Steering Rack Fluid Line Disconnect Problem
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Steering Rack Fluid Line Disconnect Problem
Im taking the steering rack out of my car. The flare nuts for the fluid lines on the rack wont come loose. Im using a flare wrench, but the wrench slips on the nut. The lines where broke losse 13 years ago when I had the rack bushings changed to urethane by a shop. I hope they didnt use some form of locktite, as they seems too tight
Any advice before I resort to cutting the lines?
Whats the best source for new lines? Looks like chevy dealer, a rarity, or custom hose outfit.
Any advice before I resort to cutting the lines?
Whats the best source for new lines? Looks like chevy dealer, a rarity, or custom hose outfit.
#2
Race Director
Use vice grips on the flarenut. It will usually loosen the nut. You shouldn't have to cut the line.
#3
Race Director
Mike, I changed the rack on mine this spring. It had morning sickness symptoms. I'm not sure if our setups are the same but what I did was remove the rack and work on it on my bench. It was much easier that way. I removed the lines at the pump, pulled that, then the rack.
I made my own lines using parts of the stock lines, to run a cooler. Mine didn't have one.
I have a new pressure line if you want it, it came with my rebuilt rack. They are pretty inexpensive though so it might not be worth the cost of shipping.
I made my own lines using parts of the stock lines, to run a cooler. Mine didn't have one.
I have a new pressure line if you want it, it came with my rebuilt rack. They are pretty inexpensive though so it might not be worth the cost of shipping.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Mike, I changed the rack on mine this spring. It had morning sickness symptoms. I'm not sure if our setups are the same but what I did was remove the rack and work on it on my bench. It was much easier that way. I removed the lines at the pump, pulled that, then the rack.
I made my own lines using parts of the stock lines, to run a cooler. Mine didn't have one.
I have a new pressure line if you want it, it came with my rebuilt rack. They are pretty inexpensive though so it might not be worth the cost of shipping.
I made my own lines using parts of the stock lines, to run a cooler. Mine didn't have one.
I have a new pressure line if you want it, it came with my rebuilt rack. They are pretty inexpensive though so it might not be worth the cost of shipping.
I saw the lines connected at the pump, Ill investigate that option too. Maybe take the pump out if it looks like it will come out easily.
Im changing my rack to the quick ratio. Didnt you recently change out your quick ratio?
Thanks guys, especially the hose offer.
#5
Race Director
I was thinking about that too, but I didnt want to ruin the nuts. A last resort before cutting the lines.
I didnt think the rack could come out with the lines connected to it. The lines hit the frame, but Ill check that again tonight.
I saw the lines connected at the pump, Ill investigate that option too. Maybe take the pump out if it looks like it will come out easily.
Im changing my rack to the quick ratio. Didnt you recently change out your quick ratio?
Thanks guys, especially the hose offer.
I didnt think the rack could come out with the lines connected to it. The lines hit the frame, but Ill check that again tonight.
I saw the lines connected at the pump, Ill investigate that option too. Maybe take the pump out if it looks like it will come out easily.
Im changing my rack to the quick ratio. Didnt you recently change out your quick ratio?
Thanks guys, especially the hose offer.
#8
Race Director
One thing you might want to do before vice gripping the nut is to put a vice grip around the flarenut wrench if you have room. This can keep the wrench from spreading and might make a difference.
#9
Melting Slicks
been there, done that, have the bloody knuckles to prove it.
took a long bar, braced it against the flare nut, wrapped it several times with a large hammer. nut unscrewed without further problem.
when you install it next time, use a liberal amount of anti seize; other wise the nut is sure to seize again.
took a long bar, braced it against the flare nut, wrapped it several times with a large hammer. nut unscrewed without further problem.
when you install it next time, use a liberal amount of anti seize; other wise the nut is sure to seize again.
#10
Race Director
I'll be curious of your impressions with the different ratio. I believe they are 15.5:1 (2.36 turns lock to lock) and 13.0:1 (1.96 turns lock to lock). My car is an '88 Z52, I have the stock rack sitting here. Turning the shaft with a crescent wrench it looks to be just about two turns, I'd say 1.9 by eyeball. I got a rebuilt rack from the for sale section, extra parts someone was selling that they had for their track car. It has a poly bushing, and normal ratio. Eyeballing it the total turns looked like 2.25 to me. I decided to use the different ratio because I figured I wouldn't be able to tell the difference since there isn't much of one.
I've read posts about people loving the fast rack but I haven't been able to tell the difference yet. I've also heard about some road track people going to the slower ratio for better steering too.
I've read posts about people loving the fast rack but I haven't been able to tell the difference yet. I've also heard about some road track people going to the slower ratio for better steering too.
#11
Drifting
I used an 18mm crows foot and a really long (24") extension. It worked for me, good luck to you.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the suggestions. None worked so I bend the lines down so they could get past the frame and then cut the high pressure hose. It took a few seconds with a brass rod and hammer. Once out and on the floor, it took large vise grips and considerable force to get the fittings loose. No way they would have come out in the car.
Luckily the other half of the high pressure hose fitting at the pump came right off, even though the wrench had to go through the pulley.
Napa said they have replacement hoses.
The steering rack has to come out because my front cover/crack seal needs replacing. Oil is coming from the inside of the damper and dripping down. New engine with old seal from crate engine equals failed seal. Compliments of my engine builder.
Since I have the rack out, Ill be trying the quick ratio steering rack, but Ill keep the old in case I dont like it.
Luckily the other half of the high pressure hose fitting at the pump came right off, even though the wrench had to go through the pulley.
Napa said they have replacement hoses.
The steering rack has to come out because my front cover/crack seal needs replacing. Oil is coming from the inside of the damper and dripping down. New engine with old seal from crate engine equals failed seal. Compliments of my engine builder.
Since I have the rack out, Ill be trying the quick ratio steering rack, but Ill keep the old in case I dont like it.
#13
Race Director
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter