.

BSeery

Here is what I did for my fuel injection install.

I put a sump in the tank and have a fuel injection pressure rated hose (Russell) from the sump to the filter-pump-filter and then that couples to an aluminum line. The aluminum line starts near the right rear wheel, and follows the frame rail all the way to the firewall. At the fire wall it bends and goes half way up the firewall and then I convert back to hose to go into the fuel injection. For the return fuel I run from the fuel injection with hose down the firewall to the frame rail. from there I cut into the stock fuel pump's feed line (3/8") and use that as my return line. It's the same routing all the way back to the tank, and just returns fuel to the sending unit instead of drawing fuel. I took the "sock" off the sending unit so that would not restrict the return fuel any.
I secured my aluminum line to the stock lines with hose clamps.

zwede

I did mine the opposite way. I go from the sump into a pre-filter, then pump and then to the stock 3/8" steel line. In the eng comp I go from the hardline to a short aluminum line to the filter and then the fuel rail. The return goes on the drivers side and is 3/8" aluminum. It goes along the frame rail to the tank on the drivers side and returns into the top of the tank. All transitions are done with fuel injection rated rubber hose. I've run this for about 3 years now with no problems.

70 LS1

Matt,

My fuel system consists of the following: The stock 70 tank. A high pressure rubber line runs from the stock outlet on the bottom to a Walbro 255Lph inline pump. From there a high pressure rubber line runs to the 99 corvette regulator/ filter. From the filter back the the tank is again rubber line and taps back in at the top where the stock return was.

From the regulator comes a steel 3/8" line about 18" long that parallels the frame. I then used the Aeroquip socketless rubber hose to run between the frame and the body paralleling the stock lines. The hose ends with a 90 degree fitting just in front of the frame kickup where the trailing arms mount.

From the 90 fitting it was pretty much a straight shot to the front of the car with 3/8" aluminum line. There is another section of the socketless hose about 6" long, then another aluminum line wraps around the back of the block, through the coil cover and into the fuel rail. I had the quick disconnect fitting on the ruel rail cut off and a male AN -6 fitting brazed on.

Sounds confusing even when I read it. I can get you some pictures if you want.

On a side note, I pulled the alternator bracket and traced it out with dimensions. I am currently making an autocad drawing of it. Should have it to you in the next day or two.

Scooter70

Thanks to everybody. The LS1's fuel line goes in the drivers side of the car, so I was thinking about running a new line in the same manner that the stock lines do but on the drivers side. I really haven't looked at it very hard but I know that there's a brake line in there to fight with.

For those who ran new lines: How tough was it to get the line in there and bend it into place? The aluminum line comes in 25' lengths, so if I go that route, I'll have plenty to mess up and start again. Russell has some hard tube adaptors that don't even require a flare, so I'm going to see if I can pick some of those up this weekend.

On a side note, I drove a friend's '99 SS Camaro with a GM Hot cam, LS6 clutch, and Pro 5.0 shifter today. My cam is slightly bigger and I have 3.70s compared to his 3.42s, but I have the same clutch and shifter. Now I really want to get my car running soon!!! :eek: :steering: :auto:

Scooter70

ttt

Any tips on running new aluminum fuel lines?

BSeery

I basically free hand formed my line. I started out by pushing it down between the body and the frame rails, where the stock lines are, starting at the right rear wheel well. I pushed it forward and it bent it's self to follow the gap between the two. At the point where the rear "clip" of the frame meets the side frame rails, I hand formed a gradual bend, minding not to kink it. I just kept pulling it through and forming by hand till I got it all in place. Once in place, I formed some of the tighter bends (at the firewall and at the rear towards the tank) by using a tubing bender. The line is pretty easy to work with, just don't kink it. Once it's kinked, it's done.

Scooter70

Thanks Byran. My package from Summit arrived today but I ordered the wrong hard tube adaptors. :banghead: I got the female and should have got the male so that they would screw right into the hose adaptors. So then I had to re-order the right ones and send the wrong ones back. Guess it's not getting done this weekend.... :rolleyes:

BigBadRed

I first used the aluminum, but it seemed really prone to nicks so It concerned me that it would be to soft. So I replaced it with the braided.

The Dude

I'm going to use short braided lines as flex couplings to attach to 1/2" aluminum lines for the long runs. I plan on putting the hard lines along the inside of the frame and running them through a 1" x 24" piece of stee pipe welded to the frame adjacent to the flywheel, etc., to protect the fuel lines in case of a catastrophic failure there. NHRA allows only 12" of rubber line on the whole car.


[Modified by The Dude, 12:27 PM 4/10/2004]

Scooter70

Here's how it's coming so far. Everything is connected wtih Russell hard tube adaptors (no flaring needed) and Russell -6AN hose ends. (Double click for big pics.)

-6 AN fitting on stock LS1 fuel rail


Here's how the fittings commect to the stock '70 tank sending unit.


Fuel pump and filter



[Modified by Scooter70, 9:52 AM 4/15/2004]