2vettboy

Hello

My 92, manual transmission, ignition switch is stuck in the lock position. It will turn to start and back to run but i cannot properly press the lock release and turn the witch back to off. The only way for me to shutdown the car is to stall it in 6th gear then disconnect the battery. Does anyone have any suggestions on repair preferrably without removing the sterring column and replacing the switch.

Thanks

WVZR-1

You can "flood" the cylinder with contact cleaner and while depressing the button try to work the key cw & ccw but it is usually not successful. Sometimes yes. Worth an effort? Always.

I believe with an M6 you've got some options. If you're not concerned with the VATS protection you can bypass that aspect with a resistor at the base of the column and use just a base lock cylinder with "NO RESISTOR" or you can use a correct lock cylinder which will mean a the purchase also of as many keys as you want. The mechanical cut of the replacement cylinder will be different and you'll need to use that mechanical cut done on blanks with the proper resistance. Your present keys will be worthless.

The other very unlikely fix could be the ignition switch but that is very, very, very unlikely OR the nylon pinion gear on the end of the lock cylinder and the rack could possibly have failed. Regardless you'll need to go into the column.

The least expensive would be the bypass and a base Saginaw replacement. They generally come with 2 keys.

Make sure that if you want to maintain the VATS and a correct cylinder you tell them you have an M6. That is frequently overlooked by some.

2vettboy

Thanks, it will be a couple of weeks before I get to this, but it will look at getting a replacement, without vats, to try.

WVZR-1

You need to do the resistance by-pass for that choice to work. I'm guessing you understand the insertion of the correct resistance into the system at the connector located at the base of the column.

Using a GM # 7840574 would interchange at most of the local auto parts stores and would give you a cylinder that should work with "black" thumb/finger bezel and 2 keys.

** I seem to recall that maybe the VATS was an 1/8" longer and if that's the case then the cylinder change isn't going to work. Have an auto parts store put the cylinders side by side to compare but I looked at a very early column and I believe the lock housing is different so that would make this a "no go". Don't do an Internet buy - compare locally.

You won't need to remove the column to do the repair. It can be done in the car.