92 ignition switch problems
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Whitby Ontario
92 ignition switch problems
Hello
My 92, manual transmission, ignition switch is stuck in the lock position. It will turn to start and back to run but i cannot properly press the lock release and turn the witch back to off. The only way for me to shutdown the car is to stall it in 6th gear then disconnect the battery. Does anyone have any suggestions on repair preferrably without removing the sterring column and replacing the switch.
Thanks
My 92, manual transmission, ignition switch is stuck in the lock position. It will turn to start and back to run but i cannot properly press the lock release and turn the witch back to off. The only way for me to shutdown the car is to stall it in 6th gear then disconnect the battery. Does anyone have any suggestions on repair preferrably without removing the sterring column and replacing the switch.
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
Hello
My 92, manual transmission, ignition switch is stuck in the lock position. It will turn to start and back to run but i cannot properly press the lock release and turn the witch back to off. The only way for me to shutdown the car is to stall it in 6th gear then disconnect the battery. Does anyone have any suggestions on repair preferrably without removing the sterring column and replacing the switch.
Thanks
My 92, manual transmission, ignition switch is stuck in the lock position. It will turn to start and back to run but i cannot properly press the lock release and turn the witch back to off. The only way for me to shutdown the car is to stall it in 6th gear then disconnect the battery. Does anyone have any suggestions on repair preferrably without removing the sterring column and replacing the switch.
Thanks
I believe with an M6 you've got some options. If you're not concerned with the VATS protection you can bypass that aspect with a resistor at the base of the column and use just a base lock cylinder with "NO RESISTOR" or you can use a correct lock cylinder which will mean a the purchase also of as many keys as you want. The mechanical cut of the replacement cylinder will be different and you'll need to use that mechanical cut done on blanks with the proper resistance. Your present keys will be worthless.
The other very unlikely fix could be the ignition switch but that is very, very, very unlikely OR the nylon pinion gear on the end of the lock cylinder and the rack could possibly have failed. Regardless you'll need to go into the column.
The least expensive would be the bypass and a base Saginaw replacement. They generally come with 2 keys.
Make sure that if you want to maintain the VATS and a correct cylinder you tell them you have an M6. That is frequently overlooked by some.
Thread Starter
5th Gear
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Whitby Ontario
Thanks for the suggestion
You can "flood" the cylinder with contact cleaner and while depressing the button try to work the key cw & ccw but it is usually not successful. Sometimes yes. Worth an effort? Always.
I believe with an M6 you've got some options. If you're not concerned with the VATS protection you can bypass that aspect with a resistor at the base of the column and use just a base lock cylinder with "NO RESISTOR" or you can use a correct lock cylinder which will mean a the purchase also of as many keys as you want. The mechanical cut of the replacement cylinder will be different and you'll need to use that mechanical cut done on blanks with the proper resistance. Your present keys will be worthless.
The other very unlikely fix could be the ignition switch but that is very, very, very unlikely OR the nylon pinion gear on the end of the lock cylinder and the rack could possibly have failed. Regardless you'll need to go into the column.
The least expensive would be the bypass and a base Saginaw replacement. They generally come with 2 keys.
Make sure that if you want to maintain the VATS and a correct cylinder you tell them you have an M6. That is frequently overlooked by some.
I believe with an M6 you've got some options. If you're not concerned with the VATS protection you can bypass that aspect with a resistor at the base of the column and use just a base lock cylinder with "NO RESISTOR" or you can use a correct lock cylinder which will mean a the purchase also of as many keys as you want. The mechanical cut of the replacement cylinder will be different and you'll need to use that mechanical cut done on blanks with the proper resistance. Your present keys will be worthless.
The other very unlikely fix could be the ignition switch but that is very, very, very unlikely OR the nylon pinion gear on the end of the lock cylinder and the rack could possibly have failed. Regardless you'll need to go into the column.
The least expensive would be the bypass and a base Saginaw replacement. They generally come with 2 keys.
Make sure that if you want to maintain the VATS and a correct cylinder you tell them you have an M6. That is frequently overlooked by some.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,393
Likes: 2,741
Using a GM # 7840574 would interchange at most of the local auto parts stores and would give you a cylinder that should work with "black" thumb/finger bezel and 2 keys.
** I seem to recall that maybe the VATS was an 1/8" longer and if that's the case then the cylinder change isn't going to work. Have an auto parts store put the cylinders side by side to compare but I looked at a very early column and I believe the lock housing is different so that would make this a "no go". Don't do an Internet buy - compare locally.
You won't need to remove the column to do the repair. It can be done in the car.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Aug 19, 2014 at 01:05 PM.
