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Hi all just wanted some advise:
I just got my hand on a 1991 - L98 - 6-Speed Manual - coupe with almost 68k miles.
any general advise on this one? is it a good choice you think? and how to match the engine to know if it is the original factory one?
and for future modifications what do you advise?
Any feed back is highly appreciated to help make up my mind.
The number will be stamped on the engine block in front of the right head. An optional location was on the left side just behind the oil filter. It's a partial I.D. number with nine positions, no.1 is GM division should be a 1 for Chevrolet, no.2 for a 1991 should be an M ( for 1991), no3 will be 5 for Bowling Green,Ky. no. 4-9 should match your serial number.
Check the RPO codes. If it has the G44 option (3.07)gears the HP will be a bit higher, and in my opinion if the engine is running right, it's a good combination and doesn't need mods. (I'm old and don't race any more)
Others on the forum will help with the mods. I'm sure.
Glad to have you on the forum and good luck.
In '91 your rear axle ratio with an M6 is sometimes debated and needs confirmed. There's likely a label on your console door. Referenced here on the CF as a "SPID LABEL" and you can interpret your RPO information for yourself.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Some of the 90 and 91 Corvettes had a tachometer that read way too low. There is a fix for that. Google and the stickies here are your friend.
Read this old post and the many more out there. As Vader says: forget about the airfoil:https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-1990-l98.html
Last edited by corvetteronw; 12-09-2016 at 10:11 PM.
Thanks all for the info I really appreciate it. And sorry for not posting pics yet I wasn't sure if I'll buy it or not but I'll post some soon - promise
its black on black with some body kits. And a good price.
The console door has no label on it. But the car comes with the ride selection (normal, sport, performance) it looks it need some work here and there but the engine sound awesome!!
As for the axle gear what's the other easy way to confirm the size beside the code (if it was charged)?
and another favor, where I can fine the RPO codes? thx again
Ok I got the car inspected, following are the findings:
- full paint job is required (peeling and blisters)
- AC & blower needs repair (no cold air)
- wiper jet hose leaking
- headlight LHS not working
- engine oil pan gasket leaking
- steering column universal joint is loose
- front brake lock clip missing
- front left upper arm ball joint needs to replace
- all 4 wheel bearing needs replace
- alignment required as car sway
- wheel vibrates over 60
Overall engine and the manual gear shifting are in good condition. Giving the above what's your feedback are these serious issues that could be a deal breaker. And how much I can negotiate for the price.
What could be the asking price for such vette with above condition.
I really appreciate your advise and feedback as I want to decide on it.
I am assuming that the car is located overseas, which will make pricing difficult. If the car was stateside the repairs needed could cost almost as much as the car is worth. Figure on at least $5k for a decent paintjob, $1-2k for the suspension and steering issues, $500+ in weatherstriping, etc. That looks/sounds like a car that was run hard and put away wet, with little done in the way of repairs as things broke. All of that stuff does not fail at once, so the PO let some stuff go. If you can do the work yourself and want a project I would be in the $2-3k range, but as I said before that would be in the US.
Thanks Parsgarage for the reply. And yes the car is overseas, actually it's Japan imported. But if I closed the deal I'll be getting the spare parts from the states. I want it to be a project to work on as I can and eventually get it close to showroom condition as possible. Then add some mods. But for the wheels bearings? Ball joints and suspension parts which is a priority and I guess this is what's make it unstable if I get the parts from the states all as a set would cost around 2k?
And what about the steering wheel universal joint Beeing loose can it be fixed or need to be replaced from your experience?
I really appreciate your feedback guys and thanks 🙏🏻.
Thanks Parsgarage for the reply. And yes the car is overseas, actually it's Japan imported. But if I closed the deal I'll be getting the spare parts from the states. I want it to be a project to work on as I can and eventually get it close to showroom condition as possible. Then add some mods. But for the wheels bearings? Ball joints and suspension parts which is a priority and I guess this is what's make it unstable if I get the parts from the states all as a set would cost around 2k?
And what about the steering wheel universal joint Beeing loose can it be fixed or need to be replaced from your experience?
I really appreciate your feedback guys and thanks 🙏🏻.
The wheel bearings cost between $100-350 each depending on what brand you buy. I really doubt only one ball joint went bad, I would replace them all at around $20-50 each. The suspension bushings are probably near the end of their lifespan, so that is another $200 or so in parts. These prices do not include labor, so you can see how it can get very expensive very quickly. I am not sure about the steering issue, might be an easy fix, might be a big job. If you are shipping a car from Japan, it might make more sense in the long run to find one in the US that does not have so many needs and have it shipped to you. The initial buy in would be greater, but $7-10k buys you a very clean C4 over here. Good luck !
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Those NACA hood scoops look like the ones that were installed by Callaway Corvettes under the factory B2K twin turbocharged option. Are there twin intercoolers under the hood like this?
Let us know as a B2K is worth a lot more that a stock L98 car. One of the Callaway factory reps is a member here and can help you out if it is indeed a B2K.
Those NACA hood scoops look like the ones that were installed by Callaway Corvettes under the factory B2K twin turbocharged option. Are there twin intercoolers under the hood like this?
Let us know as a B2K is worth a lot more that a stock L98 car. One of the Callaway factory reps is a member here and can help you out if it is indeed a B2K.
That naca duct only belongs on 87 b2ks, the one pictured here is much smaller than the real ones Callaway used. The 91s had blister scoops.
That will be an expensive project. A nice paint job will cost I believe at least $7k unless you have a hookup/friend. But if you're just going to mod it and race and beat it up I wouldnt even paint it
Anyway, just to give you pricing on weatherstripping which the car will need: $100 per section or $550 for the whole kit! Yup, thats the price for the Wilcox ws kit which according to my search on here guys say is the best after OEM (which isn't available anymore). Used to be like $380
There are many many C4s in the US w/ great looking paint. Spend the $ and time on performance mods
Thanks all for the feedback and advise I decided not to go with it... too much to do and a lot $$$ involved. I'll be on the look out for another better condition c4. Will keep you posted.
Thanks all again
12-09-2016, 11:21 AM
1991 Vette Enquiery
