qwiketz

The vortech crank pulley is 6 rib. I looked at it the other day and it didn't look like it had any guides on it. I didn't look at it up close because I still had the head unit on but I do have a question. My question is, can I run an 8 rib belt and have the other 2 ribs hang off the edge of the crank pulley(1 on each side). Or does ATI make a 8 rib setup. I didn't look up close at the crank pulley, so I could be totally off here guys.

Assuming that I would be able to do this with the crank pulley, I could easily get an 8 rib pulley off my mustang setup since they share offsets(the corvette 6 rib pulley is a vortech a trim 6 rib pulley for the mustang setup and visa versa).

I think Mo uses a 7 rib setup on his. Anyone have any input? Heck, even the 7 rib setup would be an improvement.

Mo_Bandy

Quiketz,

Hey there... I have no clue who made mine but to the best of my knowledge Vortech only make a 6 rib. They do have the 7 rib S/C pulley. But not the crank. It's not mpossible but you would probably have to go with a machine shop one off costs...

I'm sure others may chime in...

Mo

tjwong

I am in the process of having my own design machined at this moment. I have two versions. The first is that I remove the outer ring of the stock balancer, then make a new one out of steel with both the six and the rear 8 rib sections machined into the new outer ring. Then I use stock Vortec 8 rib blower pulleys that are machined to fit the new drive. Basically it means that I shorten the overall length of the Vortec pulley so that it seats on the blower closer to the blower housing in order to match the 8 rib drive belt for correct alignment. I use Vortecs 8 rib blower pulleys because I can buy them, and modify them cheaper than I can make my own and have them hard anodized.

The second version is that I build a complete new two peice balancer, made of steel. I just disassemble the GM unit and measure and copy its demensions to build from. I then take the two peices and have them vulcanized back together with a super strong silastic elastomer bonding agent that is about 20x stronger than the rubber stuff that GM uses. I have had this same stuff holding my cogged drive together now for nearly 9 years without any issues......at least not yet

I should have it back maybe tomorrow. But I can't confirm that because I advised my machine shop to not get in a hurry because I was still missing the cranks for the engines I am working on. Dumb move on my part

BlowerWorks

I have ATI make me 6 rib (6+6) LT1/LT4 Balancers: Their Super Damper. It is now part of my LT1/LT4 S/C Kit. Super Damper is nicer piece than GM original. My original LT1 Kits grooved the rear of the stock GM piece. Vortech followed suit when they introduced their LT1 kit a couple of years later.

Mo I found out it was Vortech who made your 7 rib (7+6) but it is my understanding they no longer make.

If I can get together an order for 10 Pieces ATI will make me/us an 8 rib (8+6) version. The extra two ribs would be towards the engine such that the 'front' 6 ribs stay in place for the OEM accessories. Of course the balancer is keyed resolving 'that' problem. Remember even though the stock balancer is not keyed your crank is !

Price is dependent on number of orders. I think if I can get 10 orders price would be under $400.

Regards - Greg C.
Ps - ProCharger runs off accessory belt (front 6 ribs) rerouted for Blower, i.e. this balancer NOT compatible with Accessible Technologies' kit for LT1's.

ztrips

Count me in on that one!!

Even if we don't get 10 people, I need a new crank pulley/damper anyway. And I'm going to need an 8 rib blower pulley to max out my impleller RPM...

tjwong

Greg I have a ATI 6+8 that was made for another Vendor and it was sold to me last year. I mocked it up on my spare LT1 engine and it didn't line up properly the problem was that it had to go back further into the engine and the opti was in the way I had another .120" to go back towards the engine before the front serpentine belt would have been back in the correct position to where the original pulley position was. It is a nice piece had it worked. And not to mention that it was very expensive. Do you happen to know if they can perhaps fix this fitment glitch?

BlowerWorks

TJ - I'm going to call you to discuss. Greg

ztrips

Must be nice to have a spare LT1....

qwiketz

Excellent info guys. In the long run I'd love to pirate a T trim head unit off my mustang sitting in the garage. That car's getting a XX trim. Until the belt issue gets resolved, I can't imagine going to anything more radical due to belt slip.

tjwong

I know Its my original engine that came out of my 95 coupe when I installed the present blower engine that is in the car now. But I can tell you that its nice to have around because I can mock up my experimental parts on it to make sure things fit long before I go to the expense of ripping parts out of the engine bay. I know it will work before I go through all the trouble of installing parts

ztrips

Any chance on you mocking up one of those cool vortech blower mounts that allow you to change belts and then shipping it to me?

tjwong

I am working on that as well In fact I have a preliminary designed bracket now and I am working on idler pulley sizes and trying to find a cheap source for some billet pulleys rather than making them and assembling them myself. The ones I have now has double bearings in them, meaning that I have a pair of 6032RS (if I remember right) bearings pressed into the pulley for double support. These will run at high RPMs without any problems and are 2" OD. I am experimenting around trying to find the ideal size to minimize belt selection and to provide lots of belt wrap so to minimize any dreaded belt slippage or cure it completely. I know with high boost its hard to eliminate slippage but with what I got now the belt goes around more than 2/3rds of the blower pulley. Its hard to describe but maybe easier if I post a picture of it later after the holidays.

ztrips

Sweet. Let me know if you need someone to test on another LT1

qwiketz

I've noticed that there's two different sizes for the dampers, approx 6.75 and 7.5". Make sure that if you guys do make a damper, it's as big as possible in diameter. This is pretty much a given, but I figured I'd mention it.

ztrips

Any update on pics of these mounts?

Thanks.

qwiketz

alot of the mustang guys state that tension is really important. I think many of them are going 100lbs for normal driving, and upwards of 140lbs at the track. Just something to check.

any updates on the crank pullies...

Mo_Bandy

Interesting info, just as a note, the LT1's are a 7 inch pulley. You would need to watch your S/C impeller speed if you go to a larger crank pulley especially if you are exceeding 6000 rpm with a 3.125 pulley... just a thought...

mo

ztrips

I thought you could push an S trim with a 7 inch crank, 3 inch blower pully to 6k? What's the max impeller speed?

Mo_Bandy

hey zstrips!

the max for the v1/v2 s trim is 50,000 sc trim is 53,000

max efficient is 45,000 50,000 respectively.

If you go with a 7.5 crank pulley and a 3.125 s/c pulley you are at 49,680 at 6000 rpm...

7 inch crank pulley with a 3.125 at 6500 puts you a 50,232

Thus the reason for me pointing this out...

Mo

qwiketz

Don't worry too much about grenading your s trim. I know guys that regularly spin theirs to 55k+. The reason that I would like to see a big crank is because not only will it cure belt slip, but it will also allow you to run a decent size pulley with a t, ys, or ysi trim, all of which have higher max rpm limits.