enventr

I replaced the oil pan gasket 2 times and I still have a tiny quarter size drop every night.The leak is in the front of the pan.It is not bad but I'm a stickler for oil leaks.They do not suggest to use permatex but if I do this again I think I just may coat everything with rtv or permatex any suggestions?

(95 LT1)

JAKE

Are you using the correct pan gasket?

How about the correct bolt/nut torque procedure?

No oil on the block or pan rails, right?

Pan gasket properly indexed in the T/C cover, right?

No chance the pan is tweaked is there? Bent along the mounting flanges.

Are you using the pan reinforcing strips? Someone posted that everytime he uses them his pan leaks. I'm using them on the 388 I just built and mine's not leaking. Go figure.

I installed my one piece pan gasket dry after using brake cleaner to remove all traces of oil from the block and pan. No sealant anywhere. The instructions that came with the gasket said NO Sealant, so I followed that instruction.

There's got to be a reason this continues to occur.

(96 LT1)

Jake

enventr

I will have to check the pan to see if it is bent-it leaks by the T/C and gasket was put on correct in that area.Do you think I should use RTV along with the one piece gasket.This job is a pita. It will be hard to see if the pan is slightly out of shape.Thanks for your info-after you finished did you start immediately driving the car or did you let it sit for awhile

JAKE

Well, I built the engine on an engine stand. I buttoned up the oil pan, then installed the heads, valvetrain, primed the engine, etc.

Then I had to pull the stock engine and install the new one, and hook everything back up. I had to wait for a few ordered parts to arrive, too, So I guess it sat for a two to three weeks from the time I installed the pan before the engine actually fired.

Many times you can actually see a bend in the pan. Other times you can use a straight-edge. Set the pan on a flat surface and see if it rocks or if there is any gap.

Jake

JAKE

You will probably get differing views, but the instructions that came with my gasket said in BIG BOLD LETTERS, not to use any sealant.

I didn't use any and I recommend you follow whatever your instructions say.

Jake

aboatguy

Somewhere in the instructions on my last build said to use sealer at the ends where the gasket transitions from block to the rear seal surface and the timing cover at the front. I used an inch or so of the right stuff in those areas and voila no leaks.


I've used/use the Fel Pro CS9966/and the right stuff on all of my LT1 build an have never had an oil leak.

JAKE

One thing I learned many years ago is NOT to sit the engine on it's oil pan. The weight can compress the gasket which will cause the bolts to be slightly loose and a leak can result.

Keep the engine's weight off the pan.

Jake

Terrible Juan

If I may interrupt and change the subject slightly. The pan looks very easy to remove while its on the car. Is there anything needed besides jacking it up and having nice access to all the bolts?

JAKE

No really. If your car has the two diagonal braces you'll have to swivel them out of the way in order for the pan to drop. I remove the two in the center of the chassis, then just loosen the two outboard bolts (I leave them attached though) and just swivel the braces for the needed clearance.

Some guys report they to sometimes bump over the engine in order for the crank to clear. I've never had to do that though; my pan always came right off.

I need to use a swivel for my socket/extension/ratchet to get to the very front-most nut, passenger side.

Jake

jimg's'93

My gasket also said not to use sealant, so I didn't and my pan leaked. I then followed the directions in the FSM and she's dry as a popcorn fart. The directions call for 1" of sealant at each of the radius cavities.

Greg Gore

If the leak is originating from the pan it is most likely the corners. You should apply a small bead of RTV in each corner only. The pan is difficult to wiggle in place and get a couple bolts started without disturbing the gasket and smearing RTV with the engine in the car. I made four small retainers to hold the gasket to the block while fishing the pan in place. It is essential that the pan rails are straight and the strengthening rails are installed. It is also necessary that the surfaces are clean and dry before applying the RTV. Also, do you know for sure that your leak is not the front c/shaft seal or the waterpump drive shaft seal? The damper hub and waterpump driveshaft will usually have wear grooves in them with high miles that will leak oil.

96GS#007

enventr

I had replaced all of the seals and water pump and new hub-it seems to be dry in that area.It does leak by the front of pan (t/c cover area).I will check that area again-thanks