C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Steel vs Aluminum flywheel, here is what Mcleod says

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Old 04-04-2008, 03:37 PM
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DVNCI
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Default Steel vs Aluminum flywheel, here is what Mcleod says

There is a thread over in the ZR1 section about this but I was browsing the Mcleod website today and saw this, this subject seems to come up from time to time:



FLYWHEELS

Q. Should I use an aluminum or steel flywheel?

A. Aluminum flywheels with their lighter weight, are typically used in oval track and road race applications and are also popular in high horsepower, light-weight drag cars. These vehicles rely on engine horsepower to drive the wheels. Steel flywheels are used when additional engine torque is required for performance. A heavier flywheel can help acceleration from a standing start and add power up through shifting. These are characteristics needed in street, most drag race and other high-torque applications.

Q. Which Flywheel should I use on the street, steel or aluminum?

A. Most of the time, we recommend a steel flywheel rather then aluminum, because the weight of the steel flywheel helps move the car from a stop light and it also dampens the impulse of the engine, making a smoother idle. The aluminum flywheel is good for racing, when engine braking and hard acceleration out of a turn is desirable.



I thought this was pretty good info, and confirms the reasons I went with steel!

Old 04-04-2008, 03:55 PM
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interesting
Old 04-04-2008, 03:56 PM
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black_89_vette
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I went with steel!
Old 04-04-2008, 05:58 PM
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0Paul Ruggeri
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I'm happy with the Fidanza aluminum one I have in my car. Its easier to match revs when heal and toeing and the car accelerates quicker. Besides, there's no lack of low end torque with an L98.

Paul
Old 04-04-2008, 08:58 PM
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Zix
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Just like the question "which shifter is better?" this is also more of a matter of personal taste then anything else. Is a steel FW a little easier to drive...yes, is an aluminum FW hard to drive...not at all.

I have been driving my daily driver with an aluminum FW for over 6 years now and would never go back to an iron or steel FW. But that's just my preference.
Old 04-04-2008, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Zix


Just like the question "which shifter is better?" this is also more of a matter of personal taste then anything else. Is a steel FW a little easier to drive...yes, is an aluminum FW hard to drive...not at all.

I have been driving my daily driver with an aluminum FW for over 6 years now and would never go back to an iron or steel FW. But that's just my preference.

Agreed, but my intention is not to CONVINCE you or anyone so you are reading it wrong.

I ran across the info, thought someone would find it useful, and posted.
Old 04-04-2008, 10:51 PM
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88BlackZ-51
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That's the same info I have received as well.
Old 04-04-2008, 11:02 PM
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JLeatherman
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That's what I've always heard. I feel that heavier flywheels help smooth shifts. I went with a 35# forged steel flywheel over my 17# stock one and I was definitely happier with the results. It also helps smooth the idle a bit from my lumpy cam.
Old 04-04-2008, 11:02 PM
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Zix
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Originally Posted by RUKWKR
Agreed, but my intention is not to CONVINCE you or anyone so you are reading it wrong.

I ran across the info, thought someone would find it useful, and posted.
Nothing against you at all, I hope you didn't take it that way (if so I apologize for that). I've just seen this topic come up a LOT!
Old 04-04-2008, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JLeatherman
That's what I've always heard. I feel that heavier flywheels help smooth shifts. I went with a 35# forged steel flywheel over my 17# stock one and I was definitely happier with the results. It also helps smooth the idle a bit from my lumpy cam.
I can't remember exactly but I "think" the steel one that came with my Mcleod clutch kit is 22 lbs. Might be a little heavier but I'm pretty sure it's not ligther. I've got a thumper of a cam as well.
Old 04-04-2008, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Zix
Nothing against you at all, I hope you didn't take it that way (if so I apologize for that). I've just seen this topic come up a LOT!
Hey no worries. I should have paid more attention to the cheers. Probably didn't word that well.

That's why I stated it right away that I know it comes up a lot. I just hadn't seen it presented straight from the horse's mouth before (not the dead one you show above )
Old 04-05-2008, 07:59 AM
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RUKWKR

When I was at the flywheel stage of the project, the tech rep at Mcloed indicated that with the steel flywheel the trans wouldn't rattle as bad. I don't know if that is total truth or not but mine at an idle doesn't make much noise at all, but I haven't gone for a ride to get the trans good and warm yet.

Also good luck with installing and bleeding the new master cyl. It took a while.

Ron
Old 04-05-2008, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 2bar-c4
RUKWKR

When I was at the flywheel stage of the project, the tech rep at Mcloed indicated that with the steel flywheel the trans wouldn't rattle as bad. I don't know if that is total truth or not but mine at an idle doesn't make much noise at all, but I haven't gone for a ride to get the trans good and warm yet.

Also good luck with installing and bleeding the new master cyl. It took a while.

Ron
Yeah I have actually had my clutch in a while now, I get a little rattle sometimes but not too bad.
Old 04-05-2008, 10:38 AM
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I would have to agree that you probably don't need an aluminum flywheel for the street. On the other hand at the track it's the best thing I ever did to the car.

I'm running a modified L98 with tons of torque so there's little downside. It might be different with an LT1.

It's really not all that bad on the street. On the other hand I'm not sure I would recommend it for cruise night Corvettes. Then again most of those folks run the automatics so the question just doesn't matter for them.

Richard Newton

101 Projects for Your Corvette 1984-1996

How to Restore and Modify Your Corvette, 1968-1982


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